Air Conditioner Failure

[daustin]

The reason is very simple. There is almost no difference execpt that new vehichles that came equipped with R134 also have more "effiecient" compressors. Basically they put smaller compressors on to save gas hp etc. Most nowadays come with those little sandens which are mostly 6 cfm. You go old school on an early 6.2 with the Gi-goondo Harrison and that sucker pumps 10 cfm. When you kick on the a/c proably lose 20 hp but damn does it cool. I have argued to many that converting an r12 system will not make is cool less. The only thing I have seen with conversions is on low rpm diesels some get very slight less cooling at idle.
My old R Model had a/c in the cab but nothing else(new cab) so I did that system from scratch. I used an over sized condensor and a 10 cfm York compressor. On a 95+ degree day that thing would frost the windows. I had optimum 39 degrees out the duct. That is as cold as you can go without freeze up.

Aces is 100% on target with that, i got a new AC Delco compressor for my '93 it's bigger than the ones they use now and aside from a long idle on the 6.5being a little warmer it cools great. I got in the routine that when a compresor goes, i just re-work the whole system and it lasts a lot longer that way. Usually replace everything except the Evaporator and Condensor and don't touch it for 6-8 years afterward. :thumbsup:
Don

 

[OregonHorseTug]

Compressor clutch fixable?

Just to milk this thread a bit more, can you pull the AC compressor clutch apart and clean & lube it? I'm pretty sure I can get it off.

The clutch on my AC compressor seems to be holding fine now that I have a good charge in the system. Trouble is I have to tap it with a screwdriver handle to get it to pull in. When the system cycles off, it won't come back on untill I tap the clutch face with something. Just a light tap does it, almost like it either isnt' getting full voltage or it's gummed up. So, I though I'd pull it apart, clean it, and put it back on. Is that do-able?

Got the vent temp down to about 8-10*C today on the third can. I just can't reach around to thump the compressor clutch when I'm rolling down the road.:nonod:

 

[Acesneights1]

I did run into that one time and was able to get it loose but it could also be a weak magnetic coil. Either case A/C is wayyy too important to my fat a$$ so I would just replace it.

 

[ghitch75]

The reason is very simple. There is almost no difference execpt that new vehichles that came equipped with R134 also have more "effiecient" compressors. Basically they put smaller compressors on to save gas hp etc. Most nowadays come with those little sandens which are mostly 6 cfm. You go old school on an early 6.2 with the Gi-goondo Harrison and that sucker pumps 10 cfm. When you kick on the a/c proably lose 20 hp but damn does it cool. I have argued to many that converting an r12 system will not make is cool less. The only thing I have seen with conversions is on low rpm diesels some get very slight less cooling at idle.
My old R Model had a/c in the cab but nothing else(new cab) so I did that system from scratch. I used an over sized condensor and a 10 cfm York compressor. On a 95+ degree day that thing would frost the windows. I had optimum 39 degrees out the duct. That is as cold as you can go without freeze up.

put in a low pressure switch that kicks out at 15psi and you'll get 32f to 34f without freeze up.......all older refer's and freezers used psi switch to control temp......pressure = temp in the freon world....and yes to over size compressors(not more efficient or smaller but a little more displacement and a little bigger cond. to lower head pressure....pulls less hp...13ser compressor the same hp as a 10ser just cond. is bigger to drop head to lower amp draw on electric compressors....R-410a units are another story) for R-134 because it's a p@ss poor freon!!!......not a big fan of newer freons.......another thing if you have a leak you shouldn't just recharge a low system with ANY of the new freons.....there are a blend and you don't know what part you lost....so what efficiency the freon had is now degraded do to higher or lower amount of witch either part is missin'......so for ideal charge you should empty and vac for low charge systems....