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Air Box Relocation

Years ago when I saw that Banks setup, the first thing that I thought of (I work part time in the marine industry) is a blower/collector box. I've never gone any further with this idea, but it seems to me that it would be a very inexpensive route to go if one wanted a true CAI by locating this under the bumper and snaking tubing up to the airbox. Take a look at the items in this link - give or take, they're about $10 - $20.

http://www.attwoodmarine.com/store/category/ventilation/vents

(Attwood is a manufacturer, not a retailer, by the way)
 
So what is the limiting factor with the K47 box? The inlet from atmosphere or the piping to the turbo. Or is the filter element itself limiting? I like that air doesn't have to change directions as much with the upfront mounting and it has a little smoother ram air affect.

The direction changes and flatness of inside the fender for direction change coming into stock K47 box is a big drag I would guess more so than size of inlet within reason.

It might not be as smooth looking but is there any way to make fit a "cobra head elbow" to help make the direction change between the filter and turbo flow easier.
 
Jorge6.5 said:
On the k47 air box, is the tube that comes out of the air box 4"?
Click to expand...

Yes it is, I have any type silicone fitting you can think of Elbows, Reducers, T clamps ect.
here it is in Black
90_reducer_black_picture.jpg


and Turbo Blankets T3 and T4

t3turbo.jpg
 
schiker said:
So what is the limiting factor with the K47 box? The inlet from atmosphere or the piping to the turbo. Or is the filter element itself limiting? I like that air doesn't have to change directions as much with the upfront mounting and it has a little smoother ram air affect.

The direction changes and flatness of inside the fender for direction change coming into stock K47 box is a big drag I would guess more so than size of inlet within reason.

It might not be as smooth looking but is there any way to make fit a "cobra head elbow" to help make the direction change between the filter and turbo flow easier.
Click to expand...

Thats why I moved the airbox better shot in and out
 
I figured it was 4" coming out of the box. I plan on cutting that 4" tube about 2" from the side of the box then put on a 4" 90 elbow and so on. Im keeping in stock location fro now.
 
After you get over the "cool" factor for this mod the reason GM kept the batteries up front will become clear in a couple years. "Cool" is not the proper way to describe this mod, uncomplicated, needed, etc. just not 'Cool'. My point here is to inform people of the trade off made to do this. Then you can decide for yourself if you really care about the downside or just shrug your shoulders when it happens. My point is simply to discuss the downside and in no way slam the mod in any way.

GM violated this batteries up front setup on the Duramax trucks perhaps because some got laid off or retired. Simply forgot the reason they kept both bats up front. The reason is batteries run cooler up front not in the furnace that gets hotter closer to the firewall esp. with the fan kicked in.

Batteries HATE heat! The passenger side battery in the Duramax, that is not in the very front, nearly always fails first. The hotter the climate the worse this effect is. Climate is hot enough you pay for batteries once and exchange them every 2-3 years under warranty. Towing with the 2008 Duramax cross country, not always in AZ heat, got me 88K and 1.5 years before the passenger side battery gave it up while the other one was still good. Heat from the fan cooked it not just AZ weather.

After all the windshield washer bottle located over the tire on the fender: I evaporate more fluid out of that than I actually use due to the heat! GM located this bottle further upfront on newer trucks.

Uncomplicated intake trading off some battery life. After what it took to put the HX40II in I would take the trade off and possibly relocate the batteries in the bed or elsewhere to run them cooler. (The wet battery in patch lasted me 2 years and the Optima 3 years in our heat. Of course failing in August's 110+ temps.)

The cooler your climate and the less you hear the fan run the less this trade off applies to you. I would recommend a turbo blanket in all cases to keep the radiated heat off the battery.
 
My drivers side battery is the one that leaks out the most, the passenger side one mounted up in the rear doesn't leak much at all. And I know for me I had to relocate teh battery to the rear to allow the coolant bottle to go in the middle. The 6.5 bottle wasn't high enough to fully burp out the DURAMAX. And there wasn't room enough for my air fiulter anywhere else.
 
I have already heard about this being an issue months ago.

There is battery insulation kits for batteries to protect it from the hot turbo heat.

I havent been using my truck much and summer is almost over so I'm waiting till next spring to get my battery insulated with a kit
 
WarWagon said:
After you get over the "cool" factor for this mod the reason GM kept the batteries up front will become clear in a couple years. "Cool" is not the proper way to describe this mod, uncomplicated, needed, etc. just not 'Cool'. My point here is to inform people of the trade off made to do this. Then you can decide for yourself if you really care about the downside or just shrug your shoulders when it happens. My point is simply to discuss the downside and in no way slam the mod in any way.

GM violated this batteries up front setup on the Duramax trucks perhaps because some got laid off or retired. Simply forgot the reason they kept both bats up front. The reason is batteries run cooler up front not in the furnace that gets hotter closer to the firewall esp. with the fan kicked in.

Batteries HATE heat! The passenger side battery in the Duramax, that is not in the very front, nearly always fails first. The hotter the climate the worse this effect is. Climate is hot enough you pay for batteries once and exchange them every 2-3 years under warranty. Towing with the 2008 Duramax cross country, not always in AZ heat, got me 88K and 1.5 years before the passenger side battery gave it up while the other one was still good. Heat from the fan cooked it not just AZ weather.

After all the windshield washer bottle located over the tire on the fender: I evaporate more fluid out of that than I actually use due to the heat! GM located this bottle further upfront on newer trucks.

Uncomplicated intake trading off some battery life. After what it took to put the HX40II in I would take the trade off and possibly relocate the batteries in the bed or elsewhere to run them cooler. (The wet battery in patch lasted me 2 years and the Optima 3 years in our heat. Of course failing in August's 110+ temps.)

The cooler your climate and the less you hear the fan run the less this trade off applies to you. I would recommend a turbo blanket in all cases to keep the radiated heat off the battery.
Click to expand...

This doesnt sound good for my 06 Dmax. Engine temps run a constant 220-240 (fan on-fan off) when towing and I do that for over 2hrs at times. Poor battery on the firewall has got to be pissed. I think frame rail or bed mounting batteries might be a good option for those worried about battery life.
 
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