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Ahhhh Crap

LOL!!!!!!!! WOW!!!! Talk about making an obscene invoice just to blow the guy off... they want nothing to do with your truck there....

Too funny... You should call and ask how much for the Bosch Platinum 4's....
 
I'm still trying to figure out where they go!!!!!! I replied saying even with their $11,200 new motor the truck would still only be worth $6000. :eek:
 
I put in a Kennedy reman, which had new castings, about 90k miles ago. It felt really weird putting a $5k engine in a $5k pickup at the time. But, after the years pass and the miles click by, it seems alright. Now if you do a new motor, and some jackbutt takes a fender to you the next day, you might be a bit sick, but you could still sell the motor? I see KD's reman has come down a bit... $5,399 minus and $800 core, that's not bad! Even after you spend another $1k on all the stuff going in and out. Good luck!!!
 
You should pull an oil sample to check for coolant in the oil. Coolant in the oil will kill your diesel faster than clunker bomb.

I think you are missing Matt Bachand's very specific advice to look at the coolant block off plate on the back of the heads. Imagine the thermostat housing bolted on the back of the engine!!! This plate is there because these heads can be used on either side of the engine. So Detroit Diesel used a block off plate rather than another crossover or a balance flow setup... To see this plate remove the glow plug controller and the driver's side is plain as day. This will help understand where the passenger side one is. There is a ground on mine between the trans dipstick and the plate...

Bill Heath quoted me $4700 for a balanced 6.5 with ceramic coated pistons and heads. ARP head studs and ARP main studs.

A built 6.2 is $3400 about same parts as above.

A cheap rebuilt 6.2 is $2550. ("6.2" is a conversion ready just drop on 6.5 manifolds and turbo.)

A tested good military surplus 6.5 is $1500 and a 6.2 is $950.

Most under the table mechanics will drop in and out an engine for $600.00 or less.

A $5.00 tube of RTV may fix it...
 
Thanks for the feed back guys, I can see the small leak at the seam between the head and the block. At this point the sealer is working to buy me some time. I will do a pressure test next week and determine if one or both need to be done. If just the driver's side I will do an in truck head gasket repair on that side. If both I will pull the motor and do both and anything else I feel needs doing.
 
The rear blockoff plate that is the opposite of the ones the front crossover bolts too, can leak. The LH one is under the glow plug controller.

These can seep and the results are a coolant leak that looks like a head gasket.

Bad heag gasket leaks on these are the ones that happen when the fire ring around the cylinder burns through and then you get compression into the cooling system.

The coolant tabs may fix the little leak.

I would snnop around ane be sure that its not that blockoff plate thats leaking.

If you do pull the head, I would recommend just using the stock type TTY bolts.

Be sure to keep the pushrods oriented as they come out. There is a copper color (sometimes hard to see) on the end that goes to the rockers.

The pushrods MUST be installed properly or failure of the rocker and the pushrod will result. Only one end of the pushrod has a hardened ball.

Be sure that you dont have any block errosion around the number 1 cylinder fire ring area too.

Use only the new style FELPRO gaskets that have the reinforced (metal area) around the front water passage in the head. (The block is solid here and the coolant lays agains the block and fire ring and over time causes errosion)

Good luck

MGW
 
Everyone seems to be missing a couple things. Pressure test the cooling system. There is also a dye that goes in the cooling system that is floresent. A black light will point you right at the leak. There is also high tech sniffers that can smell where the leak is.
With only 150,000 miles why is everyone so egar to put a new engine in? These can last to 400,000 miles or more possibly. Diagnose BEFORE repair.
I wouldn't reccomend replacing head gaskets in the truck because it is very difficult to get the block surface perfectly clean of the old gasket.Much easier to do the work properly when it's right in front of you on a stand rather than in a dark engine compartment.
Head studs can be put in with the engine in the truck. There is a couple on the passenger side that have to dangle from the head while setting in place. The rest can be put in after the head is on the block. IMHO the tty bolts are a very marginal fastener for the task. Bill Heath said they are the cause of MOST head gasket failures. They don't retain the torque value under heat and vibration.
 
Thanks Missy, I could lay underneath the truck and watch it leak from the head gasket. Very slowly until system depressured. The GM tabs work almost instantly, not a drop since I added them and gave it a good warm up drive.

Wish lived closer I would get you to build me a "Missy Special" :thumbsup:

I don't mined doing maintenance on my vehicles as a licensed mechanic, but I have been out of the trade for a lot of years now with no access to a shop with a hoist. I am getting to old to be rolling around on a creeper (which I have always hated) and crawling under a hood.

Why do you recommend stock head bolts over a ARP head bolt?
 
Thanks bk95td, I could see the leak and it is not leaking now. I will be pressure testing next week to see if the tabs worked. I will not trust this patch but it has saved my butt at the moment. I would really like to do it on an engine stand but I am so busy at work and my wife drives it daily. How long does it take to pull engine? I suspect pulling the rad, all accessories off the front, exhaust, motor mounts, torque convertor and bell housing bolts should just about do it!
 
Mudbath said:
How long does it take to pull engine? I suspect pulling the rad, all accessories off the front, exhaust, motor mounts, torque convertor and bell housing bolts should just about do it!
Click to expand...

Working two jobs and having your son help you, who is also working, should have it in and out in 3 weeks. Give or take shipping of mail order parts. Rent a car by the week as they give you free days like that. :thumbsup:

Wiring harnesses, fixing or removing the 2" of firewall insulation that makes bell housing bolts a PIA, oddball fix it stuff while it is out.
 
WarWagon said:
Working two jobs and having your son help you, who is also working, should have it in and out in 3 weeks. Give or take shipping of mail order parts. Rent a car by the week as they give you free days like that. :thumbsup:

Wiring harnesses, fixing or removing the 2" of firewall insulation that makes bell housing bolts a PIA, oddball fix it stuff while it is out.
Click to expand...

Sounds about right!:mad2:
 
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