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Advice on repairing wiring for glow plugs

T

TurboTahoe

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Hi guys!

Thanks for welcoming me back. I've been gone for awhile, and the two trucks in the sig have simply been soldiering along.

On the Tahoe, I need to do some repairs to the glow plug (GP) wiring. Reason is that the connectors connecting the fusible links to the connector on the GP has just worn out.

Couple of questions:

1) Where do you get those GM GP connectors? (i.e. the white plastic ones... they've lasted nearly 20 years, I might as well get the same ones...) or do you have better recommendations?
2) What is the current rating on the fusible link wiring?
3) What is the best method to splice the wiring... crimp connectors? solder and heat shrink tubing?

Thanks,

Rob :)
 
ak diesel driver said:
I'd suspect he could make a longer one to compensate for your lift.
Click to expand...

Thanks again for the lead. This definitely feels like the right solution... I just need to save up a bit. I just purchased a new Heath Remote FSD for the Suburban, and my pocketbook is still smarting.

I will definitely ask him to lengthen the wires a little bit to account for the lift.

Thanks again,

Rob :)
 
What he said, I wire boats for a living to a very high standard and can attest to the quality of Bruce's work. Simply put I could not of done it better myself.
 
Bruce's glow wire set anmd battery cables are awesome. My truck never used to start without block heater plugged in on wicked cold days. It starts on the coldest day without heat. It doesn't like it, but starts roughly anyway. Both wiring systems are worth the money like others said.
 
Best electrical upgrade I ever made has been the battery and glow plug wires from Raceday.
-9 here the other day and even with the block heater INOP, the motor still spun at 500rpm.
 
Thanks Guys, I really appreciate the compliments, This time of year Hard starting rears its Ugly head, I am glad my products work well for you
 
I wish I had known about the battery cables.... had to buy a new GM passenger to driver side cable about 2 months ago. I will definitely remember this for next time I need wiring for these old girls.
 
Yup, thanks. Great quality product. Driver side on, and functioning well, even with a cracked glow plug relay, due to the gorilla on the end of the stubby 1/4" ratchet. New relay waiting to get installed. Also changed DS GP's as the terminals had rotted off prematurely, guessing due to life as a plow truck, also didn't have the splash shields on the inner fenders. That is now corrected, as I traced out an old torn one and fabbed some new ones. I replaced Bosch duraterms with the same, the electrode was still in good shape, unlike the previous WAP junk that required the extraction tool!
 
Those glowplug harnesses look like a great value.... I bought some high temp silicone wire off ebay from china for $8 shipped, it took about 4weeks to get to me. And I got a set of stock style connectors for around $35 shipped to canada
http://www.pcsconnectors.com/20000012.aspx
.. I just needed to repair the turbo side wires where somone put regular wire and it melted through, and left the rest for now as they seem and test fine.
 
fastjohnny said:
Yup, thanks. Great quality product. Driver side on, and functioning well, even with a cracked glow plug relay, due to the gorilla on the end of the stubby 1/4" ratchet. New relay waiting to get installed. Also changed DS GP's as the terminals had rotted off prematurely, guessing due to life as a plow truck, also didn't have the splash shields on the inner fenders. That is now corrected, as I traced out an old torn one and fabbed some new ones. I replaced Bosch duraterms with the same, the electrode was still in good shape, unlike the previous WAP junk that required the extraction tool!
Click to expand...
i need to replace my splash guards. What material did you use?
 
reddog said:
i need to replace my splash guards. What material did you use?
Click to expand...

If you want to go the lazy route, try LMC. While LMC's parts went in place easy enough, I still had to trim them to fit around the upper arms and brake lines; also the push-in pins were a pain so I re-used the old ones.
 
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