Advice on electric fuel pump. Plating off block pump?

[Zacharynels]

I'm not sure if this is going into the right section of the forums or not.
If it is, feel free to tell me and I'll repost if need be. Anyhow, my mechanical pump and my little tiny 2" electric pump are both garbage. Fuel wont stay primed, diaphragm obviously bad in mechanical pump, allowing fuel to drain back down, which means after a few hours of not driving, the fuel lines aren't primed and the truck wont start for several minutes or sometimes at all. I am considering just bypassing the block pump all together because they are 35 bucks and seem to go bad more than they are working! I have never done this before, I am pretty new but have guys who can help.

Now, for now I am short on money and just need to get this thing running. So I want to elliminate the mechanical pump on the block all together. I was told you can just block off the hole that the pump bolts into. I don't know if this is true or not. Anyway, I was wondering if I can do that, the steps/process in doing so and how much it costs to do. Also if this pump will work for now until I get some finances straight.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_ELEC-FUEL-PUMP-DIESEL-Mr--Gasket_6340003-P_N3339K_P|GRP2030P____

 

[DieselCash]

You have your own section on this site, use it! :thumbsup:

I wish I could help but, I know nothing about the 7.3.

 

[Dave Barbieri]

...my mechanical pump and my little tiny 2" electric pump are both garbage. Fuel wont stay primed, diaphragm obviously bad in mechanical pump, allowing fuel to drain back down, which means after a few hours of not driving, the fuel lines aren't primed and the truck wont start for several minutes or sometimes at all.

Zach, if your lift pump diaphragm is bad, you'll have fuel leakage into your oil pan as the fuel drains back down thru the hole in the diaphragm, past the pump lever and into the oil pan. Check you oil level to see if it's rising. Chances are, you're losing your prime thru a leak in one of your flexible lines. Most usually, it's on the return side of the system. Check all your rubber lines REAL close. You'll know you're on to something when you start seeing wet areas on the hose. Wherever air leaks in, fuel can leak out.

My 85 F250 has 325K on the clock and has a leaking intake valve. Rather than just do a valve job and put good heads on a hi mileage block, I'm gonna do the whole rebuild thing. One of the upgrades will be an electric frame-mounted fuel pump. To provide power to it, I'll use a relay triggered by oil pressure. Several good choices out there; there are a bunch of threads over in the 6.5 Chevy section.

 

[D2 Cat]

Yes you can block off the mech. and use elec. pump. You can use the same plate used for a Chev 350. If I remember correctly I had to cut off part of the rectangular end. You just need the part with the holes in it. Most auto parts stores have the plate for $4-5 (chrome plated even).

As mentioned, if you leave the mech. pump there fuel will leak into you oil pan.

I mounted the pump down on the frame rail so it is pushing fuel not sucking it. This allows the pump to function much better. Find a switched, hot connection, use a fuse. Then when the switch is turned on the pump runs. It makes it real easy to bleed the system when you change fuel filter, run out of fuel, or do other injection work.

It did this on a 6.9---but not much difference.

 

[THECACKLER]

I thought it was a big block Chevy plate... like a 454..
Anyways, if the fuel leaks back when setting it's usually the injector return lines and most likely the o-rings under the caps. It can also be related to the fuel filter and header.