hookedup50
Well-Known Member
Replace them with SS braid ones from Leroy. The OEM ones will leak in no time and are failure prone, IMO not worth buying.
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Ac delco vs Napa harmonic balancer?
- Thread starter bdemutis
- Start date
Well I'm strapped on cash I just dumped new tires on it
hookedup50
Well-Known Member
Just put it on the list of more important parts to replace. When they fail, engine failure will result. Ask me how I know.
Or I'll just have to borrow some money to get them done for now also is there any good wright ups on doing them. The video on his website kinda confuses me because the engine isn't in a vehicle.
Also there's a few different options on his website for oil cooler lines.
Your crankshaft pulley rubber is done. I can't tell on the Harmonic Balancer that is behind it. The HB oil seal looks like it may be leaking. Oil cooler lines are leaking at the crimp due to bad GM design. Suggest aftermarket replacement from Leroy, but, replace ASAP!
Well that's bad news. I'm guessing I should do it all at once. do I need to remove the radiator or is there enough room once the fan is taken out of the way. Also the oil cooler lines do I need to remove the oil filter and filter housing to change them or can I get in there with good tools.
Usually I just pull the engine to change these. 
(Well I have the engine out for other reasons and do these at the same time.)
I have changed them with the fan etc. in place.
Manifold can stay on... Oil filter has to come off at a minimum. It's 1 huge bolt to get the leak prone adapter out of the way so make sure you have a new oring kit for it. Do not re-use an oil filter as the gasket will loosen it up on re-use and leak.
To get the lines off they have spring clips that can be pried out with a small screwdriver. Then the lines pop out. Putting OEM lines on put the lines in then put the clips back in as the clips go on easier with the lines in.
Have you removed the oil coolers and cleaned the condenser debris out from behind the oil coolers?
(Well I have the engine out for other reasons and do these at the same time.)I have changed them with the fan etc. in place.
Manifold can stay on... Oil filter has to come off at a minimum. It's 1 huge bolt to get the leak prone adapter out of the way so make sure you have a new oring kit for it. Do not re-use an oil filter as the gasket will loosen it up on re-use and leak.
To get the lines off they have spring clips that can be pried out with a small screwdriver. Then the lines pop out. Putting OEM lines on put the lines in then put the clips back in as the clips go on easier with the lines in.
Have you removed the oil coolers and cleaned the condenser debris out from behind the oil coolers?
No never took the front clip off i got the truck then it went straight to the body guy to fix the rust. Yea I don't feel like pulling a motor did that on my powerstroke wasn't fun. Well hopefully I can get in there without taking the oil filter off or the oil cooler housing.Usually I just pull the engine to change these.
I have changed them with the fan etc. in place.
Manifold can stay on... Oil filter has to come off at a minimum. It's 1 huge bolt to get the leak prone adapter out of the way so make sure you have a new oring kit for it. Do not re-use an oil filter as the gasket will loosen it up on re-use and leak.
To get the lines off they have spring clips that can be pried out with a small screwdriver. Then the lines pop out. Putting OEM lines on put the lines in then put the clips back in as the clips go on easier with the lines in.
Have you removed the oil coolers and cleaned the condenser debris out from behind the oil coolers?
Also leak prone adapter? should the lines come with o rings I thought they threaded into the side of the block.
Can I just start a build thread in the 6.5 diesel section instead of making new post because I'm sure I'm going to have questions for next week when I'm putting my new parts on lol.
I'm going to take the front clip off clean in between the cooler and rad.
What size wrenches are needed for the old cooler lines?
Can I leave the fan on to replace the balancer and pulley or should I just take it off?
What else should I do while I'm in there doing the lines and balancer?
I'm going to take the front clip off clean in between the cooler and rad.
What size wrenches are needed for the old cooler lines?
Can I leave the fan on to replace the balancer and pulley or should I just take it off?
What else should I do while I'm in there doing the lines and balancer?
The leak prone adapter is the 90 oil filter adapter - wait maybe you are doing the remote mount oil filter so this may be removed.
Do the front oil seal with the HB.
If you have the front clip off you may as well take the radiator to a shop and have it rodded out to get the dirt out of the "outside" fins. Any restriction is a cooling problem on these. You can use scrubbing bubbles on a couple sawhorses to hose the outside fins off if it doesn't need a rad shop..
Do the front oil seal with the HB.
If you have the front clip off you may as well take the radiator to a shop and have it rodded out to get the dirt out of the "outside" fins. Any restriction is a cooling problem on these. You can use scrubbing bubbles on a couple sawhorses to hose the outside fins off if it doesn't need a rad shop..
Remote mount oil filter? I was just going to keep the same oil adapter on there I don't have money to change anything else or to take it to a rad shop to be cleaned I'm assuming there just going to use a power washer the same as I will. Never changer a front main seal only ever changed a rear main I don't know if it's the same as changing the rear.
Power washers just bend fins. Use compressed air.
And then lay radiator flat and use scrubbing bubbles to clean the bugs out and rinse with a garden hose - no nozzle or pressure. Again bent fins are difficult to open back up.
And then lay radiator flat and use scrubbing bubbles to clean the bugs out and rinse with a garden hose - no nozzle or pressure. Again bent fins are difficult to open back up.
OK I'm doing everything tomorrow so the oil filter relocation is that something I can get from napa or advance auto or another parts store? I would like to do everything while I'm already dirty and under there so if not I'll just get the oil filter adapter o rings and seal it up along with the front main o ring.
I don't know if this will work http://www.pepboys.com/product/details/9971626/01058
Last edited:
great white
Well-Known Member
If you're going to spend $417 on an OEM style damper, go up another 8 bucks and get a fluidampr instead: http://leroydiesel.com/product-category/engine-products/
It will outlast the truck, but why spend almost as much for something you may have to replace again further down the road?
The oil Collier lines can be done more cheaply than the kits available if you're strapped. Buy the cooler adapter fittings (I think Leroy still offers just fittings) then head to a hydraulic shop and have a couple lines made. The hydraulic shop can also provide the 90 degree block fittings. Someone here can give you the size. There are two different sizes depending on which block you have.
I still run the stock oil filter adapter. No leaks and no issues other than being a pita come oil change time. I have the parts to relocate the filter, but I'm out of room in the engine bay to do it.
I already got everything and the OEM harmonic was only 60 or 70 on rock.
If you're going to spend $417 on an OEM style damper, go up another 8 bucks and get a fluidampr instead: http://leroydiesel.com/product-category/engine-products/
It will outlast the truck, but why spend almost as much for something you may have to replace again further down the road?
The oil Collier lines can be done more cheaply than the kits available if you're strapped. Buy the cooler adapter fittings (I think Leroy still offers just fittings) then head to a hydraulic shop and have a couple lines made. The hydraulic shop can also provide the 90 degree block fittings. Someone here can give you the size. There are two different sizes depending on which block you have.
I still run the stock oil filter adapter. No leaks and no issues other than being a pita come oil change time. I have the parts to relocate the filter, but I'm out of room in the engine bay to do it.
Well the oil cooler lines were a pain in the ass especially when I open my package and they sent one wrong fitting. Then I messed my oil cooler up it stripped out because I didn't notice the old o ring was still stuck in there and it binded on me. I ended up taking everything off got the new pulley and balancer on.