I've got an att. Oil is leaking from under it, near the area of the return line. I don't think the oil is dripping from the return connection. Also, I'm not certain, but I think there is a clunking sound, like a bearing possibly going out, but I can't really isolate it with all the background noise. 6.5's are noisey. However, what to do? Is there a rebuild kit, or a phone number for the makers? All I got was an email address... Would prefer to talk to a human.
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A-team turbo oil leak
- Thread starter Tovar
- Start date
Clean the area and be sure where the oil is leaking from. The top oil inlet fitting gave me trouble on some turbo's. So did the CDR system dumping oil mist into the intake. A restricted oil return line will push oil past the internal turbo seals. Make sure the engine oil isn't over-full and no kinks.
Typically I would simply melt the oil drain hoses in the heat out here and they would leak at the clamps.
Check the housing for the compressor wheel "rubbing". It's difficult to feel a turbo for bearing play by hand.
Short video uploaded to YouTube of the noise would help.
Typically I would simply melt the oil drain hoses in the heat out here and they would leak at the clamps.
Check the housing for the compressor wheel "rubbing". It's difficult to feel a turbo for bearing play by hand.
Short video uploaded to YouTube of the noise would help.
Here's an idea. Has anyone made a 6.5 turbodiesel into a 6.5 diesel? Let's say you fabricate all the pipping as needed, so as to copy roughly what it is like with the turbo fitted, but without the turbo.... Would that work? How many codes would that pop? For me, one less component to mess with would be nice.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
All 6.2 and many 6.5 were n/a before the turbo ever got added.
You could drive it like that but it will throw CEL. It will smoke when you accelerate. Big loss in power and mpg.
An acceptable get you home or get me through to the paycheck move. But you would not be happy with it.
You could drive it like that but it will throw CEL. It will smoke when you accelerate. Big loss in power and mpg.
An acceptable get you home or get me through to the paycheck move. But you would not be happy with it.
That's not what I wanted to hear. Would have preferred to ax the turbo. Sick of overpriced and failing parts, with the added mystery of what is wrong. Oh, well. How about this... I've still got the factory turbo. But, it has a wastegate. The att does not and the PCM is tuned for the att. If I switch them, can I, somehow, modify the stock turbo's wastegate to be set manually? Because all the vaccum system has been removed; not needed for the att.
JMJNet
Recruit
The mechanical wastegate is just a spring that stay close till a certain psi.
Mine does not use the vacuum pump anymore.
Mine does not use the vacuum pump anymore.
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
You can build a turbo master waste gate controller from the old waste gate actuator. There I believe is instructions with part numbers and all somewhere on the net. Maybe in this forum.
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
Try here for instructions.
DIY Turbo Master
Well, I finally felt called to make a turbo master. It's been on my mind for a while, but you know how it is, sometimes you just don't feel like it. Anyway, I used the original wastgate actuator(why re-invent the wheel), 5/16 threaded rod with flat washers, a 5/16 nut with nylon locking...
www.thetruckstop.us
Thanks for the feedback. I'm gonna put the old turbo on with the modified waste-gate. The leak on the att is coming from the back of the front part of the turbo, near the return line. I don't know if that thing is rebuildable, so I'm going to run the other one, and see what happens. That att did not last very long, and I only drive the truck a couple times a week. If anybody out there knows anything about these att units, I'd be all ears.
NVW
Well-Known Member
Not sure where your leak is coming from, but rebuild kits can be had. I rebuilt mine once, antifreeze got in the oil.
Mine wasn't leaking, the bearings were bad.
Mine wasn't leaking, the bearings were bad.
JMJNet
Recruit
The key if you are building TurboMaster is find the strongest spring there is.
Most spring cannot hold till around 10 psi.
The logic in turbo is reverse than the way we think.
Most spring cannot hold till around 10 psi.
The logic in turbo is reverse than the way we think.
Okay. I built the turbo master. Everything is installed. How do you set the spring to give you the desire boost? Is it by length? So, 2" of spring showing after tightening will give you, say, 11 psi.... Or, is there another method? I do have a boost gauge installed.
NVW
Well-Known Member
If it's home built, a gauge will be needed to set the boost.
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
Basically your giving it full boost until the spring gives and when it does it limits maximum psi. 12 would be the most I would run on a stock engine, 10 would be safer.
As I already stated, I have a boost gauge installed, and I understand the purpose of the turbo master. My question is... to avoid any destruction, the spring must be set to give me the desired psi. I would like it to be 11psi when the flap opens. Now, again, in order to avoid over-boosting and possible destruction of the head gasket or something else, what is the procedure in order to find my desired tightening of the spring in order to obtain my desired boost psi. This question may seem elementary to most, but if I can destroy something, I usually do. I would like to avoid that, so I would rather ask. Somebody out there knows the answer. Is it trial and error? Go out and drive, obtain 11psi, and if the gauge keeps climbing, stop and adjust, or can you pretension the spring to a certain length to obtain my desired psi. I made it in accordance to the specs given to me from the above advice.....
NVW
Well-Known Member
Trial and error, unless you bought a turbo master from Heath, he has a specified length for a specified boost. He would have used the same spring for them all. With a home built the spring is an unknown.
Just give er hell and do as you said, make the adjustments.
Just give er hell and do as you said, make the adjustments.
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
Yup, My home made TM had to be adjusted on the fly. Give it a test run the tighten it down if more boost was needed.
That is usually the way it goes. Afraid of overboost so spring is set loose.
That is usually the way it goes. Afraid of overboost so spring is set loose.
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
It took Me several tries before I got My home made TM set to how I liked it. It did make 15 PSI boost once so Ingot out and set it back down. After that I was happy at 11 PSI and the SES lamp never lit up.
Is the leak from the gasket under the return line adapter that's held on by two bolts? A picture of the leaking area would make for an easier answer.
The gasket is shown in this picture. I just make them myself as it's quicker than ordering one. (No don't buy the kit if you just need the gasket!)
Are you still towing with this rig? If so you are wasting your time and money on the Asthma Attack GM turbo. It turns Diesel fuel into heat over 2200 RPM that locks the engine cooling fan in slowing you down. There are some other turbo's out there now (if there is a crack or other weird leaking failure on the ATT) that will pay for themselves real quick with the over $5.50 Diesel fuel prices vs. the OEM GMx turbo.
If you are gaining altitude like 8000' you will get about 2 PSI of "boost creep" on the GMx so set it for 12 PSI max and be ok with 14 PSI at 8000'.
@Burning oil Leroy may still be able to get ATT rebuild kits.