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A little maintenance before att install, couple questions

P

Plaf713

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Schenectady ny
Finally received my att and figured while I'm in there I'll do the injectors and glow plugs. So I've got the turbo off and I have a couple of questions.

1. When installing the last injector, is it ok to install the cap before throwing the injector in or do I have to do it once the injector is installed, because I'm having a hell of a time getting that cap on all the way.

2. I ordered the injector install kit and the return line is a basket weave type line, now I'm assuming this is the style that I can just throw on without the clamp, this true?

3. Last one for right now, I am having a hell of a time getting the oil feed tube out, even with the injector and glow plug out. My dilemma is I cannot get the top clamp loose, it's turned almost toward the block. only the bottom and this isn't allowing enough clearance to get it out. Any suggestions?

Other then that everything has gone smooth (knock on wood). My biggest fear was getting that turbo off and it came off in about an hour. I'm excited to see what this thing will do with all the new goodies on it. Unfortunately I'm still waiting on my kojo tune but Im being patient.

Thanks in advance
 
Plaf713 said:
1. When installing the last injector, is it ok to install the cap before throwing the injector in or do I have to do it once the injector is installed, because I'm having a hell of a time getting that cap on all the way.

3. Last one for right now, I am having a hell of a time getting the oil feed tube out, even with the injector and glow plug out. My dilemma is I cannot get the top clamp loose, it's turned almost toward the block. only the bottom and this isn't allowing enough clearance to get it out. Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance
Click to expand...

1. Yes, the end cap can be installed onto the injector before installing the injector.

3. When using the term "oil feed tube" do you mean the turbo oil drain tube that goes down to the lower part of the block? This tube attaches to a plate that bolts to the block where the mechanical lift pump attached on the early 6.2. If so, do you have enough room to easily remove the plate?

Don
 
The problem with installing the cap on the final injector is that it's a 50/50 guess as to what side it ends up on.
 
tony.miller said:
If it the rubber hose with the cloth wrapped around it it is just a push on no clamp needed.
Click to expand...

To good to be true.

Some if not most injector sets can get away with this. Others have air and fuel leaks causing a diesel smell and hard starting due to air from sitting overnight. The clamps are $0.88 each. Just air leaks are hard to find with hard starting the next day.
 
WarWagon said:
To good to be true.

Some if not most injector sets can get away with this. Others have air and fuel leaks causing a diesel smell and hard starting due to air from sitting overnight. The clamps are $0.88 each. Just air leaks are hard to find with hard starting the next day.
Click to expand...

Air leaks on return lines do not matter. It's leaks from the IP that matter. I tested my son's with clear lines and every single injector emits bubbles through the return lines, yet it starts and runs as smoothly as any 6.5. None of the return lines leak. The little clamps are virtually impossible to install on some of the injectors, especially the caps on the last injectors at the firewall. I never use them.
 
well ive completed my swap of the a team turbo and finished the injectors and glow plugs. i get everything back together and the batteries are dead, really dead. Im so anxious to start it but i have to wait for full charge on both batteries. This sucks.
 
Well found out the issue wasn't the batteries, both batteries are good and fully charged and I'm gettin zero power for anything. I cleaned up the terminal connections and check some of the obvious grounds and all appear ok. Also checked all glow plug connections and forgot to put the one below the oil drain tube from turbo but that had no affect on it. I'm stumped!!!!!
 
Also check power across any fuseable links. Probably one of those-'oh yeah forgot to reconnect that' moments.
 
Big T said:
Air leaks on return lines do not matter. It's leaks from the IP that matter. I tested my son's with clear lines and every single injector emits bubbles through the return lines, yet it starts and runs as smoothly as any 6.5. None of the return lines leak. The little clamps are virtually impossible to install on some of the injectors, especially the caps on the last injectors at the firewall. I never use them.
Click to expand...

:yuck: The injector return line caps are so much fun and even harder to find. Especially at 2AM on a hot engine. Wound up with a mixture screw from a lawnmower clamped into place when the passenger side return line cap started leaking.

You have to think of the entire return side of the fuel system. GM submerged the return line in the fuel tank to keep air from entering the return lines and letting the fuel drain out. Now if you have a fuel and air leak at the return lines like I do the fuel system will slowly drain out from air entering the return side.

I can only guess the lift pump does not stop fuel drain-back during overnight or week long sittings. Perhaps the fuel finds another way out or way to get air somewhere in the high pressure lines to make starting hard. Leaking back through the injector from the return line is my best guess.

Air leaks don't always leak fuel making this specific air leak very hard to pin down.

Air bubbles in the return line don't matter for the hard start if they are not moving. I forget if constant air bubbles in the return lines from injectors mean they are not sealing against combustion or is it only a test to see if they seal against compression during cranking.

I park nose up to stop the fuel from dripping on the steep driveway. This of course makes the starting problem worse. I have already pulled the turbo once to replace the lines and next time they will be clamped on. Only 1 or 2 leak fuel, of course, under the turbo. :mad2:
 
I always do one side then fire it up for a few seconds then other side. Makes it much easier to start because 4 are allways bled and ready to fire off.
Do you remove the bat ground wire on pass side? Also the grounds by trans dip stick must be hooked up.
 
Everything is all good now, just needed to clean up connectors a little more.

So I started it and runs fine, only concern is that it somewhat sounds like an injector knock. It's definitely "clacking" more. Other then that it runs great. I don't even really know if it's an injector knock or not or if it's supposed to sound like that.

Now I'm just waiting on my kojo tune and I'll be all set!!!!
 
Try to isolate the knocker with a long screwdriver on the injector and your ear on the other end. Don't put it on the lines, they have a different sound. Then/or crack injection lines one at a time to see if the knock goes away. You have a 1 in 4 chance that the knocker is under the Turbo...JOY!

Good luck
 
I used your method and it sounds like the number 6 injector is knocking, I haven't yet to crack the line yet though. It's weird that these brand new Bosch injectors would be bad
 
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