A couple more questions for the experts.....

[gnel]

I don't think you would have a problem doing this temporarily. Try bypassing the passenger side injector returns. Run tube from just after ip and to the return line going back to tank. Put a catch pan on the line from the injectors as they will still be returning fuel too. This would tell you if its the pump or one of the injectors or the hoses. This to me would be easier then if it clears up you can test like AK suggested to isolate the issue.

Thanks for the reply Leroy. I´m into easy. Thanks. gus

 

[ak diesel driver]

if you already have a clear line coming out of the IP with no air in it you have eliminated the IP as a source which means that your down to the 4 pass side injs. do the easy ones first you might get lucky

 

[gnel]

Well here´s what happened on the air bubbles part of my two problems. As ak pointed out the IP couldn´t be the problem. Following Leroys advice I isolated one side of the motor then the other and was still getting bubbles.What the heck? How can that be? Well it seems that some MORON (yes folks that would be me) installed slightly to large diameter hoses and the more he tightened the clamps the more they leaked (air but not diesel?). DOH!

On to the boost problem. After changing out the vacuum lines (again) and testing (again). I concluded that it should be the actuator and anyway it was the easiest thing to replace. As this is Mexico and sometimes the burro dies or wanders off I should be getting a new one in a week or two.

Is there anyway to jury rig the turbo so I can drive around town for a couple of weeks or am I asking for trouble?

Thanks for all the advice and I´ll let you all know how it works out.(when the burro arrives) gus

 

[buddy]

for the boost, you can just put a spring helper on it, like a screen door sping. Or connect the actuator to the vacuum pump like you did, but put a restriction in it so you dont get as much vacuum and too much boost.

Since it worked when connected directly to the vacuum pump it sounded like the solenoid may be finicky.

 

[bison]

No.
If you have vacuum in the tank you could be sucking air trough a cracked injector return line anywhere along that bank.Or you could have a bad injector letting in air trough the nozzle under compression.[/QUOTE

I have no vacuum in the tank. I drilled a small hole in the locking cap to be sure. My injectors were just rebuilt (with german bosch nozzles ) about 5 mos. ago and I installed all new return lines. Any other ideas? Another thing is that when its cold it shows no bubbles but as it warms up it gets worse and worse. Thanks for repling. gus

That don't mean you can't have a bad one in the batch!.
You have ruled out the tank,that leaves an injector as the cause.

 

[gnel]

for the boost, you can just put a spring helper on it, like a screen door sping. Or connect the actuator to the vacuum pump like you did, but put a restriction in it so you dont get as much vacuum and too much boost.

Since it worked when connected directly to the vacuum pump it sounded like the solenoid may be finicky.

Thanks Buddy for the reply. My problem is with this being Mexico I had to send the actuator to the supplier to make sure I get the right one. Can I put a spring on it sans actuator? I really don´t think its the solenoid (this coming from the master hoser) but we´ll see.

 

[buddy]

Yes, sans actuator, just run a spring from the hole on the wastegate lever to a bolt on the compressor housing. You can fashion some sort of piece of metal to hook the spring on the housing bolt. It can't be too springy, must have some resistance to build boost. And if the spring you find anywhere is a little too short just use a piece of wire or something to run it to where you hook it on.

A spring like the one in the middle maybe

 

[ak diesel driver]

you could wire it solid as long as you take it somewhat easy. someone on here ran it wired shut for a year IIRC

 

[gnel]

Great info. I´ll try a spring and if that don´t work I´ll wire it solid. Thanks g

 

[NVW]

Vise grips on the lever will hold it in place as well, I did that once to get home. Boost builds real fast thought.

 

[bison]

Well here´s what happened on the air bubbles part of my two problems. As ak pointed out the IP couldn´t be the problem. Following Leroys advice I isolated one side of the motor then the other and was still getting bubbles.What the heck? How can that be? Well it seems that some MORON (yes folks that would be me) installed slightly to large diameter hoses and the more he tightened the clamps the more they leaked (air but not diesel?). DOH! On to the boost problem. After changing out the vacuum lines (again) and testing (again). I concluded that it should be the actuator and anyway it was the easiest thing to replace. As this is Mexico and sometimes the burro dies or wanders off I should be getting a new one in a week or two.

Is there anyway to jury rig the turbo so I can drive around town for a couple of weeks or am I asking for trouble?

Thanks for all the advice and I´ll let you all know how it works out.(when the burro arrives) gus

You must have had some vac in the tank for air to enter trough the mismatched return lines or you would have seen fuel leaks there

 

[Turbine Doc]

you could wire it solid as long as you take it somewhat easy. someone on here ran it wired shut for a year IIRC

X2 with AKDD

I didn't run wired shut, I did run with my TM hogged way down to point of it almost being wired shut for a long time, with gauges, so you can monitoring for high boost/egt and adjust accordingly

One could run as long as they wanted mindful of the inability for the PCM to correct a out of limit sitution by de-boosting, but in that scenario PCM still protects by defueling, if a PCM can't be made "happy" with a de-boost it sets a boost error code, then defuels. Gauges are required to know this has happened, also PCM does not know what EGT is so EGT monitoring becomes a driver limited function when altering PCMs ability to control boost.

Short version you'll be safe to run wired shut just monitor what you are doing while wired shut, may be some mpg loss wired shut as well.

 

[Brooklyn Tow]

You'll defuel and go into limp mode if you overboost or IAT's get to high.......if you can't get the spring working correctly just plumb the vac pump into the WG......This advise given to me from Bill Heath.

ALSO: Drive easy and just remember that your WG is Closed and boost is directly proportionate to the accelerator pedal. On the flip side if you drive with no boost your EGT's will climb VERY quickly in the Mexican heat (also causing a defuel and limp mode condition).....Up too you, lesser of 2 evils.....I'd go with the WG plumbed shut....JMHO!

**DRIVE AT YOUR OWN RISK, THESE OPTIONS BOTH HAVE NEGATIVE CONSEQUENCES**

 

[Brooklyn Tow]

Jeez Tim, you type, and I really type s l o w. . . .

 

[gnel]

You must have had some vac in the tank for air to enter trough the mismatched return lines or you would have seen fuel leaks there

Good point bison. I think I´ll drill another hole in the cap.

 

[gnel]

Well I failed miserabley with my spring to wastegate setup. So I think I´ll just drive the old 6.2 until the actuator arrives. Sucks though no a/c or stereo in the 6.2.

 

[buddy]

Well I failed miserabley with my spring to wastegate setup. So I think I´ll just drive the old 6.2 until the actuator arrives. Sucks though no a/c or stereo in the 6.2.

Got a pic of what you tried? That was just the easy quick method. Or you can wire it shut.

 

[buddy]

You must have had some vac in the tank for air to enter trough the mismatched return lines or you would have seen fuel leaks there

Was all the line too big on each injector return nipple? Maybe the vacuum came from the injector return nipples, when #2 would return fuel, may be trying to pull fuel from the #4, 6, 8 return lines and instead pulled air up.

 

[gnel]

Got a pic of what you tried? That was just the easy quick method. Or you can wire it shut.

No I can´t post photos. I´m pretty retarded when it comes to computers (and other things). Someday I´ll get my wife to teach me.

 

[gnel]

Was all the line too big on each injector return nipple? Maybe the vacuum came from the injector return nipples, when #2 would return fuel, may be trying to pull fuel from the #4, 6, 8 return lines and instead pulled air up.

No it was only the two clear lines I installed that were to big.