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A close look at a dead Walbro FRC-10

WarWagon

Well it hits on 7 of 8...
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I suppose I am the 1st person to kill the new FRC-10.

First off I killed it by removing all pre-screens and filters. They were plugging up with dead bugs before I knew what I was dealing with. The pump is 1 year and 6 months old with 10,000 miles on it. It was taken apart and cleaned out. However, it never had the same flow due to internal leakage/higher friction from the scoring and was noisy - rattling. I removed it from service after a new prefilter setup caused a vacuum in the system and stalled out the engine. There are no rebuild parts available at this time for this model. Some parts like the screens, o-rings, and gasket will interchange with other models. I also had a fishbite going on prior to the new filter setup that was cured with a higher flow new lift pump. Again this one was not performing to specs anymore.

I rebuilt the other FRB-5 I have with a new armature that Walbro sent me. It suffered the same bad fuel, however, the rebuild fixed it and it continues to do well. Moral of the story is the screen is easy to clean and the factory tank sock can bypass letting dirt through. So leave the screen in. (Duh! But think of how fast buggy fuel plugs a filter and screen - real quick. Here for what went through em.)

The spring and armature are different between the pumps. It is possible the coil locations etc. may be different as well.

The FRC-10 as well as the FRB-5 have a lot more to offer than a stock pump. The built in screen allows tank sock removal without adding other prefilters. It has a magnet in the bottom screw. (The magnet has zero effect on diesel bugs no matter what snake-X devices claim.) You can take it apart and clean it out. The valves are better material with dedicated springs vs. rubber flappers.

The spring and armature are different between the FRC-10 and FRB-5. Note the armature scoring and metal on the end that killed this pump. The white thing in the armature is part of the second valve.

frc-10.jpg

This part could be replaced to renew this pump:
frc-10 scored.jpg

frc-10scored2.jpg

I'll add this to the dead lift pump pile with a note of lasting the longest so far of anything I have used. If they sold rebuild parts this could be put back in service. Other than cleaning the screens from bad fuel I have not had to replace a lift pump in well over a year for a change.

Plugged socks contributed to short life I am sure. Towing and running hard did the rest as I was at high fuel flow RPM most of the time.

The pile has factory lift pumps, including one that was leaking fuel through the power wires. Most failed from biodiesel eating the valves.
I have a Carter rotory vane fuel cooled motor that biodiesel ruined the brushes - it now runs in reverse after a few hammer taps as a transfer pump.
You don't want to know how many Autozone lift pumps I have gone through under their warranty.
 
Thanks, nice writeup, anyone with an FRB-5 that isnt getting quite enough pressure can swap in a stiffer spring to raise it a few psi. If its not performing to spec then Walbro may send you one for free.
 
For the record I had a kinked fuel line behind the FFM that the higher pressure lift forced open for awhile. Finally found it. No doubt this also shortened the life of the lift pump....
 
I'm up against a need for a new lift pump. I have another OEM style, but I believe it's time to do an upgrade. What is the recommendation at this point? FRC-10 or FRB-5?

I still have the sock in the tank - actually, it was a new sock a few years back, in the event that makes a difference.
 
How in the world do you get bugs in the fuel?:dunno:

In over 40 years driving/maintaining/fixing diesels i have only seen once a dead bee stuck in a fuel return line on a wheelloader that blocked flow from the IP back to the tank.
I still wonder how that bee ended up there as it had to go past 2 filters the LP and the IP to get there.
Tank vac does shorten the life of al LP's,IMO a tank should breathe freely.
 
I suppose I am the 1st person to kill the new FRC-10.

First off I killed it by removing all pre-screens and filters. They were plugging up with dead bugs before I knew what I was dealing with. The pump is 1 year and 6 months old with 10,000 miles on it. It was taken apart and cleaned out. However, it never had the same flow due to internal leakage/higher friction from the scoring and was noisy - rattling. I removed it from service after a new prefilter setup caused a vacuum in the system and stalled out the engine. There are no rebuild parts available at this time for this model. Some parts like the screens, o-rings, and gasket will interchange with other models. I also had a fishbite going on prior to the new filter setup that was cured with a higher flow new lift pump. Again this one was not performing to specs anymore.

I rebuilt the other FRB-5 I have with a new armature that Walbro sent me. It suffered the same bad fuel, however, the rebuild fixed it and it continues to do well. Moral of the story is the screen is easy to clean and the factory tank sock can bypass letting dirt through. So leave the screen in. (Duh! But think of how fast buggy fuel plugs a filter and screen - real quick. Here for what went through em.)

The spring and armature are different between the pumps. It is possible the coil locations etc. may be different as well.

The FRC-10 as well as the FRB-5 have a lot more to offer than a stock pump. The built in screen allows tank sock removal without adding other prefilters. It has a magnet in the bottom screw. (The magnet has zero effect on diesel bugs no matter what snake-X devices claim.) You can take it apart and clean it out. The valves are better material with dedicated springs vs. rubber flappers.

The spring and armature are different between the FRC-10 and FRB-5. Note the armature scoring and metal on the end that killed this pump. The white thing in the armature is part of the second valve.

View attachment 33009

This part could be replaced to renew this pump:
View attachment 33010

View attachment 33011

I'll add this to the dead lift pump pile with a note of lasting the longest so far of anything I have used. If they sold rebuild parts this could be put back in service. Other than cleaning the screens from bad fuel I have not had to replace a lift pump in well over a year for a change.

Plugged socks contributed to short life I am sure. Towing and running hard did the rest as I was at high fuel flow RPM most of the time.

The pile has factory lift pumps, including one that was leaking fuel through the power wires. Most failed from biodiesel eating the valves.
I have a Carter rotory vane fuel cooled motor that biodiesel ruined the brushes - it now runs in reverse after a few hammer taps as a transfer pump.
You don't want to know how many Autozone lift pumps I have gone through under their warranty.
Good write up. Just saw it for the first time. Do you think the scored cylinder could be machined for a reasonable cost? (probably not)

I'm up against a need for a new lift pump. I have another OEM style, but I believe it's time to do an upgrade. What is the recommendation at this point? FRC-10 or FRB-5?

I still have the sock in the tank - actually, it was a new sock a few years back, in the event that makes a difference.

For the 94 -2000 Ds4 IP 6.5 the Walbro FRC10 is the better choice. DB2 IP 6.5 use the FRB5.
I like to remove the tank sock & ad a 30 micron spin on fuel filter between tank and lift pump.
 
Good write up. Just saw it for the first time. Do you think the scored cylinder could be machined for a reasonable cost? (probably not)



For the 94 -2000 Ds4 IP 6.5 the Walbro FRC10 is the better choice. DB2 IP 6.5 use the FRB5.
I like to remove the tank sock & ad a 30 micron spin on fuel filter between tank and lift pump.

Your kit comes with the plug and pins, right? Quite, literally, does this mean I put the pin ends on the wires and then insert them into the plug? Two wires, right? Self-explanatory procedure, I assume, once the parts are in hand?
 
Leroy's kits come with pins and a factory plug to plug into the vehicle connector.

My "Here" link above describes bugs in fuel, algae being a incorrect term - algae stuff that uses light to grow and diesel can be made from algae making searches harder.

Boating forums describe this issue with biodiesel.

Add another year of life to the rebuilt Walbro since this thread was put up. :thumbsup: The IP and injectors did fail in the past year due to damage from the bad fuel.
 
Your kit comes with the plug and pins, right? Quite, literally, does this mean I put the pin ends on the wires and then insert them into the plug? Two wires, right? Self-explanatory procedure, I assume, once the parts are in hand?

You are correct sir.
 
Sulfur-eating bacteria growth in diesel fuel became an almost non-existent problem with the new ULSD. However, with biodiesel, there is a whole new crop of "critters" that can possibly live and breed in biodiesel - especially if the "brewing" process is less than ideal. Power Service Products has a quite effective biocide that can be added to biodiesel that will be stored for any long-term period to prevent baterial blooms that can ruin a batch of fuel, and it can also be added to your fuel tank to prevent/kill any bacterial activity in the vehicle's tank.
 
WarWagon is like Freddy Kruger to a 6.5 engine. Nobody has done more damage to one than War Wagon under "normal" use. :nopity::gnorsi:
 
WarWagon is like Freddy Kruger to a 6.5 engine. Nobody has done more damage to one than War Wagon under "normal" use. :nopity::gnorsi:

I was thinking more along the lines of Attila the Hun - leaving a trail of carnage, death and destruction in his wake where ever he goes.
 
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