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A/C working for short periods of time

I can't remember which brand I bought that was the new round tube style condenser, but it was a factory replacement for the dual air BURBS I bought from MARKS AIR. I'm not sure if all the replacements are now the round tube or if they still make some flat capilary tube styles or not.
 
would it make sense that it would have had ice cold air with the old pump, even though it was cutting out, in time, but after a flush and with the new pump it's not as cold? There was very little material in the orifice tube. I saw it when they pulled it out.

I called Mark's Air and the condenser they have available for me is made in Mexico - good price, though, if a person can't find a made in USA part. I'd rather have Mexican than Chinese.
 
Without being able to look at it myself, it's hard to say what is up with it. I've done compressor swaps with cheap compressors and not have good air afterwards. The only fix I found was to replace the compressor with another one and make sure and get the oil charge correct. If your system is needing 3 pounds of charge and still not cold, then something is up wth it. I'm curious what your high side reading is on the system with that amount of charge in it.
 
I can't recall the numbers.

I have a new condenser on the way. I also bought an accumulator, since the system will be opened up. I'll have to have my A/C guy evacuate the system and install it, since I can't evacuate it myself. Will the evac. get rid of all the oil in the system, so we can start over? I'm open to hearing suggestions on things to check while they have it apart. I certainly don't want to insult him, but I don't believe he would be opposed to me asking questions. I'll also make a note on the gauge readings when I see them.

I'm guessing the semis he normally works on has the tube type of condenser that can be flushed and life is good. Probably just unfamiliar with the intricacies of this particular system.
 
Evacing the system doesn't do anything for the oil charge. Something wierd is going on if it needs that much charge to work. I would have it charged to spec and see what the pressures are. The oil charge may require adjustement to get the pressures correct with the correct charge. And make sure there is only 1 orifice tube installed. It goes in the condenser outlet. I know others have made the mistake of putting one in the evaporator inlet like they did up to 93. The combo of 2 orifices kills the A/C performance and makes it go haywire on the pressures. And I would use a standard white fixxed orifice, not one of the VOV variables. And if the orifice gets placed at the evap inlet instead of the condenser outlet, it will make it require a larger charge to function.
 
Condenser outlet is the angled line coming up from the bottom, correct? Not the one that comes in horizontal.

It makes more sense, now, why the condenser gets all the trash if the orifice tube is on the outlet, since the Freon has already been through the condenser by the time it makes it to the orifice tube.

Below is the orifice tube I bought for it.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d..._2207&keyword=orifice+tube&pt=02728&ppt=C0328
 
Ferm, your guidance and knowledge are SO helpful, Thank You.
My burb is non-cooling now, and I look foreward to DIRTFT it with the help you gave to SnowDrift.
You are such a valuable asset to us, and I feel you are under-appreciated. How's your healing going?
Dave
:cool:
 
Condenser and accumulator came in yesterday. Is replacement of the accumulator a wise idea, at this point? I made that assumption since the system will be open for a while to change out the condenser.

Should I see 45 deg. coming out of the vent if everything is properly operating? I never checked it before, but should have. I'll check the car - It's very cold.

How can the oil charge be checked/adjusted, like you mentioned in an earlier post? What are the numbers I'm looking for high side/low side?
 
The oil charge is just something you have to adjust as needed when you start changing oil viscosities. I have ran into this before, and there is no set rule as to how much to add. For pressures, you want to get it charged so that your evap is almost freezing when it reaches the 20 PSI cutoff pressure. Keep the high side down under 275 or so for a single air system and you should be good. At idle you should see aroun 35-55 on the low side, and 175-225 on the high side. The pressures are highly dependant on inside and outside temps, so there is no set pressures either.
 
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