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a/c repairs 95 k2500 xtra cab 4wd

C

croberts

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Richwood, Ohio.USA....smalltown, USA
Can anyone tell me exactly where the the orifice tube for the ac system is located on this truck. I am replacing the compressor , accumulator and the orifice tube. I am not that familiar with ac systems and do not know where the orifice tube is. Also I got the parts and the new ( reman ) compressor does not have the plug receptacle in the rear of the compressor, it only has the one in front for the clutch I think. Was I given the wrong compressor or do I need to remove the plug recptacle on the old compressor and put in new one or take it back and get the correct compressor? Thanks in advance !!!!
 
You take the clip out, remove the plug and put your sensor in with a new oring. The orifice IIRC (I don't work on alot of these style) is in the effleunt side of the condensor.
 
I don't have pics, unless something very unique about your vehicle, being a truck it should be in the condenser in front of the radiator, lower leg if memory serves me correctly, it will be the one that comes off at an angle with a distance piece in it, take that fitting loose and with needle nose pliers grab the back of it and pull it out.

What is prompting the change, high head pressure ??? if so you probably should remove it completely and flush it, as whatever is plugging the tube may be trapped in there and will plug the replacement one up.

Alas I don't have my 95 manual with me to PDF/scan it for you to look at.

In the old one that plug I think you are referencing is a switch, & does not come with the new compressor, so you replace with new or swap it from the old compressor. Don't forget to add oil to the compressor, dryer, and condenser, the GM manual says how much to ad per component replaced, you also doing a 134 conversion ??? if so the oil needs to be 134 compatible.
 
compressor was leaking according to the guy I had check it with dye. So I am just doing everything that is required for the warranty to be valid for the compressor, do you think I need to change the orifice at all? If so , can I just remove the grill or all of the front piece that grill is attached to and surrounds the headlights?
 
Changing the orifice is reccomended and you will most likely find that it is pretty covered over from the years when you do it. It is located in the condenser on the trucks and requires removing the line that hooks to the lower tube coming off of it. Be VERY careful though as those lines tend to seize into the condenser(the A/C lines are steel and the condenser's fittings are aluminum). If they don't come apart easily I would just leave it alone. And yes you will need to swap the high pressure switch over from your old compressor to the new one as they never come with those switches in them anymore(saves em the $10 or whatever it is).
 
My orifice tube is located on the fender well in the line under the air box. you will see the fitting that you have to undo. Just make sure you put it in the same way as the old one. And if you have the chance I would get the vov orifice tube instead of the standard orifice tube they work alot better in high outside temp at idle situations.
 
I thought GM was into saving money and keeping parts the same and interchangeable. Must be Heavy trucks got bigger/smaller condensers or something. Or mine is bigger because of the rear ac, therefore remove more heat and help refrig. differential in cooling the extra sq. footage.
 
He has a 95. It should already be 134a. IIRC R12 was done in 92. Could be wrong. TD is correct if you are having high head pressure, clean and flush entire system and make sure accumulator is replaced. Warranty is only as good as the parts store you deal with. Some will bust balls, some won't. I personally have never had to prove anything to return a compressor but I do alot of business with my parts store.
 
The orifice location difference is because the burb has front and rear while truck only have front.

The one that get the orifice is only the front. In the burb, the orifice is located after the split.
 
JMJNet said:
The orifice location difference is because the burb has front and rear while truck only have front.

The one that get the orifice is only the front. In the burb, the orifice is located after the split.
Click to expand...

Yep. GM used a one piece line from the condenser to the evap on the trucks but had to use a divider and 2 piece line for the bURB because of rear air(and the rear evap uses an expansion valve instead of an orifice). Also the BURB got a larger condenser in them than the trucks have. The switch to R-134A was in late 93 as 93 could be either or. Up to 94 though the orifice was in the inlet of the evap, but 95 moved it to the condenser.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
Yep. GM used a one piece line from the condenser to the evap on the trucks but had to use a divider and 2 piece line for the bURB because of rear air(and the rear evap uses an expansion valve instead of an orifice). Also the BURB got a larger condenser in them than the trucks have. The switch to R-134A was in late 93 as 93 could be either or. Up to 94 though the orifice was in the inlet of the evap, but 95 moved it to the condenser.
Click to expand...

I'm going to overhaul the AC on my '99 Burb. At Rockuto they list several different dryers/accumulators, some for 2wd, etc. I'm always interested in the Delco version, but it's listed for 2wd and I have 4wd. How do I know which accumulator to order?

Similarly, all sorts of different orifaces listed. Confusing as heck. How do I know which VOV to order? Will the VOV linked in another AC thread that I initiated work in my '99 'Burb?

Again, this is confusing as heck.
 
Big T said:
I'm going to overhaul the AC on my '99 Burb. At Rockuto they list several different dryers/accumulators, some for 2wd, etc. I'm always interested in the Delco version, but it's listed for 2wd and I have 4wd. How do I know which accumulator to order?

Similarly, all sorts of different orifaces listed. Confusing as heck. How do I know which VOV to order? Will the VOV linked in another AC thread that I initiated work in my '99 'Burb?

Again, this is confusing as heck.
Click to expand...

I know there are two VOV valves for each GM part number. One is for high temps like over 105 F, like you get in Phx, AZ etc, and the other is for below 105 F outside temps. Then you may have front and rear tubes - never worked on rear AC stuff myself.

Call the folks at www.aapak.com can they help you track down the right part numbers and get or make rare parts. Buy the VOV tube where you like...

Make sure you get the oil charge right after a flush and the freon charge by weight must be correct. Sticker for this oil and freon charge on the accumulator? Scratch or paint those numbers on the firewall as the new accumulator will nor have that sticker, maybe GM will sell a sticker with an accumulator. Note: Add 12oz cans to get the 16oz per LB equivalents.
 
Acesneights1 said:
Just take the whole grille off. It takes about 5 mins longer and can do some housekeeping....
Click to expand...

X2
Do make sure to get the VOV, you will love it.
The compressor will come with a charge in it (under pressure) so when r&ring the switch release that pressure first or you may need to buy another eyeball.
That thing will come flying out fast and hard.
The Subs get a bigger condenser so I put one in my P/u. System works great.
 
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