A/C Delco 60G glow plugs

[Bezzer]

Will L. Thanks for your return. The 309 fuel pump that is on the motorhome at this time is the original one that came with it new in 1996. The picture of the one in the box is brand new and got it just in case I needed it when I was traveling.
If your testing group is right about lasting 9 to 12 months before failing....looks like mine was gold plated (Ha Ha). Looks like I will be changing mine to the one shown in the picture I attached. Is there any fuel pressure involved before removing and changing this pump? If so- how do I get rid of the pressure ahead of time?
Would you have a picture of the fuel pressure gauge mounted at the ip inlet? I believe it's where I put the clear hose looking for bubbles?
My wife wants to know what you mean by the "signature line" and for what info to put there? She's been trying to put a picture of the motorhome where the "big B" is and it won't change anything on the forum.

 

[jrsavoie]

Will L. Thanks for your return. The 309 fuel pump that is on the motorhome at this time is the original one that came with it new in 1996. The picture of the one in the box is brand new and got it just in case I needed it when I was traveling.
If your testing group is right about lasting 9 to 12 months before failing....looks like mine was gold plated (Ha Ha). Looks like I will be changing mine to the one shown in the picture I attached. Is there any fuel pressure involved before removing and changing this pump? If so- how do I get rid of the pressure ahead of time?
Would you have a picture of the fuel pressure gauge mounted at the ip inlet? I believe it's where I put the clear hose looking for bubbles?
My wife wants to know what you mean by the "signature line" and for what info to put there? She's been trying to put a picture of the motorhome where the "big B" is and it won't change anything on the forum.

I would install a fuel pressure gauge before changing the lift pump.

If it's working use it until it isn't.

 

[Will L.]

Will L. Thanks for your return. The 309 fuel pump that is on the motorhome at this time is the original one that came with it new in 1996. The picture of the one in the box is brand new and got it just in case I needed it when I was traveling.
If your testing group is right about lasting 9 to 12 months before failing....looks like mine was gold plated (Ha Ha). Looks like I will be changing mine to the one shown in the picture I attached. Is there any fuel pressure involved before removing and changing this pump? If so- how do I get rid of the pressure ahead of time?
Would you have a picture of the fuel pressure gauge mounted at the ip inlet? I believe it's where I put the clear hose looking for bubbles?
My wife wants to know what you mean by the "signature line" and for what info to put there? She's been trying to put a picture of the motorhome where the "big B" is and it won't change anything on the forum.

“Working” is a theoretical term for lift pumps. I & others have seen many of them make the sound like they are working and the engine will run but the ip is sucking fuel through the bad rubber seals that makes the pump actually pump.
If you didn’t have a fuel pressure gauge on it- I doubt it was pumping anything by year 3. By end of year 2 it was probably pumping 2.5 ish psi @ idle and going i to vacuum at hard acceleration. This is what absolute destroys the ip, which I believe you said was just replaced. Did you get the expected 175,000 miles out of it?

 

[Will L.]

For the signature line, post #5 by Doug is a good example of how to do a signature line. If you look, every post he has will have that identical section. The signature line automatically posts every time you reply.

Mine starts with:
Will
Ends with the link to a thermostat option.

sorry, I can’t remember how to edit it. Someone else here that remembers will hopefully tell you soon

 

[MrMarty51]

And, if You are posting, or reading, from Your phone, the phone needs to be held horizontally in order to see the signature that the person has posted.
At least thats the way my iphoney works.

 

[dbrannon79]

The clear hose is your return line which is not under any pressure. you want to connect the pressure gauge to where the hose coming from the fuel filter going into the IP. should be a fitting sticking straight up on the drivers side right next to the cylinder shape fuel cut off solenoid. on pickup engines that hose is a pre-formed hose that loops back down under the intake and runs back to the fuel filter housing that sits behind the intake. we would need a pic of the top of the engine on your motor home to see how it's setup so we can tell you right.

on your signature, if your using your phone just tap your "big B" at the top next to the forum logo and mail icon and you'll see the option to edit your photo and further down below see where it says signature. it's practically the same when on a computer too. Here's a screenshot from my phone how it looks. note the edit word under the photo and further down where it says signature. tap on that to change things.

 

[Bezzer]

I'm sending four pictures of the top of my engine. Hope they help to find a place where I can tap a hose for the fuel pressure gauge?
I can see the two hoses coming under the manifold to the fuel filter but I will not be able to get to them without taking off the manifold (which I don't want to do). Hopefully there is another easier spot I can tap into?

I'm going to change that 309 fuel lift pump that I sent the picture on Tuesday. It's the same one that is on the motorhome right now that came with the motorhome new.
Do I need to relieve the fuel pressure before I remove it so I don't get fuel all over my face etc...as where it's at means I have to look up to take it off?

 

[dbrannon79]

This connection is where you would tie in a fuel pressure gauge.


you can also connect a hose and gauge to the fuel drain tee if that is still on the engine. it's where you drain the fuel filter and water at.

using the connection at the pump is ideal so you get the reading right at the pump. the drain tee is before the filter iirc.

 

[ak diesel driver]

If the LP is on the frame rail pressure isn't going to be the issue. The fuel tank gravity feeds to the LP.........

 

[Will L.]

Modmafia.com sells a fuel pressure tap for the DS4. It’s about $30 or so.
Some of the guys on here found a fitting on amazon or something that works for $20ish.

You want a metal fitting where no rubber hose is used after the T. Install the sending unit in that. Long story as to why - but worth doing right.

 

[WarWagon]

Long story as to why

Short version. Hose flapper restricting fuel flow at the IP fitting.

 

[jrsavoie]

Modmafia.com sells a fuel pressure tap for the DS4. It’s about $30 or so.
Some of the guys on here found a fitting on amazon or something that works for $20ish.

You want a metal fitting where no rubber hose is used after the T. Install the sending unit in that. Long story as to why - but worth doing right.

I would also recommend a snubber

 

[Bezzer]

I belong to a sight called Trek Tracks. They have a search sight just you at " Truck Stop".
I found about four fellows that have the same problem on the first start up of the day.
One had the 60G's....he found that turning the key on and wait for the glow plug light to go off...turn the key off....then wait for around 5 or 6 seconds and do the same thing over. As soon as the glow plug light goes off- start the engine.
I tried this and it does start faster. And when I use this procedure on "any first start up of the day" it works...no matter how many days goes by before I start it again.
I hope this continues to work from now on. I'm sure it's the new 60G's that need that little extra time that the glow plugs light up to start the engine without all the grinding.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Next question:
I'm still looking to set up the fuel pressure gauge with the "T " fitting after the fuel filter.
Has anyone done this job that can send a picture of what it looks like at this point...before the wires will be run out of the dog house to the gauge I'll mount on the dash somewhere.

dbrannon: These two pics are from the same picture you sent back to me as the place to put the the fitting. Did you mean Z22 or Z222??? I'd rather put the fitting on pic Z222 (this is the place where I did the clear hose testing for bubbles..and you said I can't use that place...can you explain why? ) With no bubbles and clear fuel running through the hose- I would think this would have pressure?? Maybe I'm wrong??
I still don't have any idea how this big the "T" fitting is. I asked if anyone could take a picture of their installation that would give me an idea of it's size .... so I can figure out where it's going to fit?
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Next question: I understand that there is a 'lift pump relay modification" in order to take the higher current off of the internal oil pressure sender contacts and let those control the relay that actually delivers the higher current to power the lift pump.
Has anyone used this set up?

 

[dbrannon79]

I think @MrMarty51 might have installed this for his new engine for the fuel pressure gauge. you will be pulling the hose off the fitting in photo "Z22", then installing an adapter that replaces the hose barb. issue is with your current hose routing under the intake you will have to re-route it and move the filter unless there is a way to extend and loop the hose. it's a tight bend in that area.

I will let Marty and Will explain it all better.

 

[MrMarty51]

Sometime tomorrow morning I will get a picture of the riser I built to lift the FFM filter. But I dont remember if Your unit has the FFM or if it is a different sort of a fuel filter.
I sent to Leroy Diesel and got his feed the beast FFM filter housing and his lift pump relay system, has the air bleeder switch option.
With the FTB kit he provides a fitting for the pressure fitting that screws into the IP and a 6AN fitting that screws into that fitting.
I went the usual sources and acquired the swivel fitting with the 1/8th NP threaded bore in the side of it for the FP sending unit.
As @Will L. (IIRC) suggested, a sending unit pre FFM and a sending unit post FFM and a toggle switch at the gauge to toggle from the pre to post or post to pre sending units.
That is how I set up My FP gauge.
Works mighty slick but the post FFM sending unit sends out wonky signals as the gauge bounces around when reading post FFM gauge.
With the FP gauge set up in such a manner, after getting base line readings, pre and post, then if the post pressure begins to fall off, it is most likely time to change fuel filters.

 

[Will L.]

Here is a picture of Tad’s.
Idk if he bought the fitting from MM or what. Also a video of his Hummer. P400, normal ds4 ip. Mechanical fuel pump (which I personally do not recommend wether ds4 or db2-but wish I could). Note the light fluctuation in the reading. This is good to know. A snubber gives you the average but you are better off seeing what the ip is actually getting imo whenever possible.

 

[jrsavoie]

I belong to a sight called Trek Tracks. They have a search sight just you at " Truck Stop".
I found about four fellows that have the same problem on the first start up of the day.
One had the 60G's....he found that turning the key on and wait for the glow plug light to go off...turn the key off....then wait for around 5 or 6 seconds and do the same thing over. As soon as the glow plug light goes off- start the engine.
I tried this and it does start faster. And when I use this procedure on "any first start up of the day" it works...no matter how many days goes by before I start it again.
I hope this continues to work from now on. I'm sure it's the new 60G's that need that little extra time that the glow plugs light up to start the engine without all the grinding.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Next question:
I'm still looking to set up the fuel pressure gauge with the "T " fitting after the fuel filter.
Has anyone done this job that can send a picture of what it looks like at this point...before the wires will be run out of the dog house to the gauge I'll mount on the dash somewhere.

dbrannon: These two pics are from the same picture you sent back to me as the place to put the the fitting. Did you mean Z22 or Z222??? I'd rather put the fitting on pic Z222 (this is the place where I did the clear hose testing for bubbles..and you said I can't use that place...can you explain why? ) With no bubbles and clear fuel running through the hose- I would think this would have pressure?? Maybe I'm wrong??
I still don't have any idea how this big the "T" fitting is. I asked if anyone could take a picture of their installation that would give me an idea of it's size .... so I can figure out where it's going to fit?
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Next question: I understand that there is a 'lift pump relay modification" in order to take the higher current off of the internal oil pressure sender contacts and let those control the relay that actually delivers the higher current to power the lift pump.
Has anyone used this set up?

On every 1995 and older I have had.
It's not necessary on 1996 and newer trucks and Suburbans, that already have a lift pump relay.

I don't know about campers
It certainly would hurt nothing, might be necessary and might add prime when the glow plugs are on or something else desired - such as an on/off switch for diagnostics and priming the fuel filter in your application

 

[56pan]

Buy a Powermaster gear reduction starter. It's one of the best things you can buy. Makes starting the 6.5 fun again!

X2 on the Powermaster.

 

[Bezzer]

jrsavoie...On my 1996 motorhome diesel engine .....I do have a lift pump relay.

Thanks to everyone for sticking with me to help with my on going project. I'll be anxious to see MrMarty51's pictures...including his gauge set up.

 

[Bezzer]

Sometime tomorrow morning I will get a picture of the riser I built to lift the FFM filter. But I dont remember if Your unit has the FFM or if it is a different sort of a fuel filter.

I'll be anxious to see MrMarty51's pictures...including his gauge set up.

Now that the holidays are over...I'm getting back to Mr.Marty .
MrMarty51: I do have the FFM filter. (see picture attached)
If possible I'd like to see a picture of your set up of your pressure gauge and brand name.?
Also, is it liquid filled?