usanumber1
Well-Known Member
Pulled it apart, this is the main cylinder/bore seal. I think this is the culprit. I put a new one back in, but I blew out the seal I just replaced. Nailed it. New booster it is.
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99 Suburban 6.5 to 5.9 Cummins Swap
- Thread starter usanumber1
- Start date
usanumber1
Well-Known Member
Installed new booster last night, went to install (after store was closed), pedal was kicking back, pulled out of shop slowly into empty parking lot, no brakes. Oh good. Removed master cyl, looked in booster, there was no spring, rod, or spider retainer. Oh. Good. Luckily I got to o’reilly just now, they let me get the old one. Installed, now I brakes, but the pedal is soft. Regardless, it stops and doesn’t lock up.
now I need to find out why my damn rear seat heater hose is leaking. I hate coolant. Gets everywhere. Makes the biggest messes.
now I need to find out why my damn rear seat heater hose is leaking. I hate coolant. Gets everywhere. Makes the biggest messes.
usanumber1
Well-Known Member
Lots of good news. Got brakes working, spent $100 on brass fittings for my heater lines, and had my exhaust finished. Still loud, but not like a dump truck.
Attachments
FellowTraveler
Well-Known Member
I used your washer reservoir idea, ordered a used one today because I could not find a new one...anyway, it solves the problem posed by having to remove the original one...
usanumber1
Well-Known Member
Ok, brake experts. I moved out of town, and left the truck at a Cummins shop to give it an general mechanical inspection before I drove it to my new home out of state.
brake system specs:
GM Hydroboost booster
GM PS lines
GM Hydroboost pump
Wilwood MC
Wilwood prop valve
All new brake hardlines
Basically new soft lines at knuckles
All new Ford D60 brake assembly parts
They’ve been addressing the brakes, and it’s still locking up, but only the fronts. The prop valve is set at approx 60F/40R. The tech was saying that he doesn’t think it’s the booster because if it was the booster, all of the brakes would eventually lock up, I agree with that assessment. Ideas?
brake system specs:
GM Hydroboost booster
GM PS lines
GM Hydroboost pump
Wilwood MC
Wilwood prop valve
All new brake hardlines
Basically new soft lines at knuckles
All new Ford D60 brake assembly parts
They’ve been addressing the brakes, and it’s still locking up, but only the fronts. The prop valve is set at approx 60F/40R. The tech was saying that he doesn’t think it’s the booster because if it was the booster, all of the brakes would eventually lock up, I agree with that assessment. Ideas?
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Do they lock up and any pdeal pulse or does pedal drop when it occurs?
The booster, master, prop valve, and caliper shoe disk set up is all a moot point. You should be able to have no rear axle brakes and the fronts still not lock.
The abs unit reads the tone ring teeth via the sensors and when it locks up, the tooth count is off from the formula and should cycle abs. iirc it is a 3 point system where each front is controlled and the rear axle controlled. But the 2 fronts feed info and one bad sensor can tell the module to do both the same to avoid pulling to one side.
Guessing you already threw a couple new front sensors at it. Next is plugging in the ol computer to read what is happening with the sensors when it occurs. Make sure the signal of what is happening is actually getting to yonder software to decide when to cycle and a what rate. ABS parts cannon is common even in dealerships back then. It was bad enough that AM General using most all gm stuff in hummers went to land rover for the abs. Not any better btw, just different problems. Anyways, the fastest solution in shops was parts swap. Countless people got new abs units and a reflash only to return in a few weeks.
The booster, master, prop valve, and caliper shoe disk set up is all a moot point. You should be able to have no rear axle brakes and the fronts still not lock.
The abs unit reads the tone ring teeth via the sensors and when it locks up, the tooth count is off from the formula and should cycle abs. iirc it is a 3 point system where each front is controlled and the rear axle controlled. But the 2 fronts feed info and one bad sensor can tell the module to do both the same to avoid pulling to one side.
Guessing you already threw a couple new front sensors at it. Next is plugging in the ol computer to read what is happening with the sensors when it occurs. Make sure the signal of what is happening is actually getting to yonder software to decide when to cycle and a what rate. ABS parts cannon is common even in dealerships back then. It was bad enough that AM General using most all gm stuff in hummers went to land rover for the abs. Not any better btw, just different problems. Anyways, the fastest solution in shops was parts swap. Countless people got new abs units and a reflash only to return in a few weeks.
FellowTraveler
Well-Known Member
Did I read correctly, FORD frt ABS rings are installed? If so, then it is doubtful the ABS controller in a GMT415 can be calibrated for "brake to tire size". If I remember right (old dustbin memory) that feature was only available on GMT425 and higher truck models "but" that Burb had a 6.5td maybe it can be calibrated. My Burb has this feature and I had accessed it through the device controller in the CAR CODE ODB2 software and adjusted to the 295/75/16 tires and perhaps TEC2 but I am thinking the TEC2 had a cutoff for larger tire sizes.
FellowTraveler
Well-Known Member
Any update?
FellowTraveler
Well-Known Member
You finished your move yet and did you get the brake issue resolved?
FellowTraveler
Well-Known Member
Any drone in exhaust?
Husker6.5
135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
"These are not the drones you are looking for."
FellowTraveler
Well-Known Member
OK, I had a brain fart again, "does the exhaust drone?"
Husker6.5
135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
It was a play on "These are not the droids you are looking for." Obi-wan Kenobi to the two Imperial Storm Troopers on Tatooine.
FellowTraveler
Well-Known Member
Went over my head...however; there is today a market for combat integrated androids...
usanumber1
Well-Known Member
Left the truck at a shop in SD to figure it out. They did, it was the rod from the booster impacting the master cylinder, some washers used as spacers fixed it. Shoulda tried that first, womp womp.
Down pipe is solid, no drone.
abojt to order some Cummins performacne parts: GSK, plungers, etc.
truck rides great, been daily driving it, just waiting on front driveshaft and output flange from HAD, and it’ll be golden.
Down pipe is solid, no drone.
abojt to order some Cummins performacne parts: GSK, plungers, etc.
truck rides great, been daily driving it, just waiting on front driveshaft and output flange from HAD, and it’ll be golden.
Attachments
FellowTraveler
Well-Known Member
How is that Beast going?
usanumber1
Well-Known Member
I don’t have much a place to work on it right now after the move, so it’s been at a shop for a few weeks, at the back of the line, with a laundry list of little detail stuff that needed to be buttoned up. Also, I didn’t want to do it.
I’m not too concerned, I have a work truck as a daily.
it was up on the lift today, so I’d expect to get it back next week.
I’m not too concerned, I have a work truck as a daily.
it was up on the lift today, so I’d expect to get it back next week.
usanumber1
Well-Known Member
Got the truck from the shop Wednesday. Advanced timing to 18*, GSK, delivery valves, AFC Live. Cruisin around for about 30 mins. Pull off to screw around with the AFC Live, notice light smoke from tail pipe. “Is it lean? Wtf?” Gets worse. Pop hood, see oil bubbling from top of turbine housing, small crack. Then I realize seals are blown. Limped it home and it sat until this afternoon when I towed it to my office.
Just pulled turbo and the tail pipe had a bunch of oil that poured all over my chest when I disconnected it from the down pipe. The HE351CW has blown seals, inducer scored the compressor housing, shaft play is cartoon level. Not sure what caused it. Didn’t push engine really hard at all.
Sending it back to the builder tomorrow. I hope I get a new one comped, as this one has about 700 miles on it. If the dude says “tough shit”, which turbo do we recommend?
Just pulled turbo and the tail pipe had a bunch of oil that poured all over my chest when I disconnected it from the down pipe. The HE351CW has blown seals, inducer scored the compressor housing, shaft play is cartoon level. Not sure what caused it. Didn’t push engine really hard at all.
Sending it back to the builder tomorrow. I hope I get a new one comped, as this one has about 700 miles on it. If the dude says “tough shit”, which turbo do we recommend?
Husker6.5
135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
Old, used turbo or a bad rebuild on that one? Those HE351's are a pretty decent turbo and should be able to handle what you're throwing at it. Hope it all works out for the best for you.
usanumber1
Well-Known Member
Fresh rebuild. My exhaust manifold is twin volute/scroll and the turbo is open. I can’t imagine this would cause such a catastrophic failure. The drain is -10an and goes directly into the pan.