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'99 K1500 with, yes, a stalling problem

C

Chasman

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Location
NY
Ugh, this truck.
When I've warmed it with the block heater and also made sure it's fully charged up, it starts right up. And it'll run fine for 10-15 minutes until I think it gets just warm enough and then it feels like it's running out of fuel. It chugs and misses and then dies. It happened today and I turned the key off, turned it back on and the lift pump ran for 3 or 4 seconds and stopped, and i tried to start it - and it started right back up. I turned it off as I was where I needed to be.
When I drove back home, I didn't dare take the parkway or the busy road, so I took a back road. It got me 10 minutes of a 12 minute trip, then started losing power and died. I waited a couple of minutes and it started back up, went 3/4 of a mile and died again. Two more episodes like this and I was home. I parked it. Ugh.
I have a remote PMD with heat sink and have tried a different PMD without the remote - same result. I have cleaned electrical connections. I have changed fuel filters, of course. I have removed the plunger in the fuel shutoff solenoid. I tested fuel pressure last week and had one psi so I changed the lift pump. Now I have 5psi. Same result, though. Next, I guess, is OPS. And then the dreaded filter sock.
Anybody with experience like this or other ideas?
 
You May be having air in fuel problems. Need to put a 1/4” clear hose on the IP return and check for air bubbles while the engines running.
 
It could also be the tank sock is clogged up. After you do the clear tube, if you don't see bubbles it is probably a clogged tank sock (filter). You'll also want to add your signature in your profile with everything about your truck so it automatically appears in all of your posts like at the bottom of mine. It allows us to see what you have in order for everyone to better help you. I have had my baffle come loose and bend the fuel sending unit up so it would only use 1/2 a tank then suck air.
 
Rodd said:
It could also be the tank sock is clogged up. After you do the clear tube, if you don't see bubbles it is probably a clogged tank sock (filter). You'll also want to add your signature in your profile with everything about your truck so it automatically appears in all of your posts like at the bottom of mine. It allows us to see what you have in order for everyone to better help you. I have had my baffle come loose and bend the fuel sending unit up so it would only use 1/2 a tank then suck air.
Click to expand...
Thanks, I'll add the details.
I'm hoping for bubbles at this point so I can leave the tank where it belongs. But I know it's well up the might-have-to-do list.
I will let you know about bubbles tomorrow.
 
PM sent, I'm working on Long Island this week, Hauppauge and east towards the Hamptons. Not promising anything but, if possible, I'll try to make some time. I may not be of great help but, a second set of eye's can't hurt.
In the meantime, how much of 'whoosh' sound do you get when you remove the fuel cap? There should be a little but, not a first time opening a pickle jar type of vacuum seal break. Too much vac. and the LP is fighting a losing battle. None could be an indicator of air getting into the system but, not definitive. Too much to hope for that its as simple as a malfunctioning fuel cap vent.
 
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Center of pic you see the injection pump. See the clear line coming off it to the fuel return rail? Parts removed for clarity of picture... :wideyed:

IMG_20181110_213433647.jpg
 
The new LP, is that stock LP? If you use stock LP get one from 93 model year which EP158 or equivalent.
Even with a new LP, you have to test it.
How is the fuel filter?
On a 99, OPS should not be an issue in running the LP unless it is really bad.
This issue is only for before 95 model year.

Also try to put the PMD directly on the stock cable to eliminate the extension as a culprit.
Assuming you have the PMD extension cable.
The PMD used is also very important, make sure the spare is KNOWN WORKING not something you put as spare because it was not working before.

As with any problem like this, you need to load test the batteries one at a time.
We have a member here that changed everything including IP only to find out that the batteries were the culprit.

Basic needs to be tested first!!!!
 
Some great details that I haven't run across before - thank you.
I finally got the clear tube attached to the return - thanks WarWagon - and it showed a pretty clear blue with no bubbles . . .at idle. I asked my wife to hold the revs at 2000 and after 10 seconds, that pretty blue turned white with all the bubbles. Looks like we might have found evidence of the problem . . .
 
Leaking hose clamps. Kinked fuel hose, yeah inspect every inch of the fuel line from the IP to the tank for a kink. History: Took me over a year of trouble to locate one... Any restriction will boil diesel in the system and show up as air. Plugged tank socks are one possible restriction. Have you seen silver streaks in the fuel filter from tank lining lately? That will clog a sock and sock bypass.

How old is the fuel filter? Fuel smell like gasoline? Any water? IE pump some from water drain and let settle in glass jar to check for water blob.

Gelling/Waxing... How cold is it out and is the fuel filter manager heater working?

Clue time. At 2000 RPM what was the pressure at the water drain? 0 on some gauges can be a vacuum. If you have PSI and bubbles the problem is likely between the FFM and IP. (incl Filter as water drain is before the filter)

Plain old sucking air for a leak will be before the lift pump. Common for rust pinholes on top of the fuel tank in fuel pickup assembly.
 
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