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98 Tahoe 6.5 egr delete and some questions

Gekkoen

Gekkoen

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Norway
I'm planning on swapping my "S" intake for an "F" when im installing the a-team turbo i have ordered.
so im trying to plan it so i won't run into anything unexpected when im doing this, so there wil be quite a few questions questions.

i already have the lower intake here and an upper is in the mail,
the lower i have is in good shape except for one of the outer mounting holes that is snapped of.
and i am thinking i have to get it welded, so that's my first question, how weldable is the manifold material?
1F4A2505_zps109ce755.jpg

1F4A2507_zpsd4963775.jpg


The lower gaskets i got has these tiny plastic screws included, what are they used for?

being a 1998 the upper radiator hose is running over the front drivers side intake runner, can i swap the manifolds without draining coolant?

i have been reading, and found that some of the bolts going into the heads need thread sealant, what type should i use?

should i use threadlocker on the other bolts? if so, what strength?


that should be it for now,
i'm sure i will be back with more q's :p
 
No need to weld. I have put many on with broken tab. Just use a large washer. The plastic tabs are to hold the gasket in place. There are small holes in the head that they will snap into. No need to drain if you use a swivel to get to the bolts. No thread locker.

Sent from my ADR6350 using Tapatalk 2
 
vegtech said:
No need to weld. I have put many on with broken tab. Just use a large washer. The plastic tabs are to hold the gasket in place. There are small holes in the head that they will snap into. No need to drain if you use a swivel to get to the bolts. No thread locker.

Sent from my ADR6350 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Agree, you should just need the swivel for the driver side front bolts. Leave the egr vacuum valve hooked up and you will not have any codes. I had a tahoe once and I did this worked great. Miss it, they are nice trucks.
 
Thanks to both of you for you answers,
Throwing codes won't be an issue, as it has an F pcm in it already
 
I don't believe the intake studs go into any water jackets, so you will not need thread sealer.
 
Hey there, on my Tahoe I simply removed the 'webbing' material. It provided a huge uptick in air delivery to the engine. I'm not even sure how much improvement you would see from putting in an F intake.

-Rob :)
 
I'm not expecting much or anything from replacing the lower intake, but i don't like the thought of the carbon gunk in the lower intake being there either.
now i already got the lower intake and gaskets so i'm going to replace it when I'm doing the rest :)
 
After a weekend spendt standing on my knees crouched over the engine, I finally have the non egr intake and the ATT installed.
It's quite a lot stronger above 2000 rpm now, and it sounds much throatier now than before.
There is only one thing I couldn't get done and that was the pcv tube. Does anyone have any suggestions on how I should route it to the air intake?
 
Use the stock intake set up. Unbolt the air filter housing from the fender and let it move over to the turbo, There are a couple of holes in the fender well already and one of them will line up. If not, simply drill another hole in the fender well and secure the air filter hosing in it's new place. There may be a slight gap at the fender where the air feeds in from the front but it won't be enough to worry about pulling in hot air from the engine compartment. Winter's coming anyway and warm air would do the motor some good. If you are concerned about it, you can fab up a doughnut out of 3/4" (or metric equivalent) hose or hard packing material, etc. This was my solution using another air cleaner designed for the GM-x turbo that didn't line up after installing the ATT.
DSC01343.jpg
 
NVW said:
I don't believe the intake studs go into any water jackets, so you will not need thread sealer.
Click to expand...
You do need sealer on 4 of the studs. There's is an installation sheet for the lower intake someplace that shows which bolts/studs get sealant. I use locktite on the bolts that do not get sealant
 
http://www.justanswer.com/chevy/1u4mo-torque-specs-6-2-6-5-intake-manifold.html#ixzz3OZ7DJ1k1
1988 thru 95 are the same then the spec changes by 1 foot pound Diesel Engines

Fig. 11: Intake manifold bolt tightening sequence-1988-95 diesel engines
  1. Remove the air cleaner assembly.
  2. Remove the alternator rear bracket.
  3. Remove the EPR/EGR boost solenoids and bracket.
  4. Tag and disconnect the Crankcase Depression Regulator (CDR) hose.
  5. Tag and disconnect the EGR and crankcase vent hoses.
  6. Remove the intake manifold bolts. The injection line clips are retained by these bolts.
  7. Remove the intake manifold.
  8. Fi


Read more: http://www.justanswer.com/chevy/1u4mo-torque-specs-6-2-6-5-intake-manifold.html#ixzz3QKXrEmH3
 
I've never had any leak they're all dry. Otherwise you'd have to drain the antifreeze to take off the lower intake. Which I never have.
 
Have to pull one of those bolts out and start the engine. See if anything comes out. I've always heard there were 4 bolts that you had to out sealer on. I never heard why. I just assumed it was for coolant
 
only 4 bolts I can think of would be the cover plates for the water crossover. and they're not used in the intake manifold
 
In the book i borrowed it said bolts 9, 11, 13 and 15 are exposed to the crankcase and therefore needs sealant.
i did put sealant on them, even though i didn't see any on them when i pulled them out.
 
The book is correct. Wet with oil not coolant. See where I put the red wire through to show the holes go into the oil area. It needs a sealant there. I use permatex "the right stuff" for all my sealant areas and gaskets. It is the only sealant approved for all locations by all manufactures.
image.jpg
 
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