• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

98 Chevy A/C clutch problems

J

jlpollard

New Member
Messages
3
Reaction score
0
Location
United States
My air quit working so I thought it would probably just need a recharge since I've never had to do anything to it.
The pressure is actually fine but I noticed the clutch cycling on and off repeatedly.
What should I start looking for to fix it?

Thanks
Jim
 
Ok...update.
The switch didn't do it.
I hooked up a pressure gauge and it reads 0 when the AC is on and the clutch is engaged.
With the AC turned off the pressure is 60lbs.
So I can assume it's holding pressure, at least on the low pressure side.
When it cycles, the clutch is not engaged until the pressure builds to about 50lbs.
Then the clutch kicks in for a second or two and then disengages when the pressure drops again.
If I jump the low pressure switch the clutch stays engaged but the pressure stays at 0.

Any ideas???

Jim
 
jlpollard said:
Ok...update.
The switch didn't do it.
I hooked up a pressure gauge and it reads 0 when the AC is on and the clutch is engaged.
With the AC turned off the pressure is 60lbs.
So I can assume it's holding pressure, at least on the low pressure side.
When it cycles, the clutch is not engaged until the pressure builds to about 50lbs.
Then the clutch kicks in for a second or two and then disengages when the pressure drops again.
If I jump the low pressure switch the clutch stays engaged but the pressure stays at 0.

Any ideas???

Jim
Click to expand...

It's low on charge. The low pressure switch opens at 20 and closes again at 50 so it is working like it should be. And running it at 0 means little to no refrigerant is circulating and also means little to no oil which will kill your compressor in short order.
 
I would suggest you borrow, buy or otherwise obtain a leak detector. Without the proper tools and system charge the system simply doesn't work very well. Leaks mess with the system charge. Leaks can also let oil out of the system. A low charge will starve the compressor for oil and it is only a matter of time before it locks up with debris in the system.

The minimum you need to do is check for leaks. If the leak is on the low side air and moisture can be drawn into the system. This will ruin the accumulator. It also ices up the orface tube. Iced up orface tube means the system quits cooling and the high pressure switch trips till the ice melts.

You could put in a full charge and have it leak out in 30 days or less. These systems do leak through the compressor shaft seal and slowly through hoses. So if it has been a long time since the system was serviced you could get lucky and just need a charge. These systems are charged by weight - pressures only indicate problems as a general guideline. Low freon with a system that cools is starving the compressor for oil.

Likely the high side valves, compressor, condenser, or old hoses are leaking and need repair.

Sometimes a estimate from a shop as to what needs to be repaired is a good path to take esp without a collection of AC specific tools.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top