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98 Burb Hrs vs Miles and what's it worth ??

94,000 divided by 11,000 = 8.545 mph average. Non stop idle for endless hours. I wouldn't touch it unless you want to replace every rotating component and accessory one after the other.
 
True to a point. Heavy Equipment runs 24/7 and the engines do wear out. This is start up no oil wear vs wear with full oil pressure.

However no rust means the bolts will come off when you replace every rotating component. - That hasn't already been replaced or rebuilt.
 
I'd be concerned about excessive idle, especially if it is non high idle and not so much from an ancillary wear point of view but as I intimated in my first post from an issue of ring seat etc. Like I said see if you can ascertain if she has blowby/is an oil burner.

As to how many start ups even with all those hours very possibly comparable to a true hours 100,000 mile engine. Furthermore truth is when we normally buy a vehicle we have no idea what the hours are, a 100,000 mile engine does not simply equate to say 2000 hours. Could be that you are buying from say a mainly city driver (low speed) only who loves to sit around idlling to keep the AC/heat going etc and you'd more then likely never know. Granted though 11,000 is up there. Having said that I work on stuff that has a veritable crapload of hours on it (50 years or more) and am not really scared by that, it's all about the history of those hours.

As to all those rotations and general wear well she is very possible in no worse a shape than another similar aged 100000 plus vehicle and as Kenny is intimating may very well be well maintained. Lets face it seems to me for any vehicle more than 10 years old replacing ancillaries is just part of the game.

Bottom line proof of the pudding an all that, I expect Kenny that if you get a good look at her and any records you'll know what she is worth or worth touching come to that.

Cheers
Nobby
 
Our trucks don't have the digital odometer. At least my 96 and a few friends 97s that i see regularly do not. The only thing my trip button does is clear mechanically reset the trip meter back to all zeros. I think that was an 01+ feature, or perhaps the new body style that started in 98 for the 1/2 tons and 01 for the rest.



Kenny if it was idled without the high idle the engine's probably not as healthy as you'd think. A friend over on the other site, WhiteK2500, bought his truck(98 rclb 6.5) with a dead engine from a welder who let it idle every day. The idling killed it, since he never did anything else with it. WhiteK2500 had to rebuild the entire engine himself after buying the truck. Not sure about the belt driven accessories as i never asked, but those are cheap compared to an engine rebuild.
 
I should have gone a step further to say the hour meter only works if your odo is digital. I'm pretty sure my '97 Tahoe and '99 Yukon had that. I KNOW the 2000 2500 PU had it.
 
OK, Plot thickens...Truck does NOT start. GM dealer they sent it to said needed an IP(Probably PMD). Truck has high idle setup. I seriously doubt a dead IP would cause a sudden no start. A dead IP usually give signs way before that. I'm betting it needs a PMD. It had FP at the drain hose but batts were not strong enough to crank it over.
 
Sealed bid. I have to bid what I think it's worth and maybe I'll get it, maybe I won't. Probably needs a PMD. I have a spare one but If I unplug it from the one on the pump to test I doubt I'll get the plug back into the IP.
 
Give a bid on what you think a rust free rolling chassis is worth. The rest is a bonus.
 
Exactly. This way if I buy it and the motor is total junk I can yank the 6.2 out of my rusty 90 Burb and dress it with 6.5 goodies. It will be an easy swap as the motor has the late model heads. I'd probably redo the HG's again even though I just did them. I am forever sold now on ARP studs. I will never do another HG job any other way.
 
NVW said:
Give a bid on what you think a rust free rolling chassis is worth. The rest is a bonus.
Click to expand...

Scrap value diesel PU here is $1000 at auction no matter what you pull out of the wrecked radiator, bent frame etc. $1500 if it may run with only batteries. Asking $1800 200K mi with blown engine or trans.

You may be bidding against a junkyard.
 
275k miles but that is only on the motor The rest of the truck has 94k. I can always rip the motor out of my 90 and drop it in. The frame is shot anyway.
 
This truck if I get it will replace my current burb. I love my current one and it runs great but unfortunately it is succumbing to cancer. The chassis is rotted and the truck does not have OD which makes a 60 miles a day commute tough on fuel. The current burb has a 6.2 but it's a late model one so it has short straight injs so the DS4 should AFAIK bolt right on with the rest of the 6.5 goodies.
 
Acesneights1 said:
This truck if I get it will replace my current burb. I love my current one and it runs great but unfortunately it is succumbing to cancer. The chassis is rotted and the truck does not have OD which makes a 60 miles a day commute tough on fuel. The current burb has a 6.2 but it's a late model one so it has short straight injs so the DS4 should AFAIK bolt right on with the rest of the 6.5 goodies.
Click to expand...

You may have to wrap the turbo manifold with header wrap as the 6.2 heads I have seen are a snug fit with the turbo manifold/heat shield/injector lines.
 
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