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97 k2500 Chevy 6.5 Dead HELP!!!!!

Diagnostics:

1] Starting:
1a] Does the engine start? _____No____
1b] Does the engine crank over? __Yes______
1c] Are your batteries fully charged? ____Yes_____
1d] Have you removed, cleaned, and tightened all battery connections? __Yes______
1e] Does your Wait to Start light come on for a time? How long? __Yes 10sec_______
1f] Does your glow plug light come on? _________ For how long? _________
1g] Do you see smoke from the exhaust while cranking? What color? ___no_____
1h] Does the Service Engine Light Glow during Start/bulb check? _yes_______

2] Fuel Issues (if not running):
2a] Can you hear your lift pump working? ___yes________
2b] Do you get a steady flow of fuel from the water drain (T-handle) ? _yes________
2c] Loosen the inlet line from the IP – is fuel coming out (Lift Pump on)? ___yes________
2d] Loosen an injector line and crank the engine - does fuel come out? ___yes______
2e] Do you hear a vacuum (hiss) when you remove the fuel cap? ______yes_____

3] PMD / IP Issues
3a] Location of PMD (on pump, on intake, remote mounted) _____rermote______
3b] Condition of Extension harness (if used) Vendor or Homemade? __vendor_______
3c] Condition of grounds / ground wires to IP / PMD. Check Harness. __good_______
3d] PMD Make: __Not sure__from diesel care_______
3e] PMD Age: _____new________

4] Stalling Issues
4a] Do you experience stalling only when hot? __4a-4h not relevant__________
4b] Does it stall under particular circumstances? (ie hit bump, or on accel) ______
4c] Does pouring cool water over the IP seem to help with restarting? _________
4d] Is stalling momentary (engine recovers)? _________
4e] Does SES light come on when engine hiccups? _________
4f] Does cruise control quit working when engine hiccups? ___________
4g] Does re-starting seem to reset engine, restoring cruise and power? _________
4h] Changes to dash lights or instruments during stalling events? ___________

5] Running Issues
5a] On cold start, does upper rad hose get hard before engine warms up? _______
5b] Any bubbles or oil film in coolant overflow tank? _______
5c] Any white slime on oil surfaces (dipstick, CDR, oil Fill cap)? __no________
5d] Excessive white smoke from exhaust on cold start? ___no______
5e] Excessive black smoke from exhaust under hard acceleration? __no________

6] Performance Issues
6a] Do you have gauges (boost, EGT) ? _____no______
6b] Maximum boost under load? ____________
6c] Have you added a performance PCM (reflash) or Chip? __no____________
6d] Have you changed exhaust / downpipe / crossover? ___no_____________
6e] Wastegate – mechanical or vacuum (OEM)? _____OEM_________

7] Temperature-related Issues:
7a] Single or dual thermostats? ____dual________
7b] Have you replaced them lately? Manufacturer of replacements? ___yes______
7c] Have you pulled and cleaned Radiator and coolers lately? _____tes_______
7d] Have you replaced the fan clutch? Manufacturer of replacement? __no______
7e] (winter) Have you tested your antifreeze? Good to what temp? __Florida 50/50________
7f] (winter) Are you using a winter grille cover? ___Truck has new IP, OPS,CKP,_PMD, Glow Plugs & Lift Pump_______has terminal no start...

List and describe any other factors which are not addressed in this checklist. We can’t see, hear, smell, or touch your truck, so the more descriptive information you can give, the more likely it is that somebody can assist you. OK we have checked all electrical values wiring & grounds .. Tank & lines all cleaned.. clean fuel to injectors. Will not fire. No smoke while cranking, lots of blow by, Diesel in oil from cranking ... Has timing gear set ..appears to be in time .... during pump replacement we discovered the nut on the pump gear loose .... not off just loose ... gear tightened easily & marks line up ... we appreciate your help..... John B

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"during pump replacement we discovered the nut on the pump gear loose .... not off just loose ... gear tightened easily & marks line up"

That throws up a red flag for me. I not sure but if this has a keyway (which it probably does) and is sheared the pump timing (not engine timing) will be out. That nut should never have come loose without a reason.
 
Loosen/remove/replace/drill a hole in your fuel cap untill you get it running.....It's a real long shot but, too much vacum in the fuel tank has caved/deformed a few tanks in the past.

Wait for a couple of the Guru's to check the list.....Keep the faith!
 
Hey Louis: I don't think either pump is/was bad ... & we are pumping fuel so? I'm not sure where to go next here ... I think pull the front cover & double check the key in the cam .. Seems like years ago I remember working on a marine engine with the same symptoms & it had the distributor in 180 degrees off .... Your Thoughts?????
 
Lenders Marine Services said:
Hey Louis: I don't think either pump is/was bad ... & we are pumping fuel so? I'm not sure where to go next here ... I think pull the front cover & double check the key in the cam .. Seems like years ago I remember working on a marine engine with the same symptoms & it had the distributor in 180 degrees off .... Your Thoughts?????
Click to expand...

Too deep for me :rolleyes5:......Wait for the calvery to check the list...:grouphug:
 
"Hey Louis: I don't think either pump is/was bad ... & we are pumping fuel so? I'm not sure where to go next here ... I think pull the front cover & double check the key in the cam .. Seems like years ago I remember working on a marine engine with the same symptoms & it had the distributor in 180 degrees off .... Your Thoughts?????"



Mudbath said:
Did it run before all parts installed or are was all this done for trouble shooting. Could the IP gear to Cam gear be out 180*?
Click to expand...
Quite possible as pointed out here!):h
 
If it is not even firing on ether (with glows disabled) then the problem is in the physical timing....

Compression check out ok?

Worry about getting it to fire on the ether and then go from there....

Obviously you know to keep the glow plugs completely disabled while testing this out..
 
I vote for timing or compression as well. If you are getting fuel to the injectors, the electronics are fine. I also agree that the loose retention bolt on the cam is suspect. As far as the key, I believe it is a half moon. If memory serves me correctly, when you put a new timing set in, you turn the crank 360* (cam is turned 180*) and then the IP gear is lined up. Does this sound like the procedure you followed when you installed the new timing set? If not, you may have the timing 180* out as you have already alluded to.
 
I bought this truck used 4 years ago with 113000 miles on it. It is an "F" code late 97, has dual thermostats & an updated cooling fan. Checked GM & it had a new pump at 103,000... It now has 178000. This problem started with a friend dumping 5 gallons of supposed Bio Fuel in it without my knowledge and believe me it has been downhill from there. I was not aware of the gear set until we opened the engine up. When we did I found the Cam Gear bolt backed out until the head was against the lower case. The gear slid back easily, the timing marks lined up & I tightened the bolt. I should have checked to make sure it slid back on the woodruff key. Big Mistake!! What you know does not get you in trouble .... it's what you think you know ...
 
Wow LMS;

I'm late to the party guys been a lot of happenings at work my apologies.

What is the position of the fuel shutdown solenoid at present time, if it's pointed about 12 oclock orientation that should be sufficient for base timing to get you started.

Loose cam nut is worrisome you may need to pull the front cover to verify timing gears are not off the mark, so long as they are correct IP will match up when you install it, you would just then need to move to advance retard slightly to advance/retard timing

I've gotta run, I'll be thinking on this some more, my manuals are in Ms, Im in Ga but will be home end of next week, I'll see if I can get a couple of other folks who have been busy as well or genereally MIA for a while to weigh in that might have some words to lay on you as well.
 
Lenders Marine Services said:
This problem started with a friend dumping 5 gallons of supposed Bio Fuel in it without my knowledge and believe me it has been downhill from there.
Click to expand...

Are you sure you are getting fuel and not junk to the injectors? You may want to take a sample from the water drain off of your fuel filter manager to ensure that there is decent fuel getting to the IP.
 
Lenders Marine Services said:
JMJ.net; Not so here, you should be able to unplug the Optical Sensor & start the truck in a standby mode right? Also in the alternative you should be able to start the truck with just the Optical sensor .... again, in the standby mode .... We have gone through every check list about 20 times installed 2 different new pumps, 2 new PMD's (one was bad) and then checked every circuit for proper electrical values ... ie PMD, OPS, CPS, Glow Plugs etc. Same with the all the grounds... Thanks for the try .... it all helps
John B
Click to expand...

I'm pretty sure at all times you have to have a crank sensor input, been a while since I've read up on it, unplugged optic puts you into a limp and you can limp home, lose crank sensor and you are finished for the day, but they are pretty robust and rarely fail.

You said new IPs new new or "used but good" IPs, and if "ubg" did you install the correct model IP
 
qwomack said:
Are you sure you are getting fuel and not junk to the injectors? You may want to take a sample from the water drain off of your fuel filter manager to ensure that there is decent fuel getting to the IP.
Click to expand...


Good catch Q, to rule out "junk in the trunk...I mean tank" make a temporary pickup fitting to suction side of your lift pump and pull from a fresh 5 gal jug of regular NR2 Diesel
 
TD - it is not even firing on ether.....sounds like more of a timing or compression issue....no?
 
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