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97 chevy crew cab freon capacity

Trucker2k16

Trucker2k16

Well-Known Member
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Location
Charleston south Carolina
Hey guys i need a little help my 97 chevy crew cab k3500 i just replaced the whole a/c system i put in two 12 oz cans but can any one tell me how many oz it takes i some what recall 36 oz. But ill post pictures none on the lines are froze the low side is cold and sweating like normal with my thermo scope the low side temp is 60 degrees all the way to the evaporator which that is 55 degrees i have 47 degrees coming out vents im wanta make sure i dont over charge with freon thanks and happy 4th of july no the line is not froze my flash was on thats it sweating.20200703_190024.jpgreceived_281480476289046.jpegreceived_1362731887266452.jpeg
 
Undercharge will starve the compressor for oil as it gets trapped in the evaporator. Add another can! It's 36 OZ. Write this on the firewall above the accumulator. GM's stupidity to put that sticker on the accumulator, a common replacement part, was just that.

Chevrolet Light Truck Refrigerant and oil capacity charts || TechChoice Parts

Oil and refrigerant capacity table for Chevrolet light trucks
www.techchoiceparts.com www.techchoiceparts.com
 
Last edited:
WarWagon said:
Undercharge will starve the compressor for oil as it gets trapped in the evaporator. Add another can! It's 36 OZ. Write this on the firewall above the accumulator. GM's stupidity to put that sticker on the accumulator, a common replacement part, was just that.

Chevrolet Light Truck Refrigerant and oil capacity charts || TechChoice Parts

Oil and refrigerant capacity table for Chevrolet light trucks
www.techchoiceparts.com www.techchoiceparts.com
Click to expand...
EXACTLY; what were they thinking w/that location?
 
Thanks man i thought it was 36 oz just couldn't remember
WarWagon said:
Undercharge will starve the compressor for oil as it gets trapped in the evaporator. Add another can! It's 36 OZ. Write this on the firewall above the accumulator. GM's stupidity to put that sticker on the accumulator, a common replacement part, was just that.

Chevrolet Light Truck Refrigerant and oil capacity charts || TechChoice Parts

Oil and refrigerant capacity table for Chevrolet light trucks
www.techchoiceparts.com www.techchoiceparts.com
Click to expand...
 
The freon capacity of a 97 is ZERO, the REFRIGERANT capacity is 2.25 lbs or 36 oz of r134a. Depending on replacement parts used, that amount can vary quite a bit. I like to charge by temp myself. Get it close to the states capacity, then put it on the 2nd fan speed, outside air, and set your charge so it cycles off right around freezing running 55-60 mph. Undercharge will give warm air running down the road and starve the compressor of oil, slight overcharge will lead to the evap freezing up running down the road, and gross overcharge will kill your compressor from liquid slugging.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
The freon capacity of a 97 is ZERO, the REFRIGERANT capacity is 2.25 lbs or 36 oz of r134a. Depending on replacement parts used, that amount can vary quite a bit. I like to charge by temp myself. Get it close to the states capacity, then put it on the 2nd fan speed, outside air, and set your charge so it cycles off right around freezing running 55-60 mph. Undercharge will give warm air running down the road and starve the compressor of oil, slight overcharge will lead to the evap freezing up running down the road, and gross overcharge will kill your compressor from liquid slugging.
Click to expand...
Its been pretty cold thankfully today i forgot i had ac and my son in back seat said daddy u got ac now lol it took no time to cool off the cab after a 20 min drive without had it on high and with in a 1/4 mile i had to turn it down to fan speed 2 to keep it cool
 
Well guys im back with the same issue after another whole new system i was idling today and the high pressure blow off valve went off for psssstttt i shut off ac instantly wth will cause this? I have a hayden 2886 fan clutch im at a lost thanks20200811_181309.jpg
 
You need to charge according to the chart. Like Ferm mentioned, component size changes slightly and the volume inside can change a lot.
When ever there is any a/c issues the questions are #1 action once you know it is not air flow (blower motor) related is put gauges on it. High side, low side, and ambient temperature.

Doing the electro viscous fanclutch that ak diesel driver shared would help with a/c because you can use the a/c to turn on the fan. Not saying that this will solve or even help your specific issue this time- you NEED the pressure readings. But something to consider for the future if you are trying to get it to work the best you can.
 
After several failed attempts of trying to figure out AC systems, I finally made the decision that I can do only so much, such as replace components but, when it comes to charging the system, i take it to a little shop across town. he dont charge a whole lot so i always leave Him with about a 20 dollar tip.
I am wanting to get My truck to Him, it doesnt seem to cool down real quick, when it is near 100 degrees outside, it takes about a half an hour to 45 minutes to get it cooled off inside.
 
Will L. said:
That’s not a happy find.
Click to expand...
No by no means i dont get it 36 oz on freon and 8 oz of pag 150 vacuum for 4 hours while waiting on freon i let it sit for 3 hours before i put freon in amd yes i bled the center line of air could it be that the low and hi side hoses are having air in them are you posed to bleed them to?
 
Yes bleed them also. But really when you vacuum it down with both open it should eliminate that.

Mute at this point. Now it is rip out the receiver/dryer (always done with new compressor) for replacement, full flush, and try again.
If you aren’t 100% the coils are being flushed all the way, out them too.

When you vacuum down, do it for a full hour to be 100%, then close valves and leave it for another hour. Both times are longer than normal but you need to do some fine tooth comb action here.
 
Your high side cut out switch is bad or "missing". Possible the surge diode in the clutch (or diode in wiring harness) is bad causing the switch to weld itself shut. The switch should have tripped the compressor off before the relief valve opened.

High pressures over it's design limit will ruin a compressor because it's also overheating. High pressure = high temp.

You ran it with a low charge how long? This will starve a compressor for oil.

The bigger problem is overheating at idle. Not enough fan on the condenser and it's overheating. Move an oil cooler and get the aux electric fan on there that comes on with the AC clutch. Further a low temp fan clutch like the Kennedy Diesel fan clutch helps. Bluntly the Hayden 2886 fan clutch ain't good enough. Take your IR gun and use it on the condenser. 160 F is the upper limit of overheating. Look at the R134a pressure chart at 160 = 300 psig. 172 is 350 psig. 180 degrees the system is near failure reaching 400 psig. ~450 psig things are blowing up or the emergency vent pops.

Did you flush the AC system parts you reused from the last failure?

Are you using a krap Murray brand Communist China Compressor? Read the online reviews. There are good and bad compressors out there.
 
WarWagon said:
Your high side cut out switch is bad or "missing". Possible the surge diode in the clutch (or diode in wiring harness) is bad causing the switch to weld itself shut. The switch should have tripped the compressor off before the relief valve opened.

High pressures over it's design limit will ruin a compressor because it's also overheating. High pressure = high temp.

You ran it with a low charge how long? This will starve a compressor for oil.

The bigger problem is overheating at idle. Not enough fan on the condenser and it's overheating. Move an oil cooler and get the aux electric fan on there that comes on with the AC clutch. Further a low temp fan clutch like the Kennedy Diesel fan clutch helps. Bluntly the Hayden 2886 fan clutch ain't good enough. Take your IR gun and use it on the condenser. 160 F is the upper limit of overheating. Look at the R134a pressure chart at 160 = 300 psig. 172 is 350 psig. 180 degrees the system is near failure reaching 400 psig. ~450 psig things are blowing up or the emergency vent pops.

Did you flush the AC system parts you reused from the last failure?

Are you using a krap Murray brand Communist China Compressor? Read the online reviews. There are good and bad compressors out there.
Click to expand...
All new acdelco parts i even flushed everything when it came out the box. I have 2 high pressure switches one on compressor and one on hi side line i dont think i have the diode on neither plug on compressor. My snap on IR gun read temps of 125-130 on hi side the compressor it self was 110 on temp i didn't run it but probably 5 mins just long enough to put 2 cans in and didnt use it any more than that untill i put the 3rd can in
 
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