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'95 with no power to LP

"Why would you short the wires at the OPS? Are you just trying to get the LP to run? "

Yes, I used it to check out the LP. And I have not plugged in the OPS yet and my GP light only stays on about 5 seconds before going out. I think I should have more heat time at 25 deg. out, shouldn't I?

I have not checked any of the GP or their wiring, that's why I inquired about if the OPS has any connection to the GP's.

I think I need to check the CTS connection also, correct?
 
While fixing the Injector, you may want to change the GP at the same time. Yes, it should stay longer, but you still needs good GP. Get the Bosch Duraterms (the best and heat up fast without burning) from RockAuto. Your GP controller/relay may be bad also. It should give some afterglow when it is cold.

You may want to leave the 12V direct source to the LP. If your OPS is bad, LP won't run. There is no connection between OPS and GP. At least not that I know off.
 
Your Glow time is based on battery voltage, and coolant temp sensor and intake air temperature.
These will cause glow time to be short:
If battery voltage is high, like on or just off a charger or alternator when running
block heater on
warm air temp in intake, or miscalibrated IAT sensor
warm coolant, or miscalibrated CTS sensor
cycled glow already

The time should have nothing to do with the Glow Controller, just the PCM and factors prior to it starting the glow. The PCM sends the signal to the controller to make it glow, and cuts it out when it wants it to stop.
 
buddy,
I got this thing going a couple of days ago w/o being plugged in. I had to cycle it 4/5 times and it was near 38-40 deg. but it started.

I'll do as you suggest. Plug in the block heater for a couple of hours, and check the CTS wires.

I started a new thread about fuel leaks. I replaced the return lines on the drivers side. I left the LP on accidentally for 3 hrs. There seems to be a "fuel stain" on the gravel in front of the truck. It's been too wet and cold to do too much with it.
 
Yes the danger of just jumpering the LP out, it runs all the time. The OPS gets power straight from battery.

If you want to see your max glow time just unplug the IAT and CTS. And start it up.

At about 40F, if you ohm the sensors out, each should be 7000-8000 ohms, I attached the temp to resistance table
 

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I'll check out the two sensors and see what happens.

I'm going to order GP's and get in there and replace return lines and GP's. Is there a part number or model number for the Bosch Duratherms?
 
Best not to worry about it and just get the Bosch Duraterms or ACDelco 60Gs. You can probably find either at parts stores, vendors here maybe, and then anywhere online, I bought mine on Amazon. All others are unreliable too often.
 
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