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95 k2500 followed me home

As far as the boost goes I've seen as high as 16, but egt will climb rapidly to 1100 . At that point I get out of it. The truck doesn't really blow any smoke unless its on the performance tune , then its smoke and egts I don't like.Johns tune is the real deal, its has been alot better on this truck with the ds4 and tune than on the old db2 truck. max boost is around 3200 and doesn't really start until around 22-2400. As far as the 3 codes mentioned earlier , had a fuel leak at pump, fixed that and it cleared up. No codes since. i hope to figure this out the cheaper way, if not I'll get a turbo and have John adjust the tune.
 
Buying the triple clutch stall yank converter that warwagon is currently selling (or a new one) is a good possibility to help then. This is because the 16psi with the volume the ATT is pushing is a descent amount of air.
(If you are doing that on TTY head bolts and or high mileage stock head gaskets- that would scare me.)

So you are pushing enough air to until the performance tune which is then pushing more fuel than the turbo, heads, valves, exhaust system can flow. Having a higher stall forces the rpm up into the power band of the turbo much sooner. While this system doesn’t work for everyone like myself (wanting descent power and movement of the rig before 1100 rpm for off roading) if the bottom end rpm can be given up- it will help you here. The higher stall basically is a stop gap for a wastegate.

In the end, if the performance tune can push more fuel out the ds4 than the ATT turbo can supply, I would really begin to suspect head flow is also a limiting factor.

The tune can ease the fuel at bottom end and put a wonderful curve to it’s increase opposed to a db pump which is more a dump the bucket method. But when you outrun capacity on a ds4 pump- you left a lot on the table for a hot rod.

The egt is simply because you cant burn it fast enough in the cylinder and it is getting burned on its way out, or it is being pushed out the valve in such volume it hasn’t had time to dump its heat into the piston, head, and precup.

I remember talking to Heath years ago about 1100f egt and asking how far he felt it was ok for a stock built 6.5 to drive at that temp. His response was “To the moon.” I never panicked on it but was searching others opinions at the time. True the cooler the egt and combustion chamber, the easier it is on everything. But if you are playing with these boost numbers and that much fuel- you already know you aren’t being easy on anything- haha.

Seriously 1100,1200 going across the valve edge means you’ll need a valve job 10% sooner if you do it all the time. That increase in heat also beats up the edge of the turbo blades to cause sooner wear. The other part of concern is the crack spot between the valves.

All this is quite acceptable if you only do it once in a while. If you’re doing it all the time, properly built heads becomes much more important.
 
Really havent been doing much to the truck lately. I still dont feel that this is a good combo, but havent decided what I want to do with it.To me the egts get to 800 with part throttle by 40 mph. Very little smoke on 3 of the 4 tunes, only the performance tune produces smoke until the turbo spools up. I had hoped to put truck together in hopes of using this truck to tow our travel trailer, but to this point i have been using our 04 F250 PSD. Taking the trailer to South Dakota next week , so it will be a little longer before anything happens to the 95.
 
War Wagon ran His exhaust temps at 1500 or slightly over and had no issues with turbo or engine components. It was after I read that that I gave up worring about a close to 1200 EGT.
@WarWagon I`m once again using Your stuff. LOLOLOL
 
plumbtuf said:
Yeah, that's what I keep hearing don't worry about it . But doesn't he blow alot of crap up.
Click to expand...
Its a tough job but someones gotta doooit. LOL
That He may, but, I do not believe his engine failures was caused from running hot on the EGTs, I may be corrected if I am wrong.
 
MrMarty51 said:
Its a tough job but someones gotta doooit. LOL
That He may, but, I do not believe his engine failures was caused from running hot on the EGTs, I may be corrected if I am wrong.
Click to expand...
It's not that the high egts , it's the rate at which they rise before the truck starts to get going. Sometimes I'm pushing 16 to 18 boost and 1100 at 60 mph. It just seems off to me. Maybe I'm wrong. But it seems wrong.
 
So the hard start saga continues. For the life of me i cannot figure out the timing on this truck.It seems to run ok ,but any start produces large clouds of smoke.I know the timing must be off, but any button i push time set/tdco learn and the truck dies. Right now the FSO is all the way over to the drivers side . So at this point i think I need to move the pump back to the passenger side and try again. Should I bring up to temp push time set, let truck die , move pump rch and start again. THen once it runs with time set , push tdco and got from there? Here are some pictures of reading from this last weekend. Thanks for the help. IMG_20200112_095206046.jpgIMG_20200112_162927892.jpg
 

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Here is a screen shot of the timing numbers before activating time set. Do these look strange or out of whack to anybody. Now with the temp over 170 when i push the time set button the the numbers bounce from 2.0 to 3.6 . Then it dies. numbers where 0/3.4/1.50 .The physical position of the pump is to the drivers side. there is about 3/8" between the fuel solenoid and the tstat housing. it seems to far over to the drivers side,(based on the look of it).But looking at my notes from getting it running it wouldnt start straight up, not that means much cause i got no clue whats going on. my next question is about the time set screen, before time set is activated , the actual timing and desired are at 9.7 does value change with the position of the pump ? Does it advance from there with throttle? Does moving the pump lower/raise this value?
 

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its been awhile since I've been on here, but its time for an update. The truck had been running good then it started acting up. Broke down on a camping trip expensive tow later we got the truck and tow home. it had towed the trailer over Kenosha pass good, thought i had it going on. Once the truck was home pulled the codes and it may have been all of them showing up . Checked my grounds and it seemed better. Then a another tow bill later ,code 18 this time. I changed the optic sensor from a old running pump and it would at least idle, start up smoke was all but gone. That is until tonite, Now its throwing 18/17/54/58. I figure the pump is shot ( only a year old), but does the 54 code mean that the pcm is fried? The truck would die when i hit the brakes , before the second tow home. I dont know if that means anything , but maybe. I will have some time to work on it tomorrow , and hopefully it will end up being easy.( cause its always easy).not. Closing in on setting it on fire . may part it out , tomorrow will tell.
 
Dang, too bad its too far frm Denver. Thats where I am at right now. BIL said it would be quite a journey.
Probably wouldnt be much help but could heckle one another while trying different things to get it back on the road again.
 
i have started the pump swap. Its going slow, the leg is still not all the way back. The vertical creeper helps, dosent take years off the body or make me see better. Anyway I have a moose jr pump that I will be using. What is the maximum inlet fuel pressure for a db2? I have a quadstar pump that is set at 12psi ? And want to use that. What have guys been using for transmission controller? Us shift, Ez-shift, painless has a system too. I have a 4 position tuner for a 95 k2500 for sale and a ATT turbo , if anybody is interested.
TIA
 
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