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95 K1500 starter run away.

T

TnJoe

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Hi gang. I'm new to the forum and new to 6.5 turbo. I have spent several hours reading but can't find anything on my problem. I bought my k1500 about a month ago and the problem started about 2 weeks later. The previous owner put new batteries and new starter on it about a month before I got it. He said when he removed the old starter the only problem was a loose connecting but he put the new starter on anyway. I have had the starter off 3 times and bench tested it with no problem. It has a 0.060” shim in it. Once you engage the starter with the switch the only way to stop it is disconnect the battery. I have tried shifting it to reverse and drive but it still turns. And even stranger, before the engine would start with about 2 turns of the engine but when it hangs it won’t even attempt to start. I have done everything I can think of but nothing good yet. Any suggestion would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.:mad2:
 
So is it staying engaged in the flywheel or is it running like you still have the key in the start position?
 
It’s a new starter and I opened the solenoid and the contacts look nice and shiny and it bench tests ok.
 
So to verify that really is an electrical problem disconnect the power to the starter if it still sticks without power than its a mechanical problem ie shims etc
 
If all looks good try without shims 1st, also easier to work the starter if you haven't done it already, pull out pass side inner fender, takes about 10 minutes, plus you can do general housekeeping chores: gnds, glows, rubber injector return jumper lines, starter brace (is that on still), without it, may cause a sag of starter and broken block, turbo bolts, downpipe clamp, crossover bolts etc while u are in that area.
 
If you disconnect the battery it will disengage the starter and reconnect the battery and hit the starter it will hang until you disconnect the battery again. If it’s a mechanical problem as easy as it is to start why does it not try to start?
 
The other thing that should be happening if it was selenoid sticking is usually the starter will keep running until you disconnect it from power ie battery
 
I have tried with and without shims and the brace is on now. When the other guy changed the starter he left the brace loose. And I removed the pass side inner fender first time I removed the starter.
 
Bench test looked good. I talked to the guy i bought the truck from and he still has the old starter he took off, hes out of town now but when he gets back home he will give me the old starter to try. Its the starter that was on the truck new for 153,000 miles.
 
I would suspect the ign switch then been told the 95 and newer were failure prone but I've never had any problems with mine. One way you could check would be to remove the wire on the selenoid from the ign switch and see if it stops the starter. If it does it could also be the reason it doesn't start when cranking. good luck
 
double check your block to make sure it isn't cracked if it ran without the brace (not related to this episode but you need to know for future),

with starter out put long jumper wire on ign solenoid control wire & with meter in cab put ign in crank position the let come back to run, if it stays hot in run, the ign switch is bad
 
I forgot to mention we replaced the ign switch with a used one from a 98 suburban that was wrecked in 2001 with very few miles on it. I think I will try the old starter and if it still hangs I will shell out the $140 for a new switch. We replaced the switch before I started reading here and removed the steering wheel with lots of work just to get to it.
 
I will check the solenoid control wire tonight (why didn't i think of the before ??) sometimes we try to make a simple problem to complex. But now this old man has a dr appointment and I will report back tonight. Thanks
 
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