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93 TD HARD COLD START WITH LOTS OF SMOKE

Be cautious on $ spent and long drive you don't want to walk back from. Diesel smell in the coolant is not a happy sign. and with 240k on it, a simple rering and headgasket job may not be the answer.
keep an eye on the temps- over 210 is problems. You could run a coolant system test for head gasket/ cracks but kinda why at 240k? so I say run her till she dies.

On the above info from Roy: a bunch of us did some testing a while back of the different inline stock style lift pumps. Airtex was the only ones to hit 14, while the AC Delco EP 158 frequently hit 13. but the life span of the Delcos lasted much longer. best is absolutely using better pumps. Most important is a 'T' at the ip inlet for a pressure gauge you can see while driving.

both ds4 and db pumps will draw past a dead liftpump, but the ds4 can wear quicker and not draw through. big warning sign new pump shopping time is upon ya.
 
Will L. said:
On the above info from Roy: a bunch of us did some testing a while back of the different inline stock style lift pumps. Airtex was the only ones to hit 14, .
Click to expand...

Exactly what I found and then four Airtex units later - even the Airtex units would not hit 14 and keep it past a few days.

The design is a failure - a SPRING is not a fuel pump. On the last two I got one said made in China and other said made in Mexico on the UPC label

Both the DS4 and DB2 WILL draw past a dead OEM lift pump as the check valve is made that way, but if you shut off a DS4 based vehicle if you do not have pressure at the IP it may certainly NOT start again.

After switching to the Rotary Vane Immersion pump - no problems for over two years now
 
It runs rough and smokes cold and hot just sitting still at higher rpm.and puts out a big puff when you get to the point where it is not under a load or desell.I am going to replace the lp . thank you for your help.I will check and fallow your advice
 
snarl95 said:
Part number please.
Click to expand...

You have to build it yourself what I have

You do not have to cut the OEM fuel lines. Use 3/8 flare to 1/4 npt adapters and put a larger o-ring over the OEM fuel line at the end - you will have to source the best size o-ring - in the flare side over the OEM fuel line, and 1/4 npt side goes into the pump. Put a one-way check valve on the outlet side so the pressure stays at the IP when you shut it off. O'rielly sells a nice one I used but it is a bit pricey part number Z13041 at about $15.00 - and a close nipple to attach it to the pump and then a barb to a fuel hose or solid line if you want to make one to loop around and just above the pump a 1/4 union or what have you and another 3/8 flare to 1/4 npt adapter to connect back to the OEM line. For power use weather proof of your choice barrel and pin connectors to cut your existing line - and that way you can put connectors on both the old OEM pump and the new one - and if YOU HAVE to - you can just unplug and replace the OEM pump back in - usually in the same holes. Put a sheet of rubber under the pump mount to keep it a little quieter from the motor echoing through the chassis. The Airtex unit below may not come with a mounting kit though the Airtex website claims it is supposed to have one. use the pigtail connector to plug in the new pump - and if you put ends on the old OEM style plug you can switch back at a plug in or out swap. I then bought a cheapo 4 to 6 psi unit for emergency replacement if the good one ever failed for $35 off ebay search " Electric Fuel Pump E84070N P4070 " on eBay - they are about 35.00 delivered. If you get an Airtex unit and it has not mounting setup - the one from the above eBay unit will work. The unit above is an emergency replacement unit only - or for the pump mount kit.

When you first turn it on - bleed it by leaving the OEM to pump outset loose slightly and running the pump until the line pressurizes and drips fuel and then tighten at the outlet end where it reconnects to the OEM line

Start the engine and keep it above 1500 rpm and you should not have any air in the line - or it will go into the IP and out the top return valve quickly

Pump Carter P4601HP 10 to 15 psi or Airtex e8257 for 7 to 9 psi
 

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REB said:
It runs rough and smokes cold and hot just sitting still at higher rpm.and puts out a big puff when you get to the point where it is not under a load or desell.I am going to replace the lp . thank you for your help.I will check and fallow your advice
Click to expand...

You do not say if it is white or black true smoke - or what could also be steam from a coolant head gasket leak. I agree with NVW at https://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/93-td-hard-cold-start-with-lots-of-smoke.47715/post-564306 that you should do a compression test first. the smoking could also be a stuck open or unevenly spraying injector if not a - or the coolant leak
 
Well I finally gave up and went to a shop and it has a head gasket problem.They pulled the heads.They found that three cylinders had been getting water in them. They also said there was cracking between the intake and exhaust valves . Is this a common thing and can the heads still be ok to reuse
 
They also said there was some pitting on the tops of the Pistons. Not to badly .is this a real problem?
 
@REB What year is your truck again? Please fill out your signature with all the pertinent information, year, model, transmission, rear ratio, etc.

Cracking between the intake and exhaust valve seats is VERY common up through early '96 when GM finally tried to address the head overheating and cracking issues by going from the 80 to the 130 gpm water pump and the dual thermostat crossover, which helped but didn't really solve the problem until the 2000 balanced flow pump and Duramax fan. Those cracks almost always do, or will eventually, crack into the cooling passage between the valves. Look for light, white streaks coming from the crack(s) as an indication that coolant is leaking into the combustion chamber.

There are sleeve kits available to repair the cracks between valve seats but do NOT even bother to do that, it is NOT worth the labor time to repair shot heads that will most likely fail again, when you can buy a NEW, complete head with valves, springs, etc and more metal in the casting internally between the seats to prevent cracking into the cooling passage. New heads, new head gaskets and either NEW TTY head bolts (NEVER reuse the old ones) or ARP head studs.

Light pitting on the piston crowns is acceptable (boiling ethylene glycol antifreeze is very corrosive to aluminum and is what causes that) to run.

If yours is an early 6.5 block, you most likely also have existing main and/or cam bearing web cracks in your block, too. You might just consider a good, used military takeout motor before dumping a lot of money into this one, just to have a catastrophic failure a little later down the line if you plan on this one to be a "keeper".
 
Did the run compression test before pulling heads? Those numbers will tell alot of the real piston/rings/ valave conditions.

I find it VERY weird that you smelled fuel out the exhaust not coolant. Then didn’t have to frequently add coolant. Yet a blown headgasket that put coolant into 3 cylinders. As mentioned above the cracks in heads steam pockets can cause the burning coolant, but if it is enough to create the WHITE smoke (i never saw you answer what color question) you should have to add coolant every few days, or once a week.
The thing of shove a pipe in the head to stop the coolant into the head crack- and if you should just get a new engine:
You need to decide how much you like to gamble.
$9k for a new engine by time its all done vs bubble gum and duct tape but know you will have issues in the newr future.

If your broke, it was possibly a mistake pulling it apart, depending how much smoke. If your nearly broke- hell yeah shove the pipes in the head cracks! There is a thread on it here somewhere, I remember asking why they even do it- I figure thats a good affordable time buying fix. I look at these engines as 300,000 mile units. If amazingly taken care by the owner- 400,000. But there is some big costs at each 100,000 interval. If the engine was rode hard and put away wet, don’t expect 250,000.

Cheap way out- patch the head cracks, hand lap the valves, new valve seals new felpro gaskets and tty bolts. And take it easy.

How many miles do you need out of this engine?
How many times a year can you break down?
How much money to spend in the next month?
How much in the next 2 years?
How many miles you drive it and how heavy worked?
 
It's also quite possible (and more likely based on my own head woes on my 94 over a decade ago) that the heads cracked, PO added a stop leak (like Bars Leak, etc) to the cooling system which, didn't correct what was causing the head overheating issue (dirty/plugged up cooling stack, running hard and/or rich for prolonged periods, or just the generally poor cooling design) but did temporarily stop the head crack leak(s) and led to once again overheating, head warpage and multiple failure points of the head gasket with resultant coolant loss.
 
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