93 K3500 No Cranky....

[neura]

thanks for the info on the GP Relay to LP Relay Wire.. now can I figure out why I dont have a LP during WTS... on another note I went out last night to the truck -13c here last night and not WTS light... was there when it was in the heated garage... so looks like I am going to be doing GP's and a GP Relay. Cheapest I can find Duraterms here in town is $13 a plug and $86 for the relay. Anyone know of anywhere cheaper to get them in Edmonton?

 

[jrsavoie]

Cheaper ain't always the best option.

 

[neura]

replaced the ops and the glow plug relay... still have a hard start issue, but the glow plug light goes out a lot quicker now and then flashes after you start cranking.. not sure what that means.. the lift pump now runs when the engine is shutdown runs for a at least 30 seconds maybe longer. I need to do the actual test with it running to see if the lift pump is any good. So what does the flashing glow plug light indicate?

 

[buddy]

Is glo flashing after or during crank? It could be trying to afterglow, but its not starting so it keeps flashing. Afterglow helps the intial seconds of idle so it runs smooth, so you dont get cylinder imbalances and such.

 

[neura]

flashes during crank and also after the truck starts... takes a little bit for it to start flashing during crank. I think I will be doing the glow plugs this weekend on it.

 

[jrsavoie]

flashes during crank and also after the truck starts... takes a little bit for it to start flashing during crank. I think I will be doing the glow plugs this weekend on it.

Be sure to use antiseez lubricant when replacing the glow plugs. I also pull the glow plugs every 2 years to visually inspect them. If they look iffy I throw them away and replace them.

 

[neura]

Replaced all eight glow plugs with Bosch Duraterm 80034. Truck starts like a champ now almost instant usually around a 1/2 a rotation. I also ended up replacing the fuel heater seal and the water in fuel sensor o-ring as before I did the glow plugs went to start it one day when it was in the garage and puked fuel all over the floor. (Thinking the fuel heater seal was the spot I may have been sucking from air from into the fuel supply). Now to fix the heater motor so it has more then high fan speed. Also had a full back window installed in to today just to get rid of the vapour barrier from where the previous company put a fork lift through the back window. So all total for the truck now:

Ryobi cheap table saw ($100 at home depot) was a freebe though on a 3 for 2 deal.
cost of gas to go get the diesel $120 (truck was located 2 1/2 hours from where i live)
ops $30
glow plugs $108
Seals from GM $9
Back Window Supplied and Installed $147
Peeling Decals (Just Labor)
Bottle of Goo Gone $7
2 new battaries $165
Glow Pug Relay $90
Converted Battery Cables to Marine Style $30
($10 for terminals, $20 for all the lugs, yes I used top post battaries and marine terminals, I actually have a couple of BH-31 Series Battaries from a F550 tow truck, but they are just a bit too big to fit in this truck, so I will repurpose them to the deck trailer for running the winch, next time I replace the battaries I will just get some smaller BH series ones)
Used gear Reduction drive starter $ 80 new solenoid $20 (still have the original starter, changed it before fixing the cables, so thinking it was probably not needed)

Grand Total $906

Still need to find some decent used tires around here for it, and a few other things.. needs a new tail light (I can get aftermarket for $60 for the pair) and a new tailgate and I can pickup one of the lund 5th wheel gates for $100. then a back bumper for another $40 for perfect chrome one. So considering this was a company fleet truck basically for $1100 I really cant go wrong with the K3500 extended cab long box Single Wheel

and most of the stuff was really just maintenace items

 

[jrsavoie]

Where do you find the Lund 5th wheel gates for $100?
I know somebody that needs one.

You sure do look stupid with that big crease in your tailgate. I feel like a fool.

 

[neura]

I have been finding lund gates on Kijiji for $100, not new but they are in perfect condition, and I dont mind saving a few hundred...

 

[neura]

Finally got around to taking some pictures of the table saw truck.... hauled a few cars now with it on the deck trailer etc, cut the old chev 1500 up into a utility trailer :redneck:, so I used the good tail lights from that truck, so that was a freeby.. the good back bumper from that truck is going on the K3500 until I can get around to welding up some Custom bumpers... need to put a brake controller in it yet, and a few other things, still need to find some used tires, and the beatup tailgate is going on the utility trailer...

probably time to start a new thread since the truck seems to be running okay, has a bit of a hard starting issue still if the truck sits for say an hour or two and cool down enough but not to the cold point, glow plugs dont come on so it takes a bit of cranking to get her going... (this is a new GP Relay, and new GP's). but after doing the towing etc, I am wondering if the turbo is working is there a good way to tell??

I am going to change the exhaust in the next little bit for a 3" setup from the turbo back, straight pipe, and install a K&N air cleaner. after that not sure what else to do to get the performance up a bit more, I was thinking of an intercooler so the turbo would work better...

 

[jrsavoie]

I have been finding lund gates on Kijiji for $100, not new but they are in perfect condition, and I dont mind saving a few hundred...

How do you search for them? What do you put in the search box to find them?
I get way to many results when I search.

 

[WarWagon]

has a bit of a hard starting issue still if the truck sits for say an hour or two and cool down enough but not to the cold point, glow plugs dont come on so it takes a bit of cranking to get her going... (this is a new GP Relay, and new GP's). but after doing the towing etc, I am wondering if the turbo is working is there a good way to tell??

I am going to change the exhaust in the next little bit for a 3" setup from the turbo back, straight pipe, and install a K&N air cleaner. after that not sure what else to do to get the performance up a bit more, I was thinking of an intercooler so the turbo would work better...

Starting issue can be a lift pump going bad. Clicking but no pressure. Mine would make pressure now and then and a was a pain to catch it not working. Tested with 7 PSI several times except just before I replaced at at 1/2 PSI. Hot start got so bad I was about to throw an IP at it as head and rotor wear can cause the hot no start.

K&N filter is a waste of money. Get a K-47 round filter unit from a junkyard. The K&N on mine was plugged solid and the dirt it let by is stuck to the turbo compressor vanes. The K&N plugs faster than a stock filter. Even the stock filters do not last long in the 1993 airbox.

Remove the snorkel in the fender: that will do way more than a K&N or removing the air filter...

Screw the Intercooler even if you trade a table saw blade for one. Get a Turbo Master and get the boost up to 14 PSI. Otherwise get an ATT turbo for the same cost of a 'new' intercooler. You need a boost and an EGT gauge. Boost gauge is the best way to tell if that quiet turbo is working at the factory 6PSI.

Open the exhaust up to a 3" downpipe and 4" all the way back. This is your best mod as hot air has more volume than the cold intake air. So exhaust does more than intake mods will.