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93 K3500 No Cranky....

N

neura

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Location
Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
So I am newbie to diesels and got a decent deal on a 93 K3500 with a 6.5 TD. The truck didnt run when I got it but I only traded a table saw for it. I charged up a couple of batteries I had in the garage and threw them in there and it cranked over but no fuel. I have been doing a lot of reading I put about 4 gallons of fuel in the tank and primed the system up via a jumper wire going to the grey wire on the fuel pump relay and 12V. Got fuel at the filter finally and no air. Cracked a couple injector lines over and started to bleed of the system. got most the air out now. But in the process of bleeding the system etc and recharging batteries the truck no longer wants to crank over, it gets the WTS light and that goes out, turn to start position and nothing once in a while a little grrrr or a slow start but most the time nothing, also it seems it drains the battaries from a full charge down to nothing in about 10 seconds.... not sure if I should look at the starter or the ign switch. The battaries do load test good but I will charge them up and load test them again to make sure (I can take the batteries out of the deisel and put them in some other vehicles and they crank all day long..... ) any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Clean all batt connections and grounds sounds like batts are toast have them load tested. Could be starter selenoid
 
Welcome.

I 2nd AKDD.

Got any pictures of the truck?

It would make for a entertaining topic to find out what the cheapest anyone has got a truck for (other than free) and/or what they traded to get it.
 
no pictures yet, I might have some from the ad I seen for it. Took a bit to get it winched onto the trailer and out of the whole it was in. The truck is in decent shape, new front end (balls joints, axles, tie rods) Needs tires and a back window. it is an extended cab long box, silver and dark blue. I am removing the company logos (pin stripe tape) from the truck currently. Other then that not a lot of rust, has a small hole developing on the rocker on the pass side under the extended cab portion. I figured I would get it to run first and take it for a spin before dumping a lot of money into it. that is why I was hoping I could just use some battaries from around the garage, etc. If the engine needs a rebuild I didnt want to spend a lot getting it running. it has 339,000 KM on it and I am told it ran like a top before it died. Looks like it has been sitting for a number or years. Nearest I can tell it died because it ran out of fuel and air locked the fuel system. I had the truck to the point of all most starting before the no crank condition happened. It would spin over and just about fire or fire for a second or two... so still a little air in it.
 
If the batteries load test good & the wire from the battery to the starter is good - they frequently corode inside where you can't see and will no longer carry the load- And your connections are good I'd get the starter tested
 
If your batteries aren't in good shape these trucks will drain them in a matter of seconds, lots of load trying to start a 6.5TD. When i got my '93 it had been sitting for about 18 months, i had a h*ll of a time getting it running. Drained 2 new 1100CCA batteries, it sputtered a little but that's all. I then charged the batteries up again, and ran them back down trying to start it. I got pissed off then, hooked my GMC 1500 to it with big jumper cables and gave it a little shot of ether - very very small shot. (i know your not supposed to do that, but at that time i didn't have anything to lose - had it 3 years since then and no ill effects from the ether that i can tell). It then started, smoked out the whole area running on what sounded like 4 or 6 cylinders. Once it ran for a couple of minutes, it started picking up cylinders one by one and after about 5 minutes it would actually idle without dying. My point here is if it sat for a while it may take some extreme measures to get it started, old fuel, junk god knows where in the fuel system..etc. Battery cables MUST be very very clean and in excellent condition, and both batteries in very good shape too.
Good luck
Don
 
If the bats drain in 10 seconds they are bad or you have a connection getting hot quickly. Monitor the voltage at the bat while cranking. If they drop with engine speed at 10 sec they are bad.

They check your wires and disassemble clean and reassemble the grounds at both ends. If all is good suspect the starter has burned up. A shorted starter motor can also kill the bats quick. A load test of the starter may be required. (Amp draw while spinning the engine.)
 
I got it from a guy who got it from the company so not sure on the exact reason, I was told it died and they couldn't get it going again so they just replaced it. from what I can tell it looks like they ran it out of fuel and air locked the system. But until I get it running I dont know what else may be wrong with it. It could have a dead turbo as there is a lot of oil / soot around the air cleaner and turbo tubes.
 
well spent some time this weekend and got the truck running. Adding a couple of gallons of fuel. New batteries from costco and put a used starter in it with the gear reduction drive. Modified the positive cable so they are using a marine style connection now. need to actually replace the cables with some new ones and some crimp down lugs... But it does run, lots of white smoke for a while, and then cleared up to nothing. can barely hear it run for a diesel when it is warm. moved it out of the garage and shut it off this morning and found that it took 30-45 second of cranking to get it started again after sitting for a few hours. Dont think there is air in the lines but not sure if the OPS and the lift pump are working correctly. I did jumper the lift pump and it does run, not really a humming noise though... kind of a tapping noise from the lift pump so it may be on the replacement list as well. ran the truck up and down the street for a bit, transfer case works for 2 wheel, 4 Hi and 4 Lo. grab 2 gerry cans full of diesel and put in some fuel conditionioner as well as some lucas top end lubricant for the injectors. since the truck was sitting for the last 3-4 years. so just need to finish solving the hard start issue the other thing that was noted is some black smoke under acceleration... might need to change the injectors out for new marine ones... but I will see what the fuel conditioner and top end lube does first... and then I can take a look at the brakes and see why next to no fluid for the rears and down on the fronts, could be a leaky wheel cylinder.
 
Im sure your glos dont work. And you can burn up a starter real quick if with cranking more than 20 seconds without a minute wait between cranking.

Check out the lift pump sticky, paying attention to the OBDI info in posts 29 and 30. Its supposed to work during WTS, crank, and operation.
 
thinking it may be the glows as well.... so looks like glows and probably do the glow controller just to be safe. are the instant heat ones from SS Diesel any good or would a standard replacement be good?? I am in Edmonton Alberta Canada and we can see temps down to -40 and sometimes colder with windchill....
 
I bought my Duraterms from NAPA for $11 or $13 ea., no exchange or shipping charges.
 
buddy said:
Im sure your glos dont work. And you can burn up a starter real quick if with cranking more than 20 seconds without a minute wait between cranking.

Check out the lift pump sticky, paying attention to the OBDI info in posts 29 and 30. Its supposed to work during WTS, crank, and operation.
Click to expand...

X2 on the starter use.

Correction, 1993 lift pump only works during crank (Fuel pump relay) and operation (Oil Pressure Switch.). There is no prime function during WTS, etc. Other years are different.
 
WarWagon said:
X2 on the starter use.

Correction, 1993 lift pump only works during crank (Fuel pump relay) and operation (Oil Pressure Switch.). There is no prime function during WTS, etc. Other years are different.
Click to expand...

93 does have LP function during WTS, or at least should. There is a purple/white wire that comes off of the GP controller that goes to LP relay to trigger it. It ties into the same purple/white wire that goes from crank fuse to the LP that is hot in ign start.

94-95 does not have this feature.
 
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