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93 6.5TD Running warm and other problems

badco100

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Im sure this problem is covered in some forum somewhere but I have read and looked for 2 hours now. Maybe someone can help.
93 6.5 TD 130000 miles. Truck has been running fine. I went to Atlanta last week and did a little hauling and on the way home that night I stopped and refueled. Toped radiator checked oil etc. Once I got back on the hwy (empty), I noticed that it was running warmer than usual. it normalt ran 180-190 and it was running 210. I thought maybe bad fuel or something but it slowly getting worse. I went on a short trip empty and it ran 230 most of the way. I noticed that if I stayed around 60 mph it would cool down to 210. If I drive it hard it jumps to 230. Ive noticed that the gauge will jump back and forth 30 degrees in a flash and back up. I replaced the thermostat and it made no diffrence. ive noticed that sometimes it doesnt seem to have alot of power. When I take off from a stop it hesitates then kicks enough to have to let off the pedal a little. I have also noticed the oil pressure gauge will spike every now and then from 40 pounds to 60 and back down. I guess I need to know if the WG or something is open a little does it cause it to get warmer? It also will surge when first cranking up. The exhaust is straight 4" Thanks for your help! Scott
 
No. I just cranked it up and it didnt get pressure for about 10 minutes as it heated up. I did notice something while I was tinkering on it. The little rod that goes from the exhaust side to the gold round thing. I take it that its the WG. I can push it all the way back and it will stay there. But I did work the throttle and watch it opening and closing.
 
Perhaps you have air in the system? Do you have a bleeder on top of the thermostat housing? How much coolant did you have to 'top off'? No A/F in your oil or out your pipe right?
 
Could replace the coolant temp sensor located on the drivers side head, 2 wires that go to the gague and nothing else. I had to replace mine 3 years ago, not to expensive, and if its original it may be failing.

Alternative method is to double check with a scanner for temp read through the ECT sensor.
 
My temp sensor just went on me also. Gauge was jumping up then back down then jumping up. New sensor was the cure. Cheap test.
 
"Toped radiator"

If that phrase above means you added coolant, then the early beginning of a head gasket collapse is not that bad a guess.

Unless coolant is leaking externally, or being allowed into the combustion chamber, there is never, not ever, any reason whatsoever, to "tope" your radiator.

Exhaust gas into the cooling system will be indicated by an increase in coolant temp, and coolant outta the exhaust.
 
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Yep, coolant loss is never a good sign. Get some AC Delco cooling tabs. If you dump them in now they could buy you 6 months to .....3 yrs on my 6.2 and it was still holding.
 
"Toped radiator"

If that phrase above means you added coolant, then the early beginning of a head gasket collapse is not that bad a guess.

Unless coolant is leaking externally, or being allowed into the combustion chamber, there is never, not ever, any reason whatsoever, to "tope" your radiator.
.

Laughin my ass off, then saw your edit comment... not sure why, but thats funny as all hell...
 
The radiator did have a leak and thats why I toped the radiator off. I added about half gallon. I had the leak fixed and now the A/F is full and stays that way. I have a Scan tool but it only reads the tranny computer. The engine is mechanical and not computer operated. There is no exhaust in the radiator and nothing I can tell coming out of the exhaust. It only heats up if I drive it hard. If the head gasket was going it wouldnt matter how hard I drove it. Unless deisel motors are diffrent from gas burners. Just keep in mind that it ran fine that night at 180 all the way from Atl to Cordele Ga. It only started running 210 after I got back on the Hwy. The other day it was running 230 until I slowed to 60. I stopped and checked the A/F and it was full. I drove it today and tried driving it easy and hard and the temp stayed around 210. It just concerns me that up until that night a week ago it always ran 180.
 
Could be that you have a build up of crap between the radiator and condinser that is blocking air flow. Very common on our trucks.
 
Changed the temp sensor and it no longer runs over 210. Still a little warmer than usual but makes me feel alot better. Flushing out the rad and gonna top it off. Will let you guys know. Thanks for the help so far....
 
Don't just flush radiator, remove it, scrub it with scrubbing bubbles or radiator cleaner, and reinstall. That or replace. Flushing without external cleaning is wasting your time.

Fill out your sig too, so whe know what where talking about.
 
I removed my rad yesterday and after straightening fins, started spraying, washing, washing, spraying...... Actually ran out of scrubbing bubbles and had to go for more. I can't believe the amount of CRUD that came out. Bugs, dirt, small stones, more dirt..... And not just from the rad. Between the trans and oil cooler and condenser as well. And I'm going to go out again this morn and do it some more... Honestly it didn't look that dirty to the naked eye to begin with, but WOW crud-city.

This particularly cheap, but time consuming little duty has to be ONE OF THE BEST THINGS YOU CAN DO TO IMPROVE COOLING IN OUR TRUCKS.

Keep smilin'
Art
 
I removed my rad yesterday and after straightening fins, started spraying, washing, washing, spraying...... Actually ran out of scrubbing bubbles and had to go for more. I can't believe the amount of CRUD that came out. Bugs, dirt, small stones, more dirt..... And not just from the rad. Between the trans and oil cooler and condenser as well. And I'm going to go out again this morn and do it some more... Honestly it didn't look that dirty to the naked eye to begin with, but WOW crud-city.

This particularly cheap, but time consuming little duty has to be ONE OF THE BEST THINGS YOU CAN DO TO IMPROVE COOLING IN OUR TRUCKS.

Keep smilin'
Art

When i got my truck it ran a little warmer than i would like, usually about 205F. I removed the radiator, tranny & oil cooler and cleaned the crap out of them with the scrubbing bubbles - the A/C condensor as well. The amount of crap that came out just amazed me as it didn't look that dirty!! I also installed a 180F thermostat as i live in Atlanta and it gets HOT here in city traffic. Since then, it's never went over 200F even pulling 10K lbs up/down the mountains toward Tenn with the A/C blasting and 100F outside. Best thing i've done and pretty much free was to clean those.
Don
 
OK heres the updates. Didnt have time to remove radiator to clean but did flush it out. I am going to get a new one because I dont like the looks of the inside of this one. Just got to find one less than 400 bucks! While I flushed....I turned the little T handle open at the water neck. After reading the post I saw one that showed how to test the LP. The truck shut down like it said and would not start back up! I replaced the OPS and ordered a lift pump. Came in today and installed. Truck cranks and runs fine. Heres the funny part......Im showing 80 pounds of oil pressure! Too much. Was 40 and would kinda bounce back and forth to 60 so thats why I replaced it. I went to parts store to borrow a sensor socket and broke the new OPS.......sooo got another while I was there and installed cranked truck and to 80+ it went. At idle it falls to about 70. Im beginning to think that I have a electrical short somewhere cause these are all new sensors and Im running out of ideas as to why they all are crazy lately. The temp doesnt go over 210 now but every now and then will fall to 180 then back up. This truck looks like it rolled off the factory floor inside and out so I kinda like it but to be plaqued with all these problems all of a sudden kinda makes me want to git rid of it!
 
If your OPS is not ACDelco, you will have that problem with the oil pressure gauge. It also will not last.
 
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