92 low voltage engine light flashing

[Will L.]

Buy this starter brace, it is the correct one.
Then with it in place, mark the block where the hole should be with a sharpie.
Remove starter so you have room to work. Center punch so your bit doesn’t slip and drill then tap the hole

Slow speed on the drill bits. The metal is hard from the welding, so use the best bit you can get- kobalt prefferably and don’t get the bit hot..

Too often with a broken rusted bolt, people get fixated on getting the old bolt out, which looks like what happened here. You just need a place for the bolt.



https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-GM-23502557-Starter-Bracket/dp/B00GV77H2U

 

[boss4457]

Is it even possible to get a drill in there i think i should grind those old welds off before i begin to drill

 

[Jaryd]

You will want to pull the inner fender out. It will give you a good bit more room. It’s not hard at all. Mines been out a couple times. I would grind the weld smooth and flush with tit on the block and then do like Will said.

 

[Will L.]

Yes- grind it flat before drilling
Just put reference marks so you get the hole exactly wher you need it.

 

[boss4457]

Ok thanks guys i will keep you guys posted the brace should be here next Thursday any particular size and thread pitch i should make the bolt

 

[Jaryd]

1/4 - 20 I think would be just fine.

 

[boss4457]

Anyone know the size and thread pitch of the original bolt? I broke of all the old welds trying to turn the stud out and theres still sum threads sticking out i was going to thead a nut on it weld the inside of the nut and try removing it that way. Its going to be really hard to get my drill up in there. Im going to have to cut the drill bit in half or a quater to get my dril in there

 

[WarWagon]

Pull the power steering pump bracket bolt from the other side of the engine block if you dare with the rust. It's the same bolt. Metric.

 

[smokymtn65]

If I remember it was 8mm x 1.25 x 18mm

 

[boss4457]

They welding idea didn't work so im going to buy a close quaters drill attachment

 

[boss4457]

Well guys I got that problem fixed. Soo today after putting my new alternator on that i had sitting in the garage the pulley nut came off and started making a grinding noise. So i figured i would baby it home. That didnt work the belt came off slit a hole in the lower radiator hose. So my question is is there a certain way to burp the radiator? Also is there a certain way to put the starter leads on the way i have it now the little nub on the big wire is almost touching the small start wire soldiering i think its supposed to go the other way i will take a picture and post it.

 

[WarWagon]

The alt pulley is specific to a diesel engine - KEEP IT! The ignorant parts store and more ignorant rebuilder will have a smaller gasser pulley that will throw the tach off. If you don't already have a gasser pulley from same ignorance chain GM started by having to make one fing part different for the diesel. Yes, we change it in the parts store making them demo their owns for sale tools. The electric impact is my favorite quick and dirty tool of choice for this.

 

[boss4457]

What size pully is it ?

 

[boss4457]

What size pully is it ? My old alt and new have the same size pulley

 

[boss4457]

Sorry for all the replies I figured out the sizes it wont really matter since my truck is a 92. Here is a picture of my starter lugs see how the big one is almost touching the small ones soldering.

 

[smokymtn65]

What size pully is it ?

My info shows 2.5in diameter for the 6.5

 

[JMJNet]

I am not sure if the 92 have the tach that needs input from the alternator?
If not, then I will just get a working alternator and don't worry about the alt pulley diameter.

 

[WarWagon]

My project 1992 work truck package had a tach, but, that may have been optional with it's other option packages like cruise, PW, and PL. No reason to let a antique and hard to obtain diesel specific pulley go if his is still the proper part.