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6.5T Newbie looks for wisdom.

Appaloosa

Member
Messages
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Location
Wisconsin
First off, thank you guys for putting together a great site!

I Rececntly aquired a 1995 6.5T suburban with auto. I'm having trouble with it randomly shutting down and missing/fish-bitting on me. The problem seems to be getting worse. I'm suspecting the PMD/FSD is to blaim but I don't want to overlook a "cheaper" repair -(OPS, Fuel pickup, etc.)

I noticed the truck will sputter sometimes when I step on it, Can this be a characteristic of the PMD faulty? or does a PMD usually totally shut you down and I have other fuel issues?

the PMD was replaced only 20K miles ago by the previous owner and is located on FSD heatsink on the intake manifold. Do they go bad that often? The old PMD is still mounted to the Pump.

I have not tested the Fuel pick up or OPS (oil pressure switch), cleaned the tank sock, or messed with the fuel filter or pump. I just wanted to see what you guys think to cut my troubleshooting time down as many of you seem to be 6.5 pros. maybe you can save me some time.

If I do need a new PMD which is the best one to get? Standyne? heath? I allready have a FSD heatsink but I will need to make or buy a ext. cable and driver. Is their anything I should consider for future performance upgrades concerning a new PMD? resistor?

6.5 Engine Diagnostic Troubleshooting Checklist

Problem: Explain your problem in concise language (ie: Cranks but won’t fire). ___________Random stall, chugging, sometimes won't start. sometimes 10min later it will start and run with out problem.

Demographics: tell us about your truck and your ambient conditions:

- Year: ___1995___
- Truck model and class (ie: c2500) 2500
- Automatic or Standard _____auto_____
- Mileage: (indicate miles or km) ____175K_____
- Replaced parts and mods (IP, PMD, chip/PCM, TM, injectors etc) _PMD, IP, head gaskets, OPS__________
- Model: ‘S’ or ‘F’ engine, NA or Turbo, EGR? ________F? it has turbo______
- Ambient outside temp: (indicate *C or *F) _____20*F_____
- What fuel are you using? (#1 Diesel, #2 Diesel, Bio, VO, WVO, etc) ____#2_____
- What fuel additives are you using? _____winter stuff at the pump______
- Where are you located? _____Wisconsin________

General maintenance: inspect and evaluate the condition of each. When were they last changed?
- Air filter ____3 mo. ago_____
- Fuel filter _____10/09____
- CDR Valve? ___?______
- Coolant – last flushed/replaced at ______?_______
- Oil – synthetic/regular, changed at _____Mobil 1 5W40______
- Batteries – state of charge, (matched set) replaced at ______2006 good yet_______
- Battery cables and grounds (removed, cleaned and tightened): _______good_______
- Glow Plugs - how many miles on them? _____8 60K____ What type? ______AC Delco_______
- Injectors - last changed at _______?________


History: (Describe how the problem first appeared.)
- What were you doing when it happened? _______driving_______
- How was the truck running fine before this problem appeared? ______yes_______
- Has this problem ever happened before? ________yes_______________
- Describe any related factors that might be part of the problem. _______changed oil cooler lines and oil recently and problem seemed to get worse, coinsidence? but problem was happening before_______
- Have you checked for DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Codes)? (Y.N) __Y__ And? _____manually with Jumper wire, seems to repeat 35, but it will repeat it more than 3 times___


Diagnostics:

1] Starting:
1a] Does the engine start? ____yes_____
1b] Does the engine crank over? ___yes_____
1c] Are your batteries fully charged? ___yes______
1d] Have you removed, cleaned, and tightened all battery connections? ____yes____
1e] Does your Wait to Start light come on for a time? How long? ___no?______
1f] Does your glow plug light come on? ____yes_____ For how long? ___ave. 3 sec.______
1g] Do you see smoke from the exhaust while cranking? What color? ___when it doesn't start no, when it will yes bluish_____
1h] Does the Service Engine Light Glow during Start/bulb check? ____yes____

2] Fuel Issues (if not running):
2a] Can you hear your lift pump working? _____yes_______
2b] Do you get a steady flow of fuel from the water drain (T-handle) ? ____havn't tried yet_____
2c] Loosen the inlet line from the IP – is fuel coming out (Lift Pump on)? ___________
2d] Loosen an injector line and crank the engine - does fuel come out? _________
2e] Do you hear a vacuum (hiss) when you remove the fuel cap? _____yes______

3] PMD / IP Issues
3a] Location of PMD (on pump, on intake, remote mounted) _____intake______
3b] Condition of Extension harness (if used) Vendor or Homemade? _____vendor good____
3c] Condition of grounds / ground wires to IP / PMD. Check Harness. ____seens good_____
3d] PMD Make: _____Standyne______
3e] PMD Age: ______2years old_______

4] Stalling Issues
4a] Do you experience stalling only when hot? ____no________
4b] Does it stall under particular circumstances? (ie hit bump, or on accel) ___no___
4c] Does pouring cool water over the IP seem to help with restarting? ____haven't tried_____
4d] Is stalling momentary (engine recovers)? ___sometimes______
4e] Does SES light come on when engine hiccups? ____yes_____
4f] Does cruise control quit working when engine hiccups? _____yes______
4g] Does re-starting seem to reset engine, restoring cruise and power? ____yes_____
4h] Changes to dash lights or instruments during stalling events? _____?______

5] Running Issues
5a] On cold start, does upper rad hose get hard before engine warms up? ___?____
5b] Any bubbles or oil film in coolant overflow tank? ___?____
5c] Any white slime on oil surfaces (dipstick, CDR, oil Fill cap)? ____?______
5d] Excessive white smoke from exhaust on cold start? ___?______
5e] Excessive black smoke from exhaust under hard acceleration? _____no_____

6] Performance Issues
6a] Do you have gauges (boost, EGT) ? ____no_______
6b] Maximum boost under load? _____?_______
6c] Have you added a performance PCM (reflash) or Chip? _____no_________
6d] Have you changed exhaust / downpipe / crossover? _______no_________
6e] Wastegate – mechanical or vacuum (OEM)? _____oem_________

7] Temperature-related Issues:
7a] Single or dual thermostats? _____?_______
7b] Have you replaced them lately? Manufacturer of replacements? _____no____
7c] Have you pulled and cleaned Radiator and coolers lately? _____no_______
7d] Have you replaced the fan clutch? Manufacturer of replacement? ___no_____
7e] (winter) Have you tested your antifreeze? Good to what temp? _____no_____
7f] (winter) Are you using a winter grille cover? ____no_______

List and describe any other factors which are not addressed in this checklist. We can’t see, hear, smell, or touch your truck, so the more descriptive information you can give, the more likely it is that somebody can assist you.

when engine stalls while driving it will shuf off the cruise if its on, and MIL will turn on sometimes stays on for minuets but usually turns off again soon.

Any help is much appreciated, thank you very much.
ps I have picture of my recect PMD setup if that helps in anyway
 

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FSD is strongly suspect intake is a bad place for it. talk to Leroy at pmdcable.com and he will set you up. Also OPS is a problem on your year, read in the tech library there's a good thread in there. I would throughly check out the LP/OPS and also put a piece of clear tubing on the return line on the IP to check for air in the system. You should also be running an additive in your fuel either 2 stroke or nd30wt.
 
If I read the date correctly your fuel filter has not been changed in over a year? I would start with that...

Changing the fuel filter will also provide you opportunity to check one aspect of yr lift pump (LP). On 1995 year ONLY you can check to see if your LP will pump by placing the gear shifter into any gear R or D & then have a helper turn the ignition switch to start, (with the motor off) the LP should run. You can determine only if the LP runs & pumps by doing this.

To verify your Oil Pressure Switch (OPS) is providing power after the truck is running you will still need to perform the T valve test with it at idle to see if the motor dies.
 
I Didn't get much time to check out the truck tonight but I did jump the LP at the DTC pin F, and with Crankme69's method of cranking the engine while in gear. I can hear the LP turn on which I will admit is a sound I don't think I've heard before. I also notice I do get a sucking sound when I open the fuel cap. So I'm assuming the pump is pumping fuel at least during crank. I probably also need a OPS, I haven't had a chance to do the T valve test yet but I don't hear the fuel pump run breifly after shutdown.

I happened to call O'reilly's and they said they sell a Borg-Warner OPS that has a "Life Time" guarantee. Do you guys know if maybe this aftermarket OPS has been "beefed" up to prevent common OPS failure? and if so, is the OPS relay Mod. and/or OPS ext. hose still worth the time?

I have somewhat limited time to spend on the truck and I know I might be getting the horse in front of the cart but should I order a PMD so I don't have to wait on the mail man more, Or is their a "good" chance my problems are within OPS/LP/fuel quality? Or do you think their is a good chance an intake mounted PMD would go out after 20K? Is their A PMD you recommend?

I re-checked the truck records and the fuel filter was changed last January. How often should you change these? considering my problems should I change it now? any tips on what to look for/do well cracking the filter?

Sorry I'm a Diesel newbie what type of additive is "2 stroke or nd30wt"? available at most stores? is that a brand or type. any advice would be good. It can get pretty cold here in Wisconsin, especially when the Packers are loosing.
 
The pmd can cause a code 35 and with it on the intake it is probable, I got 3k miles there.

With that said, it would be good to rule out fuel delivery problems.

The choice is your's whether to get a new pmd.
 
2 stroke oil or non detergent 30 wt oil. I like the nd30wt myself 1 quart per tank. I would buy a pmd just so you have a spare. If I was going to buy an OPS and not do the relay mod on it I would def do the hose ext.
 
I happened to call O'reilly's and they said they sell a Borg-Warner OPS that has a "Life Time" guarantee. Do you guys know if maybe this aftermarket OPS has been "beefed" up to prevent common OPS failure? and if so, is the OPS relay Mod. and/or OPS ext. hose still worth the time?

I have somewhat limited time to spend on the truck and I know I might be getting the horse in front of the cart but should I order a PMD so I don't have to wait on the mail man more, Or is their a "good" chance my problems are within OPS/LP/fuel quality? Or do you think their is a good chance an intake mounted PMD would go out after 20K? Is their A PMD you recommend?

Sorry I'm a Diesel newbie what type of additive is "2 stroke or nd30wt"? available at most stores? is that a brand or type. any advice would be good. It can get pretty cold here in Wisconsin, especially when the Packers are loosing.

OPS
I don't know about the Borg-Warner brand OPS, but I've had experience with the Standard brand. A few months ago, after purchasing my 94 pickup, I found that the OPS wasn't working so I replaced it with a Standard brand unit. I also at the same time did the OPS relay mod. The new OPS didn't last 6 weeks, even with the relay mod. I then ordered an AC Delco OPS and have had no more trouble.

Since the OPS is a difficult item to reach I used brass pipe fittings to raise it up to an easier to reach height. I used a 2" (maybe 3", don't remember) nipple to lift it up from the engine block. Then I put a Tee on top of the nipple. I then put a 90* Ell on one of the open ends of the Tee. The OPS went into the Ell and a plug went into the other end of the Tee. The plugged end of the Tee gives me a place for a future mechanical oil pressure gauge or other application. With this setup I lifted the OPS up and used the Ell to angle it forward for easier future access.

PMD
Your description of problems with dying and racing sounds exactly like what I was experiencing. I just had my PMD die (remote mounted) and had to order a new PMD. My pickup's PMD died while I was on the highway 5 miles away from home so I had to tow it home. I ordered and paid for expedited shipping with UPS and then had to wait 2.5 days for delivery. I could have ordered from an injection services business close to me that would have had a Stanadyne PMD, resistor and electrical adaptor shipped to me within a days time, for almost $400. The new Stanadyne PMD's use a different electrical plug than the origional Stanadyne or the DTech. A new DTech PMD and expedited shipping came up to about $230. I would reccommend getting a spare PMD. If I'd had a spare I could easily have been back running in less than a couple hours without all the hassles.

Fuel Additive
For fuel additive I'm using TCW3 rated 2 stroke oil. TCW3 is a marine grade of 2 stroke oil and can be found in many different brand labels. On the container label you will find it marked as TCW3 2 stroke oil. I bought 4 pint containers of TCW3 oil and then have been buying gallon size jugs and refilling the pints since.

I compared TCW3 to non-detergent oil. In my area I found it hard to find a reliable source for ND oil and similar pricing to TCW3 oil. I add 1 pint of TCW3 per fillup as compared to the reccommended 1 qt of ND oil so TCW3 ends up half the cost.

Don
 
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Thanks for the Tips. I think I will go ahead and get a PMD ordered since it seems reading on here these trucks eat these up like tic tacs.

I like your ext tube idea, do you think you will have any problems with engine shake/vibration cracking the stiff pipe over time?

Do Most people with 95 trucks mount the relay mod in the relay center next to the LP relay? I think their is an open spot?

Thanks for explaining the oil additive for me, I didn't think it was that simple. Do you run 2 cycle oil year round? anything special in the winter?
 
You should also run "Power Sevice" Diesel additive, available at most chain auto parts stores....Bout 1/2 oz to a gallon.....It comes in 2 versions, white bottle for winter months and use the grey bottle for the rest of the year.


2 Cents


....And Welcome to DTR/TTS, always nice to see a new member.
 
Fishbite and unexplained stalling is pretty common PMD issues.

It's not he only thing that can cause this, but common for the ol' 6.5.

I originally ran just an additive. The truck was a bit "peppier", mostly due to the cetane boost I would think.

Then, I went to 2 stroke. The truck quieted right down. Ran a couple tanks through like that and was happy with it.

Then, I found a local source for ND 30W. It was less than half the price of the Nautilus 2 stroke I was running and comes recommended by Bill heath and others on the board.

First tank quieted the ol' whoar even more and the very slight tendency to fishbite I had noticed disappeared.

I woudl recommend you at least chuck a spare PMD in the truck and start using an additive with cetane improver and ND 30 W oil.

I was originally skeptical, but after a couple tanks of each I now carry a 12 case of 30W in the bed.......
 
For a spare pmd I would get one from Wester's Garage. He lists the old style Stanadyne for $155 + $15 shipping. I haven't seen any improvement with the new styles going by what I've heard here.
 
For a spare pmd I would get one from Wester's Garage. He lists the old style Stanadyne for $155 + $15 shipping. I haven't seen any improvement with the new styles going by what I've heard here.

hey, that's good to know!

Lyndon has PMD's at a reasonable price (in canada, that is).

I never looked nor asked....
 
Thanks for the tips. I've got a PMD coming, and plan on putting a new OPS with relay mod in as soon as I get time. thanks.
 
OPS is a wear item unless you do the relay mod. From your "I hear the lift pump run after shutdown" comment I suggest that the OPS is fine at this time. Oil pressure falling off after shutdown keeps the OPS on and lift pump running for a bit after the engine has stopped.

Lift pumps can make noise and be 100% shot from bad valves. A pressure gauge put on the water drain and fuel pressure test should be done every oil change. Mine eats lift pumps like popcorn - and I am not sure about my luck with other exotic lift pump solutions.
 
I re-checked the truck records and the fuel filter was changed last January. How often should you change these? considering my problems should I change it now?
It can get pretty cold here in Wisconsin, especially when the Packers are losing.

First off... Welcome to The Truck Stop!
The fuel filter change may be a huge difference right away. I'd buy several and plan on 10-15k changes ( that many miles can sure plug one on the Dmax)

The Packers are LOSING?:eek: Say it ain't so!:hihi:

Sorry... couldn't help my Bears fan self...:hihi:
 
First off... Welcome to The Truck Stop!
The fuel filter change may be a huge difference right away. I'd buy several and plan on 10-15k changes ( that many miles can sure plug one on the Dmax)
X2 a lot depends on quality of fuel, I had a bad filter once nearly left me stranded "only" 2 mos old, <5k miles on it, see fuel with bugs can happen anytime, especially if fuel tank at fuel stop got to the bottom where the "mud" is before they filled it, and you filled up then or just after the in ground tank was topped up, and the "mud" got stirred up and became entrained in fuel, if running fuel without treating what is in your tank a algae farm can also happen, reason I pre-filter is the large 10 micron Racor element is much larger than the on engine 5 micron, so it can do the heavy sifting for any large rust ot other particulate before being sent to lift pump or quick clogging the finer mesh/smaller sized on engine one.

Anytime you have fuel delivery issues change fuel filter, which can be costly throwing away a "good" filter as part of diagnostics, due to cost of elements I added vac switches to let me know when I may have filter issues, not inexpensive either but since adding those I don't change filters until a blockage is indicated by the high vac setting the switch contacts and lighting the red LED I have in series with the switches.
 
So I finally got my new PMD and installed it last night. I will now go through my fuel system further by doing a OPS relay mod. and measuring my lift pump output/if any. And change my fuel filter.
due to cost of elements I added vac switches to let me know when I may have filter issues

I like this fuel vac switch idea, where did you mount the switches? isn't their a monitoring device in the fuel manager? or does that only check for H2O in fuel?

Have any of you guys used these $35 in-line performance chips they sell on e-bay? E-bay seems to be littered with them and judging from the add their the best thing since sliced bread. Just wondering if anyone has had good luck with them or if its a waste of time. they seem to be called "mind blowers" On that topic does anyone recommend something of that nature for performance gain, edge, bully dog, etc.?

I found a bigger heat sink laying around and I decided bigger is always better right? so I used that for my PMD, and mounted it behind the L-plate. let me know what you think, thanks
 

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