6.5l turbo no start

[aussie burb]

replacrd and relocated pmd and now very hard to start if it starts at all.lots of white smoke and no revs .help!!!!!

 

[JMJNet]

The replacement PMD may be bad or the extension cable may be bad?

Did you put the PMD on a heatsink?

 

[aussie burb]

i have changed the pmd and tried origonal wiring harness again and yes i used a heat sink

 

[Will L.]

Need to get more into the details.

How was it starting and running before messing with the pmd?

Seems like your saying it ran ok, then pmd swap started problems- suspect what you just did. Swap back and it still messes up? If so- check if you bent A pin or two in the connector coming from the ip.

or if you lost the ground to that connection

 

[aussie burb]

gday mate there was some damege to the connecter ihave fixed that.Would the pins still make good contact?the ground was cleaned and refitted.it was starting and running fine except it was doing the pmd thing stopping and then having to wait before it would start again' thanks for your reply

 

[Will L.]

Those pins are a VERY common nightmare that people think they fixed, but still bad connection.
I can’t remember any specifications- hopefully someone here can post-
You should add extension cable and use multi meter to test the signal going through the ip cable and through the extension cable to be sure you have it ok. Right now the Vegas odds are 92% that is your issue.

 

[Will L.]

Oh, and my understanding is your wonderful continent does not inspect that engine for using the ds4 injection pump.

I would remove and sell the ds4 and related components and install a db2 in its place in a heartbeat. Want more power- db2. More mpg-db2. Lower cost of ownership- db2. Less breakdown- db2. Easier repair when it does break down- db2. All parts still available and will be for next 2 decades according to AM General-db2. No pmd forced run away- db2.
better control for wmi injection-ds4. So my score is 7:1.

yes, I am biased.

 

[GM Guy]

Oh, and my understanding is your wonderful continent does not inspect that engine for using the ds4 injection pump.

I would remove and sell the ds4 and related components and install a db2 in its place in a heartbeat. Want more power- db2. More mpg-db2. Lower cost of ownership- db2. Less breakdown- db2. Easier repair when it does break down- db2. All parts still available and will be for next 2 decades according to AM General-db2. No pmd forced run away- db2.
better control for wmi injection-ds4. So my score is 7:1.

yes, I am biased.

I guess count me biased the other way.

stock for stock I've had way better luck out of the DS4. Cold starts, MPG, low end torque (hill holding ability in 5th gear) lower cost of ownership, longevity, etc. have all favored the DS4 for me.

 

[aussie burb]

Those pins are a VERY common nightmare that people think they fixed, but still bad connection.
I can’t remember any specifications- hopefully someone here can post-
You should add extension cable and use multi meter to test the signal going through the ip cable and through the extension cable to be sure you have it ok. Right now the Vegas odds are 92% that is your issue.

We have a start of sorts.i used small amount of starting gas and it running. Still huge clouds of white smoke and no revs.decided to let it idle and warm up as the engine warmed the white smoke went away.as soon as pushed gas pedal down slight increase in revs but lots of white smoke again would bad connections be causing this if so how to test and FIX??????

 

[JMJNet]

Starting fluid will burn the Glow Plugs in this truck when the GPs are glowing.

You really need to get a good extension cable, there are a lot of chinese made that is not good.
They pass electrical test but will not make the proper contact.

The PMD is also another issue. They can be DOA.
The day assuming "new parts are good" is long gone.
Now, you have to really test the parts, users have become the Quality Control Inspector for the companies.

 

[ak diesel driver]

I'd be checking for air in fuel

 

[Will L.]

I never recommend using starting fluid (starting gas in your cool sounding lingo) on idi diesels. A hair too much destroys the engine. Half a hair too much does damage, the engine runs but never runs right again from things like slight bent rod. Almost any amount of it onto the glow plugs crystallizes them and they are toast so you have to use block heater and unplug glow controller. That said, you already did so let’s move on.

So using the starting gas it did start. Did it only run on that and enough to give white smoke? did it start and actually run for several seconds and rev up when you hit the throttle? This is what i am understanding happened.

White smoke is either unburned fuel or burning engine coolant. They way to know is smell it. Smells like diesel= diesel so no big deal, smells like coolant is coolant and that means the engine needs heads removed to determine how much of a rebuild is required.
Having low coolant level is a bad sign.

Have you tried using the block heater to get it warm before starting to see if that helps? Could be your glowplugs are toast and it’s just too cold. This engine always needs glowplugs or block heater to start (unless you just shut it off from driving and engine hasn’t cooled down yet).

If it started and ran a little while with unburned diesel fuel creating the white smoke- then AK diesel driver is on point- replace the 1/4” diameter 5” long fuel return hose that comes out the front of the ip with clear tubing and a couple screw style hose clamps. Takes like 5 minutes and should be left on permanent- but has to be replaced more often than regular fuel line. Watch it when trying to start (or actually running) for bubbles in the line. This indicates a leak in the fuel system between tank and ip but instead of leaking out diesel it is sucking air in- super common failure.

I really need to video a minor one, but here is a video of it happening so bad that full throttle barely let the engine get to 1000 rpm or so. With ds4 there is no way it would run with half this much air because of the optic sensor.

 

[aussie burb]

gday thanks for your reply.the little bit off start gas i used was enough to start motor and run by itself. as the motor warmed up the white (diesel smelling) smoke disappeared.when i pushed acelerater to floor very slight increase in revs but heaps of white smoke. motor idleing normally 700rpm and smoothly. if i shut motor off it will start again no start gas.with regard to block heaters the last time it was freezing here was 3000BC ice age'.when the motor warmed up it ran normally 700 rpm no smoke floor the gas pedal and would go to1000rpm and lots of smoke

 

[aussie burb]

Starting fluid will burn the Glow Plugs in this truck when the GPs are glowing.

You really need to get a good extension cable, there are a lot of chinese made that is not good.
They pass electrical test but will not make the proper contact.

The PMD is also another issue. They can be DOA.
The day assuming "new parts are good" is long gone.
Now, you have to really test the parts, users have become the Quality Control Inspector for the companies.

the problem here is there is no corner parts shop for these engines.it takes 2 weeks to get parts from the us

 

[ak diesel driver]

Once again sounds like air

 

[aussie burb]

Once again sounds like air

Will check tomorrow thks

 

[Will L.]

I agree about the air.

on the glow plugs, and freezing temps: when I say cold engine i mean it hasn’t tan in the last 5 hours. I live in Las Vegas- a hot desert climate. It can be 80f degrees outside and these engines still have the ‘wait to start’ light come on because the engine coolant temperature is cold enough that it will still use the glow plugs as a starting aide. It does not have to be a cold winter day to require the glow plugs.

When you turn the key on you have a light that says ‘wait’ or ‘glow’ or something similar. Do you wait until it goes off before cranking the engine or do you just inseet key and instantly turn it and start like a gasoline (petrol?) car?

 

[aussie burb]

I agree about the air.

on the glow plugs, and freezing temps: when I say cold engine i mean it hasn’t tan in the last 5 hours. I live in Las Vegas- a hot desert climate. It can be 80f degrees outside and these engines still have the ‘wait to start’ light come on because the engine coolant temperature is cold enough that it will still use the glow plugs as a starting aide. It does not have to be a cold winter day to require the glow plugs.

When you turn the key on you have a light that says ‘wait’ or ‘glow’ or something similar. Do you wait until it goes off before cranking the engine or do you just inseet key and instantly turn it and start like a gasoline (petrol?) car?

when i start the engine cold i always wait for the glow plugs to go through the cycle.do any of you guys know what the volteges etc should be at the connecter that goes into the PMD . mine shows A green 0 volts B red 0 volts C black ground 001omhs D pink 12v E red 5v F ground to ip checked with ignition on engine not running if anyone can point me in the right direction with this problem i would be very grateful.because of this i have no transport and i live out bush so you can understand my problem. thanks guys

 

[ak diesel driver]

Did you ever check for air?

 

[aussie burb]

Did you ever check for air?

`im going to right now