Son bought a Chevy 3500 with a 6.5 in it. Has been sitting for years, previous owner said truck just quit running, took to a mechanic and he said he couldn’t fix it. We put new pmd on it , all new engine wire harnesses from the loom out, new glow plugs and harness. It will crank but there is no fuel coming out of injection pump. We installed new lift pump and have good flow to ip. We have the lines off at ip and absolutely no fuel coming out of ip. Any suggestions?
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6.5 won’t start
- Thread starter Tmyers
- Start date
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
Welcome to the forum @Tmyers we need a little more info about your rig. what year are we working on here and is this a auto or manual trans? first things first. Check all the grounds for the PCM. there should be three eyelets up on the drinkers side of the intake up by the trans dipstick tube if automatic.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
there should be one solid black, one black with white stripe, and one more brown with white stripe there. those are the grounds for the PCM. there is also a small black one on the top side of the IP too.
where did you mount the PMD? is it still on the side of the IP or remote mounted? BTW, Never try to start it with the PMD not mounted to a heatsink. that's instant death for the PMD! it also needs to be grounded if it's remote mounted. best place for it to be mounted is in the one of the holes of the front bumper so it's out of the engine compartment.
where did you mount the PMD? is it still on the side of the IP or remote mounted? BTW, Never try to start it with the PMD not mounted to a heatsink. that's instant death for the PMD! it also needs to be grounded if it's remote mounted. best place for it to be mounted is in the one of the holes of the front bumper so it's out of the engine compartment.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
With a 97 you have an obd2 system. do you have access to a scanner to read live data? there are a few things you can do without a scanner. first verify all fuses in both boxes all have power and none are missing. mainly the PCM fuses. also does the SES light up with the key on? does the glow plug light illuminate for a few seconds when the key is first turned on? that will somewhat tell us if the PCM is working and receiving signals.
next we need to verify somehow that the PCM is getting cranking signal when you turn over the engine and the fuel shut-off solenoid is getting 12v with the key on. it's the little round cylinder looking solenoid on the IP. it should only have a single wire iirc. the easiest way to check for cranking signal is using a scanner looking at the live data when key on and cranking
crack the four injector lines loose at the injectors on the drivers side, those are the easiest to get to. when cranking, look for fuel to begin to leak out. also make sure you have good fuel pressure from the LP to the IP. usually it's best to check pressure at the IP's inlet.
just a word of caution: I know it gets frustrating with a diesel when it wont start but NEVER use any starting fluid on these engine!
@Will L. @Husker6.5 @ak diesel driver @denata Putting out a call for others to chime in with their knowledge
next we need to verify somehow that the PCM is getting cranking signal when you turn over the engine and the fuel shut-off solenoid is getting 12v with the key on. it's the little round cylinder looking solenoid on the IP. it should only have a single wire iirc. the easiest way to check for cranking signal is using a scanner looking at the live data when key on and cranking
crack the four injector lines loose at the injectors on the drivers side, those are the easiest to get to. when cranking, look for fuel to begin to leak out. also make sure you have good fuel pressure from the LP to the IP. usually it's best to check pressure at the IP's inlet.
just a word of caution: I know it gets frustrating with a diesel when it wont start but NEVER use any starting fluid on these engine!
@Will L. @Husker6.5 @ak diesel driver @denata Putting out a call for others to chime in with their knowledge
First of all, thanks for all the feedback! We already had the PMD mounted in the bumper and it is on a heat sink. New lift pump and have good pressure coming to ip. We actually have all injection lines off at ip because we bought a used one and put in thinking the other one must be bad, no fuel at all. Shut off solenoid is working. I have a scanner but not sure if it will read live data. I’ll check on that tomorrow and all the grounds again
Husker6.5
135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Out the top front of the ip (injection pump) is a 1/4” diameter fuel line about 5” long in an upside down U shape. Replace that with clear tubing. Hardware stores sell some that will work for a couple years before needing replacing. Longer term get some from fuelline.com- it is proper rated for fuel.
You are watching for clean clear fuel flowing through when cranking. No bubbles flowing- that is a bad thing and can keep it from running at all.
Next is get a metal fitting that interrupts the current fitting going from the regular fuel line going into the ip. The fitting you need is with an 1/8” threaded inlet for a fuel pressure gauge sensor. Mount the fuel pressure gauge where you can read it from driver seat. This isn’t a cool factor- this is life/death of the ip. Many people have replaced good ip because of deterioration of the rubber fuel lines on the inside. 8-14 psi is desired range. 1-8 it will run but is shortening ip life. 0psi dont expect it to run- it can, but can also be the cause.
These are a couple basic checks- but honestly I would be thinking electronics.
Before pulling your hair out too much- find out if you local government agencies care if you eliminate the obd2 nonsense and get a db2 ip instead of your ds4 ip.
12v power to the run solenoid and a stand alone controller for the trans and no more engine electronic nonsense.
93 and older 6.2/6.5 pickups and 95 and older hummers have none of that headache
You are watching for clean clear fuel flowing through when cranking. No bubbles flowing- that is a bad thing and can keep it from running at all.
Next is get a metal fitting that interrupts the current fitting going from the regular fuel line going into the ip. The fitting you need is with an 1/8” threaded inlet for a fuel pressure gauge sensor. Mount the fuel pressure gauge where you can read it from driver seat. This isn’t a cool factor- this is life/death of the ip. Many people have replaced good ip because of deterioration of the rubber fuel lines on the inside. 8-14 psi is desired range. 1-8 it will run but is shortening ip life. 0psi dont expect it to run- it can, but can also be the cause.
These are a couple basic checks- but honestly I would be thinking electronics.
Before pulling your hair out too much- find out if you local government agencies care if you eliminate the obd2 nonsense and get a db2 ip instead of your ds4 ip.
12v power to the run solenoid and a stand alone controller for the trans and no more engine electronic nonsense.
93 and older 6.2/6.5 pickups and 95 and older hummers have none of that headache
denata
Well-Known Member
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If the fuel does not go to the injectors, then it must go to the return line. Is fuel coming out of the return line? There is a small mesh filter at the pump inlet, to check and clean it, you need to unscrew the supply fitting. Is the wire from the valve screwed to the top of the pump? Can you measure valve resistance?
I have good flow at the return line, and already checked the fine screen on the inlet, it was clean. Ground wire is screwed to top of pump. I haven’t checked pressure yet. I’m leaning towards electrical issues. Going to be busy at work all day hopefully have time to work on it more this evening. Thanks again guys for all your help!
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
You talked about two ground wires to one stud and another grounding wire to another position, can You tell is the color of the wires insulation ? Or was two insulated and one a braided grounding wire ?
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
If You can get Your hands on a GM Tech scanner then You will be able to see engine cranking speeds from the cranking shaft position sensor, if You dont have that signal then that sensor could be the fault.
If the PS mounting bracket needs to be removed to get the CPS pulled from its hole, the PS pump pulley does not need to be removed and the PS pump can remain attached to its bracket. Pull the forward bolts, three or four I dont remember, then the one bolt from the front side of the engine block, easiest to reach through the left side fender well with the splash flap removed.
If the PS mounting bracket needs to be removed to get the CPS pulled from its hole, the PS pump pulley does not need to be removed and the PS pump can remain attached to its bracket. Pull the forward bolts, three or four I dont remember, then the one bolt from the front side of the engine block, easiest to reach through the left side fender well with the splash flap removed.
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
QuadStar tuning guided Me into purchasing the Autel Maxi AP200 reader system. An app that connects it to a smartypants phone. It will read every sensor of the OBD2 system of these trucks.
The brand of vehicle needs to be installed, for the $65.00 or so bucks one brand comes with the ALDL adapter. For obvious reasons I chose GM.
A person I know owns a ford, asked me to hook my device to his car. I asked Him if He has a spare 65 bucks to download the ford app software, uhhhhh no, nope, cant hook my device to Your Ford, now move along.
The brand of vehicle needs to be installed, for the $65.00 or so bucks one brand comes with the ALDL adapter. For obvious reasons I chose GM.
A person I know owns a ford, asked me to hook my device to his car. I asked Him if He has a spare 65 bucks to download the ford app software, uhhhhh no, nope, cant hook my device to Your Ford, now move along.
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
A simple code reader will tell You what codes is popping with the SES lamp.
Some auto parts stores might rent one to You with a full refund upon its return. A deposit, or CC deposit needs to be made in order to pack it out.
Some auto parts stores might rent one to You with a full refund upon its return. A deposit, or CC deposit needs to be made in order to pack it out.
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
That could be the problem. Is that with the wire disconnected from the solenoid ?
If the wire is still hooked, disconnect it and see what the voltage is.
jrsavoie
Recruit
Somewhere, in the 6.5 diagnostics to threads, there's information on what voltages are to be read on the PMD harness. Going to & coming from the PMD.
On the 1994 I made a T harness to red the volts going back to the IP. - I don't like to prove.
When I plugged that harness in. The truck ran and I found out I had a pin in the harness connector, not making contact in the harnesses I had tried previously. I still think it weird that the pin lost connection while being driven down the road.
On the 1994 I made a T harness to red the volts going back to the IP. - I don't like to prove.
When I plugged that harness in. The truck ran and I found out I had a pin in the harness connector, not making contact in the harnesses I had tried previously. I still think it weird that the pin lost connection while being driven down the road.