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6.5 vacuum pump delete

T

tommyboy8072002

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Hi everyone I seen a post where someone had deleted there vacuum pump just Curious how to do you that. This is on a 94 gmc sierra c3500hd 6.5 turbo diesel. Thanks in advance
 
WELCOME TO THE T STOP!

Or delete the vac pump and use an electric Ford vac pump to still control the boost on any turbo that has a waste
gate you decide too run, I seem to remember FERM has once voiced his opinion on using the built in boost control over the mechanical unit.
 
I put together a turbo master. it worked okay, I kept it below 10 pounds. I do not want to blow a head gasket.
The one thing I did not like about it is the service engine light was constantly on. I like to know if there is anything amiss with My truck and with that light constantly glaring how would anyone know if some other component has failed, without hooking it to a code reader/scanner.
I installed a new vacuum pump and I`m happy with the way everything works. It will boost to a little over 11 pounds under high acceleration and pulling loads.
 
I deleted my vacuum pump a couple years ago and I have it set to where it keeps the boost to about 7 or 8 lbs driving normal and it’ll get to about 12 or 13 lbs towing the tractor. I don’t think I’ll ever go back to a vacuum pump. It does make you looses a little mpg though
 
Vacuum delete?
Remove vacuum pump. Get a shorter belt. Replace the vacuum boost control and replace it with a manual waste gate controller - spring activated. It will give a code for the faulty vacuum- for this an ecm rework. Or a boost fooled.

But the question would be is it the right thing for you to do? Many used to do this so they could quit replacing the poor quality vacuum pumps these engines used to have. If thats the main reason then still remove it and go shorter belt, but install a modern electric vacuum pump. Others do it to alter boost, but ramping boost way up on factory turbo- you can go up a little bit but very much will spell disaster. A proper sized turbo is the first good move. Better power, better mpg, and still keep good emissions all while extending engine life instead of shortening it- which bumping up to 16-17 psi factory turbo will definitely do.

Best thing is start your own new thread and let us know what you have, what you need it to do. And how much money can be spent to do it. Don’t buy anything anywhere before talking it over because we can stop you from making same mistakes we did.
 
Remove the vacuum pump and replace the belt with a 99.5” belt if I remember right. Get rid of the vacuum hoses but leave the sensor that they attach to attached to the wiring harness. Then you have to buy a ”Turbo Master” or you can make your own pretty easily. There are some threads on here on how to make your own. It’s pretty much a one time set it where you want it and forget its there.
 
I'm swapping out the intake and installing one so I can delete the EGR valve and I was thinking about getting rid of the air pump too would my little non turbo 6.5 benefit by doing this?Thanks.

Mark
 
RD400HP said:
I'm swapping out the intake and installing one so I can delete the EGR valve and I was thinking about getting rid of the air pump too would my little non turbo 6.5 benefit by doing this?Thanks.

Mark
Click to expand...

You definitely will not need the Vacuum Pump for non turbo.
I am not sure what is the benefit other than one less part to worry about.
 
Thanks for the reply JM. I was going to do the feed the Beast mod and I got the idea since had the manifold off to find a manifold with no EGR and run a K&N type aircleaner on it and get rid of the old aircleaner and clean up the engine compartment just a tad.

Mark
 
RD400HP said:
run a K&N type aircleaner
Click to expand...

Get your money back on those useless K&N air cleaners. Just run without an air filter and save the money.

Here is the ring dusting dirt they let by. Screws up the idle air control on 2002 5.3L V8's by coating them with dirt. Then the engine runs too slow RPM at idle and stalls. The only way to fix dusted rings is to replace them (!)

IMG-20140214-00426.jpg

IMG-20140214-00427.jpg


If you have money to burn get a aftermarket dry type of air filter.

.
 
I haven't bought a filter yet and like you say I've heard the only reason K&N filters breath is because they let so much crap through I was just using K&N as an example. I'm gonna see if I can stick some kind of a filter in the air baffle over there on the fender well being this is a NA motor I won't be able to use the stock filter since I changed manifolds.

Mark
 
Idk about the stock design K&N filter for the pickups- but I ran them on multiple other applications like my 95 Hummer.
I grew up in the Vegas area desert on dirtbikes, jeeps and pickups that go offroad a LOT. We learned to use 20%-30% more oil than K&N recommends - was taught this by one of their engineers at a sema show way back for super dusty environments.

I put 46,000 miles on my original 6.5 when the cylinder crack destroyed the engine. Replaced it with a 6.5 optimizer in 2004, and tacked on 70,000 miles with the same K&N filter since then. A glow plug broke and destroyed a piston, so I have it torn down now for that. I think I posted pics of the cylinder walls here of it - the crosshatch marks are noticeable still, but not a single vertical mark was there.

Oil analysis:
Levels of silicon and aluminum, the basic components of dirt, are clear indicators of an air intake filtration leak letting dirt into the combustion chamber. High levels of chromium suggest that the resulting abrasion is wearing chrome off the piston rings.
All 3 of mine were always crazy low except for the first break in reading of chromium when the rings were seating with the new engine.

There are better air filters available. If I were to get a long term filter now it would be a dry one. Not that I give up on, or think K&N is that bad, but there are other options as good now. If you are after performance, and don’t mind the extra time of oiling- then it is fine imo.

Many people won’t do oil analysis and monitor a filter minder or other similar vacuum gauge for these issues. If that is your case- avoid K&N.

I am actually kinda sad because how I am building my engine now,my factory set up wont flow enough air without restrictions to frequently. Gm6 turbo and turned up screw in my db2831-5088 combined with my non-eco friendly driving habits had me cleaning mine every 2500 miles roughly. But I know the new build would max me out at probably 1500 mile intervals- so mine will go away. If only I could get my hands on that donaldson blue... it would solve my issue.

Which btw-for everyone here that remembers THE FILTER TEST- that AC Delco filter that had the wazoo numbers- yeah that was donaldson making that filter for AC Delco and direst to GM under the AC Delco part number- incase you aren’t aware.
So those magical filters simply are not for sale anymore.
 
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