6.5 td vacuum delete

[Joe putnal]

Hi, I have a 95 k2500 6.5td and my vacuum pump locked up today and was wondering if I could delete it and if so how would I go about doing this? Thanks

 

[ak diesel driver]

should be able to remove the pump and put on a shorter belt

 

[Will L.]

Then a turbo master for the waste gate control.

Wasn't there something simple for the electronics involved?

 

[79jasper]

There may be other options, but you can use a electric vacuum pump from the ford's to run the heater controls.
Did these trucks already have hydro boost brakes? If not, can't really delete the pump. Lol

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[Will L.]

I've never seen one with a vacuum booster for the brakes.

 

[79jasper]

Ah okay. Hadn't really been around any "factory" gm diesels. So I wasn't sure.

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[GM Guy]

you can delete the pump as outlined above, but then you would need a turbo master to control the turbo wastegate.

I personally prefer the precise control the computer has over the stock turbo, so I keep my vaccum systems healthy and operational.

 

[Will L.]

The question I have for you is: what are your future plans? I don't like to spend money on things I later take off and upgrade.

Aftermarket turbos are far better than the stock turbo, and in some cases pay for the cost of the turbo in mpg gains. So that makes the extra power they supply free icing on the cake.
The cost of a new vacuum pump could be applied towards the eventual swap to the ATT or hx35 starting with the shorter belt. New, used or home made turbo master just to drive the truck until you get in the new non-wasted gated turbo. If you go turbo master long term, it seems most people get better numbers from the real one by Heath.

If you don't have preference either way, the vacuum system is the most fuel efficient/ power design dependent upon a good tune. I am stuck wit the tiny gm turbo by what fits in my hummer, and have to use a turbomaster. If I had a ds4 instead of a db2 IP, I would put on a vacuum control for the waste gate.

 

[Dunedain15]

Wasn't there something simple for the electronics involved?

Where the vacuum tube actually attaches to the actuator (close to the firewall on the driver's side), you have to plug the actuator or it will throw a code. I balled up some electrical tape and stuffed it in the end then wrapped the whole thing with electrical tape to hold it secure. Drove like that for three years with no problem.

On my '98, I got a 99.5" belt after deleting my vacuum pump. Don't know if it'd be different for a '95.

 

[GM Guy]

There may be other options, but you can use a electric vacuum pump from the ford's to run the heater controls.
Did these trucks already have hydro boost brakes? If not, can't really delete the pump. Lol

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HVAC is all electric controls on these. To my knowledge, GM never had vaccum controlled HVAC on anything.

Also, any factory diesel GMT400, from half ton to 1.5 ton Chassis cab, will be hydroboost.

 

[79jasper]

Thanks. Good to know.
Guess I haven't really been around the "truck" side of things on many gm's.

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[QinVB]

I researched this yesterday: the only electric vacuum pump that has the inches of HG (posted) that is required and is built to function long term, costs more than a factory vacuum pump. The $50.00+shpg ford pump may be easier to install, but why bother with a cheaper 'iffy", or even the more expensive project??? The heater vacuum pumps are not made to perform up to what the stock or more expensive pumps are. They open and close the heater valve and blend door. I can do without the heat or the ability to choose where the heat comes out, but when I'm pulling 12k a hundred miles I don't want that plastic junk to give it up when I'm going up a hill - even if I have one of them in the toolbox for a spare. My luck it would be on the way home at 11 pm and raining when it stopped working, the SES light came on, and the power went away. I will gladly pay to avoid that experience.

Pepboys has a 25% off discount for online orders right now and they sell the same Dorman pumps that rockauto does with free shipping for store pickup. I'd rather pull the alternator and serp belt to replace the stock pump than rely on a little plastic $50 pump for such an important function. Just my opinion derived after much research. I'm not trying to offend anyone with a different opinion, I just don't see the point. But then , also, I do my own work for free, and would rather do one thing that is harder and have it last for years than do something cheaper twice, and then end up spending more to do what should have been done in the beginning.

Now, if you are comparing having a shop put the OE pump (at retail cost) on at $100+ an hour labor, it may be worth it to you to buy the good pump from Summit and put it on yourself. But, forget the plastic, electric, heater vac pump.

Last thing: if I was looking at a truck to buy and it had the $50 pump on it, I would immediately walk away, because, to me, it leaves the question of what other cheap shortcuts were taken when maintaining that truck.

Hope this helps.

 

[EWC]

Did the pump lock up or the pod go bad ? Also just in case someone reads this , the square body AC trucks ( 81 - 91 ) use vacuum to operate the HVAC system .

 

[GM Guy]

I researched this yesterday: the only electric vacuum pump that has the inches of HG (posted) that is required and is built to function long term, costs more than a factory vacuum pump. The $50.00+shpg ford pump may be easier to install, but why bother with a cheaper 'iffy", or even the more expensive project??? The heater vacuum pumps are not made to perform up to what the stock or more expensive pumps are. They open and close the heater valve and blend door. I can do without the heat or the ability to choose where the heat comes out, but when I'm pulling 12k a hundred miles I don't want that plastic junk to give it up when I'm going up a hill - even if I have one of them in the toolbox for a spare. My luck it would be on the way home at 11 pm and raining when it stopped working, the SES light came on, and the power went away. I will gladly pay to avoid that experience.

Pepboys has a 25% off discount for online orders right now and they sell the same Dorman pumps that rockauto does with free shipping for store pickup. I'd rather pull the alternator and serp belt to replace the stock pump than rely on a little plastic $50 pump for such an important function. Just my opinion derived after much research. I'm not trying to offend anyone with a different opinion, I just don't see the point. But then , also, I do my own work for free, and would rather do one thing that is harder and have it last for years than do something cheaper twice, and then end up spending more to do what should have been done in the beginning.

Now, if you are comparing having a shop put the OE pump (at retail cost) on at $100+ an hour labor, it may be worth it to you to buy the good pump from Summit and put it on yourself. But, forget the plastic, electric, heater vac pump.

Last thing: if I was looking at a truck to buy and it had the $50 pump on it, I would immediately walk away, because, to me, it leaves the question of what other cheap shortcuts were taken when maintaining that truck.

Hope this helps.

No vaccum HVAC on GMT400. On non-ac trucks, it is accomplished with cable controls instead of vaccum.

 

[QinVB]

No vaccum HVAC on GMT400. On non-ac trucks, it is accomplished with cable controls instead of vaccum.

I was talking about the ford vac pump. They don't work very hard and aren't made to work hard - all they do is: "They (the ford pump) open and close the heater valve and blend door. "

 

[QinVB]

BTW GM Guy, I'm taking your advice and replacing my bad vacuum pump with an OEM pump - a Delphi.

Now I have to find rigid vac hoses to replace my 18 yo brittle hoses that crumbled where they have to put up with the engine heat, where they go down behind the alternator to the pump, when I removed them .

 

[79jasper]

Actually on the fords, they operate the vacuum hubs also.

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[GM Guy]

ah, thanks for the clarification.

As far as the lines, if you are going after a nice factory appearance, GM still offers the line. it is a bitch to find in the database, and it is called a harness, but it is still available for 96+ NLA for 95 and older.