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6.5 td mtr mounts

Brooklyn Tow said:
It's all personal preference.......Just saying "I heard" that the poly for motor mounts, didn't have the same dampning characteristics as the OEM "rubber".....They're to hard/stiff.

Hey your rig, use what you like.....and I agree Barry seen a few 6.5's to say the least.
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that he has!

had a chat with my old man, and he offered up some examples of some stuff that is solidly mounted, and hasnt affected anything yet, one of which is our 79 chevy with the Isuzu I6 ( The first chevy duramax! lol) that the previous owner swapped in. it is sitting on pieces of pipe, and no frame cracks at all.

I will probably go with poly engine mounts and get a set of rebuilt boschs from BK, and get a Fluidampr and call it good.Its just money, cant take it with you, and a sweet running 6.5L is more exciting than watching your money grow with shitty interest rates!
 
mtr mounts done today, dropped frnt diff and driver side went quite well, then the pass side HOLLY SHTTT had to drop turbo pipe flaten flange on firewell, 5 hrs later got er done !! mounts were so bad almost rubbed through cup !! 2 ASE certified techs and my brother helping. suburban hanging off lift but i cant wait to see the diff it going to make !! on to duramax fan kit tomm and saying good buy to kittie and muffler !!, ss 3 inch down pipe on order !! ko jo tune next !!
 
Why was the passenger side so hard?......How did you lift the engine.....Cherry picker?

Please give some details as too what made it so difficult and how you did the job, (5 hrs, for both sides?).....So maybe someone else could benefit from your experience.

I'm sure the 4X4's are a tuff repair compared to the RWD......Correct?
 
def could do it quicker now, once we seen the turbo pipe was hitting and took it loose made a lot of diff, folded the ear down on the body above bell housing also helped. we picked mtr via tranny jack and let the lift down scary at times, but needed all the room to sneek new mounts in , hope this helps p.s dropping frnt diff made drivers side much easier !!
 
Using a lift is cheating! lol

I didn't realize you had a lift or I would have said dropping the front axle would be the way to go. Removing the front axle in my drive way would be a PITA! I am leaning toward just pulling my engine to get to the mounts, I can get a cherry picker from my friend.
 
You can get to the motor mounts to replace them by either getting a cherry picker and using that, or by getting a bottle jack and a piece of 2x4, then lifting by the front of the oil pan.

Then, lift enough to get the weight off the through-bolt on the mounts, remove the bolts, and lift the engine off the mounts. You will be able to get the engine high enough to gain access to the bolts on the block as well as the bolts on the frame. All you should have to do is remove the upper rad shroud. I've BTDT.
 
Not sure which pump you're referring to.

As I think it over, it does make it easier if you unbolt your GP controller so that it's not causing a hang up. The motor can go pretty high. I jacked mine up as far as I could and got almost 18" of clearance at the front of the engine. That was about double what you'd need to replace the motor mounts.

I could probably replace both mounts in under 2 1/2 hours.
 
buddy said:
The oil pump pickup is pretty close to the oil pan inside the oil pan. Thats just why I would only do it with the cherry picker.
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You're talking about lifting by the oil pan at the back of the engine.

I placed a short piece of 2.4 at the front of the engine, then used a bottle jack to lift against the 2x4. The oil pan is a lot stronger than you would think it is.
 
I have an old 6.5 sitting on the pan and it doesnt show any signs of giving, I think I like the bottle jack idea. I am going to assume taking the tranny mounts loose is a must?
 
Did my motor mounts today, took about 1hr. Very easy with no front diff in the way:D
 
Brooklyn Tow said:
Bought a set from the dealer about 2-4 months ago......About $45 ea with my discount (20%)
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Considering that's from a dealer that's not an awful price. When i bought mounts for my 6.2 i found them for $9 a piece, and they were the ones with the factory thickness steel and built quite well.



Just a note to anyone looking for motor mounts. Most of the new ones the steel clamshell is made of thinner steel and the rubber can be moved just by pushing on it by hand. Do Not buy these mounts. If you can move the rubber by hand, then the engine will easily move it. Compare the old mounts to the new mounts, especially if your old mounts are original. The clamshell should be the same thickness on a good quality replacement mount.
 
iamdave0887 said:
Considering that's from a dealer that's not an awful price. When i bought mounts for my 6.2 i found them for $9 a piece, and they were the ones with the factory thickness steel and built quite well.



Just a note to anyone looking for motor mounts. Most of the new ones the steel clamshell is made of thinner steel and the rubber can be moved just by pushing on it by hand. Do Not buy these mounts. If you can move the rubber by hand, then the engine will easily move it. Compare the old mounts to the new mounts, especially if your old mounts are original. The clamshell should be the same thickness on a good quality replacement mount.
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Where is a good place to get new mounts?
 
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