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6.5 stuttering from stand still. Smooth otherwise

Nothing against all the increase fuel supply mods (FTB) and I'm sure it technically is an improvement. However I do sometimes ponder just how necessary for some moving to a non stock style pump and the necessary plumbing adaptations is. I run fully loaded with tools all the time and pull a trailer once in a while and a high output stock pump so far is working fine. Heck I drove to Michigan once with a trailer only to realise when I got there that my lift pump was not even working. Granted I am not in the mid to high end weight trailer stakes but for many when I start seeing all the change plumbing/mounting pumps I do start to wonder.

Cheers
Nobby
The difference in fuel lube, amounts of moisture in the fuel, etc all has a great deal to do with it.
That is some of the testing we did at the oil/fuel company that was on the 6.5 but was for the parent oil company, not any of the manufactures.

Think of it this way: forget it (injection pump) is anything but a pump. How well within tolerance it was made innthe first place has a lot to do with its life. Then how well lubricated does it stay. If the fuel you are running is better quality in lube and less contamination, the pump will last longer.

The transfer portion of the ip is what suffers from low incoming pressure. Remember Roy on here within last couple weeks was convinced low pressure won’t even allow the engine to run. You didn’t even notice when your LP was dead. The difference is your ip transfer pump was in good condition and his is nearing death. Maybe yours kept pressure more often- maybe you had fuel made from sweet crude instead of regular or sour crude. The base mix of lube into the fuel and if it was refractured to produce it vs single fracture is huge- (almost same gain as conventional oil to synthetic) Maybe less water. Not maxing out demand often can help. Then of course the big one- how many miles on it.

So individual use and circumstances play in.
I associate it to some hummer owners that never had their ect hit 200. Drive it easy, low weight, never bad weather, never hit 55 mph, never tow, etc and they question why so many others have heat issues. Hummers btw loose airflow through radiator starting at 60 mph headwind and the centermount turbo causes more heat into the rear of the heads.

When the group of us guys tested the lift pumps, there was a couple of exceptions to the rule- one AC Delco ran amazing and after running non stop for over 14 months- barely lost any volume/ pressure. That pump got installed on his personal truck afterwards and ran great till he died. His grandson got the truck that guy put another 100,000 on it after that, then I gave the truck a once over before he moved away it was still pushing 9psi! However, the other 4 of the same part number all died pretty equally.

If yours is performing well- GREAT! but this is why I say monitor it. A guy might have 2 trucks and installs identical LP, bought at same store on same day. One makes it 6 months, the other 6 years. When that incoming pressure drops- it wears the ip faster. Maybe a person got the magic LP and magic ip where the LP lasts a decade and the ip barely suffers before it gets discovered.
But for every super lucky guy, there is a super unlucky guy - outliers tend to work that way.

as to the larger diameter line in to ip- do the math how much fuel a new dmax or cummins actually burns and ask yourself why all the best lift pump manufacturers run 1/2” line.
 
@nobby Today most states have 5% Biodiesel mixed in their diesel fuel and are not required to even label it until 10%- 15%. The Biodiesel process uses alcohol specifically methanol and some of it remains in the fuel.

Most lift pumps specifically including the ones on 6.5 diesels void the warranty for alcohol use as the materials in them are not rated for it. Not compatible valves in em, yellow metals, blah blah blah - the OEM style lift pump that left me stranded at the Diesel pump, well, I will never forget the damn thing leaking fuel out of it's power wires at the connector. :jawdrop: The DS4 on my 1995 would simply quit if the lift pump wasn't helping it overcome the fuel system restrictions. (My DB2 would loose power with a failed lift pump as the housing pressure was referenced off the inlet PSI.)

I have a lift pump graveyard from serving as a bad example running B99.

So not only did we get a bean counter fuel system to start with: Diesel fuel has changed. We still run the cheap ragged edge of wet dirty Diesel with minimal lube in The USA Not only relibily killing CP4 pumps due to less lube than EU Diesel, but, some CP3 systems can find the hot limits of Diesel fuel lube esp. if the HPCR has a high pressure internal leak on an injector or relief valve.

Do not forget GM in-tank gasoline pumps for this '90 era were also not reliable. They liked to melt the connector at the top of the fuel tank on their way out well before 100K miles. We changed them around 50K, if they made it that long, as a preventive maintenance. Cheaper to do that than pay for a tow when they did die.

Speaking of changes and another reason to consider the aftermarket lift pump filter combo: some of the aftermarket fuel filters for the 6.5 don't even meet the "minimal" OEM minimum micron spec for the DB2/DS4 anymore. Not that the water separator combo filters were worth a damn to start with, they weren't, but to not meet even this old requirement is pretty sad buyer beware.

Again we have aftermarket lift pumps and filter kits because the Big 3 ALL (Specifically Dodge HPCR) went too cheap on filters and water separators pushing the expensive fuel system damage on OUR Wallet! Sometime in the 2010's they may have added filters and water separators that are up to the job. (You drop the tank for supposedly zero maintenance gasoline filters now.) The repair costs to a 6.5TD injection system isn't even the TAX amount for a HPCR overhaul.

Last when I got hit with "wet" fuel... The system that lived was the one with the CAT Water Separator installed. Both had to have new fuel tanks, but, stopped at the CAT. The other was IP and injectors and corroded/rust internally to the point of no core credit.
 
Yep I get all that and to be fair I am running lubricity additive, run standyne only filters and have a fuel pressure gauge.

I hear ya on filtration part of my business is primary and on filtration improvements on boats as well as the occasional tank cleaning etc.

As touched upon in this thread these are 20+ year old trucks that have a maintenance and time cost and there is a list of mods as with many machine to take care of design deficiencies and various experiences that needs to be navigated.

Just one guys anecdotal experience, though I would be intrigued to see data on all the 6.5's over the years in regards to this that perhaps points towards more than a HO Stock style pump, gauge and additive for a daily driver.

Cheers
Nobby
 
One of these motorcycle lifts works mighty fine for dropping tanks, lifting them back into position too. Even if they are loaded with fuel.

It dont necessarily have to be a chinesium unit, just the pic for reference.
I just use the transmission cradle adapter for my 3½T floor jack for dropping/lifting fuel tanks. In fact, that's what I bought it for, dropping the fuel tank in my daughter's old Dakota when the fuel pump took a dump. Still haven't used it on a transmission (yet). The transmission adapter was only about $50 off eBay five years ago.
 
I just use the transmission cradle adapter for my 3½T floor jack for dropping/lifting fuel tanks. In fact, that's what I bought it for, dropping the fuel tank in my daughter's old Dakota when the fuel pump took a dump. Still haven't used it on a transmission (yet). The transmission adapter was only about $50 off eBay five years ago.
I should check My trundle jack, see if I can find a transmixer adapter for it. That jack is always on the floor and handy. That MC lift jacknot hangs on the wall, a person could rupture a spleen lifting that thing on, or, off its wall hooks. 😹😹😹
 
Yeah, you just pull the saddle off the jack's lift arm and drop the transmission cradle assy into the hole in the arm the saddle came out of. Here's a neat little adapter I fabbed up from a 3" long scrap piece of 1½" diameter steel pipe and a short chunk (about 5") of 2x2x¼" square tubing welded across the top of the pipe, then took my cutoff tool with a 1/16" thick cutting wheel and cut an about ⅜" wide slot down the length of the top of the square tube. When I want to lift any of the Camry's or any vehicle that you lift by the pinch weld "jacking points" by the wheel wells, I put that adapter on my floor jack, instead of using the saddle, to lift the vehicle without crushing the body pinch weld with the jack's saddle. Like the transmission cradle, my gizmo just drops into the hole the saddle came out of.
 
Thats an excellent idea. On that saddle adapter.
Guess If I got offa mine laizeee @sss, probably be able to build a pretty nice transmission, fueltank, whatever kind of a adapter. 😹😹😹
 
Couldn't beat the $50 eBay transmission adapter. All four arms pivot, there are slip hooks and chain lengths welded to the arms to adjust for width/length to secure the transmission to the adapter. There are also hand cranked lead screws to adjust the fore/aft and left/right tilts for perfect alignment during removal/install of the automatic or manual transmission.
 
I will check that out. I have used the motorcycle lift to heist transmissions, transfer cases and differential. There is no tilt option.
Tanks and differentials it does okay.
 
Here's what I'm talking about, @MrMarty51, this is what I'm talking about and virtually identical to the one I bought 5 years ago.
That is a nice unit. Mounting pivot system Almost identical to the heavy duty transmission jack that we had at work.
That is going to be on My to get tool list.
 
Yeah, for the price you can't beat it for dropping trannies, x-fer cases or fuel tanks. I can remember in the good ol' days back when I was 20 and in college, one winter night in an unheated garage, helping my next door neighbor install a "new" used TH350 into his DD '69 4-door Impala, with the front up on drive-on ramps. My job was to bench press the bad tranny down after he got the last of the bell housing bolts out, then bench press the "new" one up and hold it on the dowels as he put in a couple of upper bolts to hold it. Then having to drop the "new" tranny out and repeat that all over again the following night after we discovered, when we went to put the driveshaft back in that night, that he had bought a TH350 with the wrong length tail housing on it for that application. So off he went that next Saturday morning so he could go swap the "new" tranny for the right one at the parts yard that he'd gotten it from the day before after work.

Did the same thing when I put a new clutch in my mom's '80 Datun 510 back in '91 and when I pulled the transaxle in my '80 Subaru 4wd for a clutch back in '92. Now, the Datsun manual transmission and the Subaru's didn't weigh diddly compared to that TH350 with bellhousing and torque converter still attached!
 
Yeah, for the price you can't beat it for dropping trannies, x-fer cases or fuel tanks. I can remember in the good ol' days back when I was 20 and in college, one winter night in an unheated garage, helping my next door neighbor install a "new" used TH350 into his DD '69 4-door Impala, with the front up on drive-on ramps. My job was to bench press the bad tranny down after he got the last of the bell housing bolts out, then bench press the "new" one up and hold it on the dowels as he put in a couple of upper bolts to hold it. Then having to drop the "new" tranny out and repeat that all over again the following night after we discovered, when we went to put the driveshaft back in that night, that he had bought a TH350 with the wrong length tail housing on it for that application. So off he went that next Saturday morning so he could go swap the "new" tranny for the right one at the parts yard that he'd gotten it from the day before after work.

Did the same thing when I put a new clutch in my mom's '80 Datun 510 back in '91 and when I pulled the transaxle in my '80 Subaru 4wd for a clutch back in '92. Now, the Datsun manual transmission and the Subaru's didn't weigh diddly compared to that TH350 with bellhousing and torque converter still attached!
Done that move more than once. Learned the hard way to clean the pan REALLY well before lowering or the oils will cause a slip of the hand and a fat lip. Haha.
 
Done that move more than once. Learned the hard way to clean the pan REALLY well before lowering or the oils will cause a slip of the hand and a fat lip. Haha.
You're not supposed to have your face under the tranny, only your chest, Will! Lay cross-wise, not length-wise when you muscle one out like that. Grasp the tailshaft housing and the edge of the bell housing and slide off the dowels and down 3-4" onto your chest.

Your face shouldn't be in that equation. That explains a couple a three things about you, yuppers, it surely do! Like all those faceplant emojis of yours you use all the time! :banghead: :banghead::hilarious::hilarious::hilarious:
 
You're not supposed to have your face under the tranny, only your chest, Will! Lay cross-wise, not length-wise when you muscle one out like that. Grasp the tailshaft housing and the edge of the bell housing and slide off the dowels and down 3-4" onto your chest.

Your face shouldn't be in that equation. That explains a couple a three things about you, yuppers, it surely do! Like all those faceplant emojis of yours you use all the time! :banghead: :banghead::hilarious::hilarious::hilarious:

Ok, remember that post I made saying when I was 16, I was smart? No? Cuz I was smart enough to know I was dumb - even back then! Haha. Soon after that I got talked into moving an short block 350 by hand. So I strangled it, lifted and waddled it across the yard. Me and the 3 friends around me heard something pop as I lifted, one guy commenting “the oil pan must have been dented inward.” Set it down and as I straightened myself up, I couldn’t get upright the last 20 degrees. That’s when I realized something in me popped. Hello back injury #1 and goodbye first disk of many to go away... haha.

Mom didn’t raise a dummy. She raised a couple of us!
 
I picked up and loaded my 428cj block by myself. When I went to let the tailgate down I took a step back and stumbled on something. Ended up with the block on my stomach as I hit the ground. Good thing I was in pretty good shape back their, I was doing 50 situps in a row with a 25lb plate behind my head. Got back up and finished loading it.
 
Never grab aholt of them tail shaft housings too. Had my hand wrapped around the end of one on the sons ford small pickup thing, It was being a bit stubborn, I knew I could handle that little manual transmixer. But, when it became unstubborn and went in an arch like move towards the floor, the flinger next to the little flinger got sorta crushed between the TS housing and the concrete floor. Right straight across the larger knuckle. That did smart some for quite a while.
My brother, his 65 Mustang convertible, he was replacing the clutch. It was a while and here he came, asked if I had a hydraulic jack, yup. Handed him my little bottle jack, only one I had. After a while I could hear a commotion and quite a string of words. I go over to see what the problem. He has that three speed manual transmission perched on the bottle jack trying to get it lined up without the entire works falling over.
Told Him, let Your jack down, let the trans off the jack, when he got it onto the ground, i crawled under, grabbed the transmission and shoved it into the hole. Yup, it was just the transmission, BH was already bolted in. 😹😹😹😹
He looked at the transmission in amazement and stated, I could have done that. We both busted up laughing.
 
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