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6.5 Starter issues

bison said:
I would look for a tight fit of the bolts trough the starter housing where they come out,stock bolts have a knurled section just above the treads that act as dowels.
A smooth shanked normal machine bolt might have to much play there,allowing the starter to shift away under the gear action from the ring gear,bending of the bolts in the dowel section of the block will give more side play yet and facilitates bolt breaking.
Click to expand...


Seems like the first, inexpensive, next step....I've heard of more than a few issues regarding "NON OEM Starter bolts"......if nothing else, you can rule out the starter bolts.

2 Cents
 
Double checking here, you know the bolts are GM SPECIFIC PART #'s that have a centering type shaft on them before the heads right? They ARE NOT normal hardware store bolts. GM SPECIFIC.

Just making sure. Otherwise listen carefully to Bison.
 
I got the bolts from my local NAPA. Again, brand new M10x1.50x113 starter bolts with the serration before the thread, they are stared bolts, and the exct size called for
 
All American said:
I got the bolts from my local NAPA. Again, brand new M10x1.50x113 starter bolts with the serration before the thread, they are stared bolts, and the exct size called for
Click to expand...

I know it seems like a "no brainer" and you obviously checked the parts and part #'s....Just throwing it out there, these trucks are VERY finicky and sometimes nothing less than, stock, OEM, Genuine GM parts must be used....

For example, T - Stats other than AC Delco will work but you will have cooling issues, Oil Pressure switch other than AC Delco will work, but usually die prematurely and/or give inaccurate readings....there are a few more that slip my mind, but it has been discussed and verified that in some situations there is no other option than Genuine GM parts.

Sorry for beating a "Dead Horse".....Just trying to make a point and explain the reasoning.
:BDH:
 
No, thanks for the input. I was looking on some threads today and found the OEM bolt and starter part numbers, anyone have the flexplate number? Is there a different flexplate associated with different years of the 6.5? Thanks everyone for the help!
 
Flex plates are more or less the same for 6.5 or 6.2 engines. I have used the same Powermaster 9052 starter on both 6.5 and 6.2 engines. Maybe you matched a gas flex plate with a gas flex plate.

Diesel 6.2 and 6.5: Teeth 139 Pitch 10-12 O.D. 14.13

How is the converter? Have any runout on the flex plate when spinning by hand? Bent or not spinning in a circle due to converter issues?
 
War wagon your a genius! The flex plate I was given is 136 teeth and that is what I was told to put in, it is also what was put in the truck by the previous owner when the trans was rebuilt. I asked about other options cause I had a 139 tooth flex plate in my non turbo truck, and they said they don't make it anymore, (good ol autopart store boys) I will run all these part numbers and see what all is screwed up in there. Thanks for the help! Anyone have info on where the numbers are I can run to get a for sure year of this engine?
 
I won't take the credit as others above suggested flex plates.

Use a 2000 or 1999 model year. Because that is at the 10 year parts purge limit. Better yet, check the GM dealer and junkyards. You could also call boycee, boyceequipment.com , and ask them if they have some used ones laying around. I got my last 6.2 from them. Again, same flex plate part for all 6.2/6.5 engines. Other parts can vary by the year.

Sometimes the extra GM dealer expense is worth it. The tensioner assembly is the other best from dealer part... IMO.

More info on block numbers for the year:
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?25096-6.5-engine-numbers
 
Alright thanks guys. Heres an update. I went on www.buychevypartsnow.com and called the 800 number. They were able to look up all the OEM part numbers for me. I apparently have the right starter, but the flex plate has been wrong. The torque converter that someone put in on the rebuild is a 3 bolt mount, and the correct flex plate is for a 6 bolt converter. So I now have the proper flex plate and converter. I am now just waiting on brand new GM OEM starter bolts to come in so I can stop screwing with Taiwan cross referencing. I plan to put all this in on Wednesday, so Ill let y'all know how it goes. Thanks for everyones help!
 
Hi Kris. He may not have responded, hut uis problem was definitely a wrong flywheel from the parts store.

Please tell your whole story. Imagine if he left out that he changed the flywheel- no one would have figured that out.

What's happening with yours? How long have you owned and driven it, etc.?
 
Will L. said:
Hi Kris. He may not have responded, hut uis problem was definitely a wrong flywheel from the parts store.

Please tell your whole story. Imagine if he left out that he changed the flywheel- no one would have figured that out.

What's happening with yours? How long have you owned and driven it, etc.?
Click to expand...
I bought the truck almost a year ago, and it wasn't running at the time. They figured it was a stripped flywheel (could hear the new starter engage but no response from the motor). I got it very cheap so I put the flywheel they bought into it, not thinking about it possibly being wrong. While doing this I realized, like all american, that it had been rebuilt. When I got it back together I got the same response from the truck, starter engages but not turning over. The motor is free, I can turn it by hand so I knew that wasn't the issue. Thinking they might have given me the wrong flexplate
 
So lets cover the bases.
Disconnect negative of both batteries, Drop the starter and flywheel cover.

The flywheel can be installed backwards, make sure it is correct and a tooth count is in order. Hint- paint marker or colored sharpie and mark 10,20,30, etc- is sucks loosing count.

Make sure mouth int ear on block is clean and undamaged. Same with starter mounting surface.
Make sure you have the little front bracket gm part# 23502557.

Bench test the starter. If you dont know how, take it to an autoparts store.

Buy 2 new FACTORY starter mounting bolts- removal and install a few times wipes out the sharp holding edges of the knurling. Gm part #15544950.

Take pics of everything you can along the way and post here- we can spot errors quickly sometimes.
 
"starter engages but not turning over"
There is a bad rash of starter solenoids going around that simply "Thunk" and don't spin the motor. Little SOB's bench test fine, but, fail under a load. In my case it would spin 3 of 4 times.

You could have a bad starter.

You could have a busted crank: You turning the engine over at the rear or just the front?

 
WarWagon said:
"starter engages but not turning over"
There is a bad rash of starter solenoids going around that simply "Thunk" and don't spin the motor. Little SOB's bench test fine, but, fail under a load. In my case it would spin 3 of 4 times.

You could have a bad starter.

You could have a busted crank: You turning the engine over at the rear or just the front?

Click to expand...
I can turn it over from either end. The starter is brand new and I've had it tested. If you remove the debris shield you can watch it engage but it's not contacting the flexplate
 
Just clarifying:
You bench tested the new starter and it is working ok?

You can not turn over the engine from either end?
As in you put a flywheel turner tool on the fly wheel and the engine is stuck?
 
The bendix runs the starter gear all the way out until it hits the bushing/bearing on the end of the shaft when you energize the starter and it does NOT engage the ring gear teeth on the flex plate? Is the Bendix gear not traveling out far enough when it hits the bushing/bearing to reach the ring gear (in which case you flex plate is on backwards most likely)? Or, when the Bendix gear is hits the end of the shaft it is out far enough to reach the ring gear, but there is a gap between the Bendix teeth and ring gear teeth so they don't engage and the Bendix just spins? If that is the case, either the starter has the wrong Bendix gear/drive in it or the flex plate is wrong (too small of diameter). Do NOT use shims with these starters, either. And new starter, you mean brand-spanking new or a new reman? Wrong Bendix drive could have been put on it if a reman from a parts store chain like AutoZone.
 
kris94 said:
I can turn it over from either end. The starter is brand new and I've had it tested. If you remove the debris shield you can watch it engage but it's not contacting the flexplate
Click to expand...

"The starter is brand new and I've had it tested." So? o_O The video of the starter I posted was also tested several times on the bench and after pulling it off and putting it on a second 6.2 engine I owned the video got me a refund. Sadly new parts don't mean good parts. :facepalm:

Have you counted the teeth on the flexplate yet?

This is an automatic trans correct?

Post a photo of the flexplate and we will let you know if it's on backwards.
 
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