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6.5 newbie with what appears to be a blown turbo- what say you?

Yeah, I should point out I'd rather not take the camper off and wrestle the bed around. Dropping is possible, yes? There are about 5 gals. left in the tank, FYI, and I have a bucket that will take it all.
 
Sentinelist said:
Yeah, I should point out I'd rather not take the camper off and wrestle the bed around. Dropping is possible, yes? There are about 5 gals. left in the tank, FYI, and I have a bucket that will take it all.
Click to expand...

Again you need to verify the lift pump pressure is staying up when it stalls, that there isn't any air in the return line, and RPM at idle even guess from the tach. Air entering the system while the truck is off will cause hard starting and stalling. Throttle shaft seals leak. IP to FFM hoses rot. FFM heaters get pinholes. Injectors stick open. the fuel pickup assembly rusts through. Air is a bitch to track down. Plugged tank sock would show up as a pressure loss at the water drain when the engine is stalling.

If the tank is getting serviced I would get a METRUM ROD FSU from Leroy sent overnight. This replaces the factory fuel level sensor with a bomb proof one you forget about.

I suggest you don't know the fuel level in the tank. Don't trust the sensor and gauge reading. Try and get as much fuel out as you can with the lift pump before you drop the tank - except you are better off using a siphon hose because if the sock is plugged you can't empty the tank. I had both the sensor fail and a plugged sock when I dropped a full 40+ gal suburban tank I thought was empty. We got a bath...

To drop the tank you first disconnect the fuel level sensor plug. (Almost have to do that by feel.) Then you deal with two tank straps to lower the tank some. Then you disconnect the fuel fill and vent hose along with the fuel pickup and return lines.

I have had finicky IP's with worn injectors stall out on me hot. Again the idle adjustment is helpful.
 
The ATT turbo will literally pay for itself. I have one on my other truck. I just purchased its replacement, 1998 3500hd drw gm8 turbo. This thing is such a dog, and swallows fuel like a gasser. If it wasn't -10 here in Boston I'd swap the turbos and install new DE. You picked the right guy to buy your parts from, leroy has been more than good to me. I'm not a fan of the duramax, or any other of the big 3 diesels. The 6.5td is very dependable, easy to work on and powerful if configured right. I was getting almost 17mpg in my other k3500. Sorry no advise on your engine trouble, I ask here myself, haven't been steered wrong yet. Good luck!
 
turbovanman said:
That must have cost a pretty penny, :eek:
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It was still $299 shipped. DE has a wharehouse in Dallas (his back yard).
Bostonguy said:
The ATT turbo will literally pay for itself. I have one on my other truck. I just purchased its replacement, 1998 3500hd drw gm8 turbo. This thing is such a dog, and swallows fuel like a gasser. If it wasn't -10 here in Boston I'd swap the turbos and install new DE. You picked the right guy to buy your parts from, leroy has been more than good to me. I'm not a fan of the duramax, or any other of the big 3 diesels. The 6.5td is very dependable, easy to work on and powerful if configured right. I was getting almost 17mpg in my other k3500. Sorry no advise on your engine trouble, I ask here myself, haven't been steered wrong yet. Good luck!
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Most report 3MPG improvement. Was it you that got 5?
 
Yep, gotta love local distribution centers. There are more than I can count in DFW, the latest being Amazon's fulfillment center monster just down the road from me. Maybe I can beta test their new drone delivery program, or shoot them, one. The rest of Leroy's goodies will hopefully arrive tomorrow. No problem, since the truck won't run for more than 10 seconds still and I cancelled my little trip for the wknd. I'll be wrenching in glorious 70-degree WX this wknd.

I went to my local Chebby dealer today and picked up a new OPS. I eagerly got home, decided this would be the first part replaced, whipped the hood open and... the intake manifold has to come off doesn't it... Seems so. On the list for Saturday.

Also, this CDR valve on the passenger valve cover gasket (?), is that the vacuum pod sticking up next to the turbo with an intake hose off the air box inlet hose?
 
WarWagon- I'll be referring back through your notes as I go. The fuel gauge works fine. I know I have less than a fifth of a tank in the thing, so there won't be any problems turning it over and emptying it into a 5-gal. bucket one I drop it. I slid under there this evening and it appears to be just 2 bolts on those straps on the in-side of the tank holding it in? Hope that's right, won't be difficult if so. It appears the lines and wires are up top- hopefully they'll flex down. I have a few half-cinder blocks I'll drop it onto below and start working my way through the parts. I'm also thinking of leaving my existing lift pump in place (offline, with port caps to keep it clean) for redundancy in case I never need to switch back over out in BFE. Had a coworker recommend this to me and thought it was a good idea, as he actually had to do just that to get out in a remote area with his '97 Cummins.
 
Sentinelist said:
Yep, gotta love local distribution centers. There are more than I can count in DFW, the latest being Amazon's fulfillment center monster just down the road from me. Maybe I can beta test their new drone delivery program, or shoot them, one. The rest of Leroy's goodies will hopefully arrive tomorrow. No problem, since the truck won't run for more than 10 seconds still and I cancelled my little trip for the wknd. I'll be wrenching in glorious 70-degree WX this wknd.

I went to my local Chebby dealer today and picked up a new OPS. I eagerly got home, decided this would be the first part replaced, whipped the hood open and... the intake manifold has to come off doesn't it... Seems so. On the list for Saturday.

Also, this CDR valve on the passenger valve cover gasket (?), is that the vacuum pod sticking up next to the turbo with an intake hose off the air box inlet hose?
Click to expand...

Im looking forward to some warmer weather to. This bone chilling 30-40* temps suck :chillpill:

As far as OPS, its not bad on a 93. Its way back behind driver side head on bell housing. You need a deep 1-1/16" socket or AutoZone sells a special socket for OPS.
I thought for sure you would have all your parts today. For sure tomorrow.
CDR is the can sticking out of pass side valve cover.


Sentinelist said:
WarWagon- I'll be referring back through your notes as I go. The fuel gauge works fine. I know I have less than a fifth of a tank in the thing, so there won't be any problems turning it over and emptying it into a 5-gal. bucket one I drop it. I slid under there this evening and it appears to be just 2 bolts on those straps on the in-side of the tank holding it in? Hope that's right, won't be difficult if so. It appears the lines and wires are up top- hopefully they'll flex down. I have a few half-cinder blocks I'll drop it onto below and start working my way through the parts. I'm also thinking of leaving my existing lift pump in place (offline, with port caps to keep it clean) for redundancy in case I never need to switch back over out in BFE. Had a coworker recommend this to me and thought it was a good idea, as he actually had to do just that to get out in a remote area with his '97 Cummins.
Click to expand...
You want to diconnect filler neck from bed and there is a small ground right there too.
I use an ATV jack.
Your LP would be better off in a plastic bag in a tool box IMO.

Atleast you won't be rushed now to get the job done and can save money by doing it yourself.
 
I've dropped my fuel tank a few times. Perhaps this diagram will be of some assistance to you in your endeavor this weekend.

Fuel System.gif

It got up to 38* today. Downright balmy. Drove around with the sunroof open.
 
Thanks for this- any words of wisdom or steps to take in order? It looks like it may be Sunday before I can tackle it all.

Parts showed up today! I'm assuming the turbo is what's at the PO that I missed the signature for while at work. Will try and grab it tomorrow.
 
Advice...
Get as much fuel out as possible before starting the work. 5 gal is very heavy and with the tank baffle, there will probably be at least two in there after you've gotten 'it all out.'
Spray the bolts and nuts with something to loosen them up as there will be crud and rust fighting you all the way. There was a thread on here that said 50/50 Acetone and I thing transmission fluid was best over Liquid Wrench, WD40 and PB Blaster or even Kroll oil. Use what you got. Start spraying now.
Put the truck up on some jack stands to give you a little extra room. Your head, neck and arms will thank you later.
Start with the Filler neck and work your way down to the tank.
As Leroy said, ATV, Transmission or jack stand under it while you remove the nuts and bolts.
Use an air or electrical powered wrench; especially on the rear strap as that bolt is long. I used a floor jack with a piece of plywood to spread the load...precarious...ouch! ATV or Tranny Jack next time (please never again, three times in one year was enough).
Go after the rear strap bolt first and then the front. I removed the front bracket from the frame when I couldn't wiggle the tank out / off the bracket due to clearance between frame, bed and being a weakling.
Be sure to disconnect the fuel sender's electrical lead at the frame so it doesn't self disconnect while being lowered.The cinder blocks are a great idea once you get it lowered enough to get at the fuel line fittings.
There are rubber lines at the fuel sender running to the metal lines on the frame so you just need to get it lowered enough to get at the fittings.
Any other work on the tank means getting it out of there completely so make sure the jack is back in there when you decide to remove the cinder blocks.
 
This is NOT a Cummins!!! :nonod: Completely different animal with it's own quirks, weaknesses, and advantages. The 6.5 lift pump is flow on fail as is the Walbro. The 1993 IP will run ok with a dead lift pump and it won't hurt the IP like some years of Cummins are famous for. Yes, you will have reduced power and harder starting, but, my 1993 has come home many times with a dead lift pump. So your 1993's lift pump although important and helpful to engine running is not as critical as your buddies 1997 Cummins.

Again the most fragile thing is the fuel level sensor wires. Disconnect it before dropping the bolts on the tank or it will try and hold the tank up ripping out wires. I recall you have to remove the fill hoses on the way down as they hold the tank up some. Hardest part is getting that 20+ year old stiff fill hose back on the tank. WD-40 lube the hose and warm it up with a hair dryer. Unbolting the fuel filler from the bed (an unnecessary step unless the hoses have trouble coming off) gives you room, but, the fill hoses still have to come off to clear the frame. Don't forget the ground strap to the bed on the fuel fill hose metal assembly. It must be in place when you are done as it may need to be removed. Then after the tank is down some you can get to the the fill and return lines. These have an o-ring on them that should be replaced.

Do not trust the gauge for fuel level.
 
WarWagon said:
This is NOT a Cummins!!! :nonod: Completely different animal with it's own quirks, weaknesses, and advantages. The 6.5 lift pump is flow on fail as is the Walbro. The 1993 IP will run ok with a dead lift pump and it won't hurt the IP like some years of Cummins are famous for. Yes, you will have reduced power and harder starting, but, my 1993 has come home many times with a dead lift pump. So your 1993's lift pump although important and helpful to engine running is not as critical as your buddies 1997 Cummins.
Click to expand...

Great info, I knew our DB2's could run without a lift pump, It has been mentioned they won't but my lift pump has been dead for 2 months, it did damage my IP from what I can tell, runs so much better with a properly working fuel pump.
 
Continued thanks, and yes I'm well aware that this is not a Cummins... the redundant LP-in-place idea is still a good one if I can make it work, though I'll likely take Leroy's advice and just stick it in a bag and have in the cab. Now, how much of this am I going to be able to get at through the filler neck hole with all the connections being on top of the tank? There appears to be zero room to access any of this with the tank up. Is there any slack on these connections if I were to unbolt the tank and drop it 6"? I'll run the LP to empty the tank into a 5 gal. bucket if that works.

I'm not able to get away from the house this morning within the tight confines of the post office Saturday hours, so I'll have to figure out how to pick up the turbo later... I no longer have a deadline to get this thing back on the road, so any further delays aren't a big deal. To the point that this is starting to move into the back burner as I have other tasks I've got to get to work on ASAP next week without any progress tomorrow. We'll see! Going to try and get the OPS on first and the filters on late today.
 
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