• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

6.5 grounds

Missy Good Wench said:
The factory cables have one big issue.

If the cables are 5 years old or more I would just replace them.
Click to expand...

Is there a specific part number? Or can we just purchase cable from autozone? Or - is it best not to go OEM but aftermarket?

On a side note - I'm sure glad I read this. I know that I've been told multiple times to check grounds, but with the rest of the list of things to do, I've been looking for less laborous excuses, haha. But anyhow - everything that Tim mentioned in his very first post explains my trucks symptoms. Here's my truck starting this morning...actually didn't take as long to start then last night at least.

http://s590.photobucket.com/albums/ss345/treegump/?action=view&current=Video014.flv
 
also - should a braided strap be replaced with another braided strap - or can it be binded back together somehow (and if so - how), or is there an after market strap/cord to use?
 
Great thread, when I put on the ATT, I did mine in the engine area.

I replaced some of mine with braided straps that I got at the local farm supply store.
 
treegump said:
also - should a braided strap be replaced with another braided strap - or can it be binded back together somehow (and if so - how), or is there an after market strap/cord to use?
Click to expand...

I ditched the entire braid thing all together and took heavy gauge wire and routed it down towards the wheelwell where a bolt holds the brake line on.

No more burnt ground strap, and I can keep my eye on it.
 
Matt Bachand said:
I ditched the entire braid thing all together and took heavy gauge wire and routed it down towards the wheelwell where a bolt holds the brake line on.

No more burnt ground strap, and I can keep my eye on it.
Click to expand...

would copper grounding wire work alright (the 4 gauge stuff)? I have some left over from rewiring my garage.
 
treegump said:
would copper grounding wire work alright (the 4 gauge stuff)? I have some left over from rewiring my garage.
Click to expand...

You talking about solid copper single strand wire you put on a gnd rod ?

If it's that then no,

Needs to be flexible, I use a common negative battery cable you get at wally world etc, the kind with bolting ring lugs both ends.
 
Turbine Doc said:
You talking about solid copper single strand wire you put on a gnd rod ?

If it's that then no,

Needs to be flexible, I use a common negative battery cable you get at wally world etc, the kind with bolting ring lugs both ends.
Click to expand...

I was talking about the 4 strands wrapped - that goes from the breaker panel to the copper rod. BUT- I'm sure glad that you guys point out the obvious - hadn't even thought about a negative battery cable with ends already attached, haha. Sometimes I get to thinking so much, I totally miss the obvious.
 
treegump said:
I was talking about the 4 strands wrapped - that goes from the breaker panel to the copper rod. BUT- I'm sure glad that you guys point out the obvious - hadn't even thought about a negative battery cable with ends already attached, haha. Sometimes I get to thinking so much, I totally miss the obvious.
Click to expand...

All the vibrations would work-harden the wire and break it.
 
Thanks Tim for this info and it was nice talking to you tonight. I'll get busy this weekend after I get her home tomorrow and have some time to play. I may just replace them all and clean the contacts up and start fresh. I sure hope this makes the rebuilt tranny function properly now.
 
Thanks for the post Tim. My truck is still down Ill be going over these grounds. I changed out the fuel filter and found alot of debris on the bottom of the bowl and it still dies at any giving time. Thanks again for the info.
 
Gunner0812 said:
Thanks for the post Tim. My truck is still down Ill be going over these grounds. I changed out the fuel filter and found alot of debris on the bottom of the bowl and it still dies at any giving time. Thanks again for the info.
Click to expand...

You and I just need to get together and play with the trucks. You have knowledge I need help with and I may have some you need help with. Experience with issues can be a beautiful thing. (no smiley as my comp is having issues too)
 
I'm going to start playing with all the grounds on Saturday unless a job comes up and then I'll do it afterwards. I have lights.
Let me know.
 
TD, excellent, sticky worthy writeup as usual!

MGW, you mentioned the difference between the 94 and 95 grounds, I was wondering if this would require me modding something to swap a 94 motor into my 95? I really don't like modding OEM harnesses, especially if they are still good. oh, and dumb question, but surely all the motors have the same ground locations, or at least all the same provisions, right? (at least between 94 and 95)
 
I finally got around to checking my grounds, and besides the 2 grounding posts on the passenger side of the backside of the engine, I got the others wire brushed and/or replaced. My passenger side frame to engine was broken off at the engine, so I went ahead and attached a new cable from the frame to the front post (where the battery negative is located). And then I went from the frame to the body (and attached that also where the battery negative is mounted on the passenger side). My truck still cranks over ~3-5 times before starting though :(.
 
Looks like time for a new mulitmeter. :eek:

attachment.php


I went throught the process and uncovered some questionable connections. Thanks for pointing them all out because I missed a few.
 
SuperTuscan said:
Looks like time for a new mulitmeter. :eek:

attachment.php


I went throught the process and uncovered some questionable connections. Thanks for pointing them all out because I missed a few.
Click to expand...

yes that meter is a veteran of many tron battles, the LCD under the outer lens is still good so until I break it the rest of the way it's a perfect meter for keeping in the truck.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top