• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

6.5 Engine Removal

Big T

Big T

Well-Known Member
Messages
13,341
Reaction score
30,391
Location
Fullerton, CA
The time has come for removing the engine, trans, etc. from he wrecked '95 Suburban in my backyard. Can someone post a step-by-step removal how to for us to follow?
 
Yes.
Most engine hoists dont go high enough, so you'll have to lift it as high as you can then grab the tail of the trans and lift it up and over the core support.
 
Burning oil said:
Yes.
Most engine hoists dont go high enough, so you'll have to lift it as high as you can then grab the tail of the trans and lift it up and over the core support.
Click to expand...

What are you referring to as core support? Radiator core? If so, we can cut that out as the vehicle hull is being scrapped.
 
I had to remove the radiator core support as I had no helper. Use the largest hoist possible. This assembly is way heavier than small block I used hoist for previously. Same with stand, stronger is better. I worried the whole time it was on the stand. Next time I'll use chainfall from above, inside my barn. I didn't have choice last time as truck died in GF's yard and was to far to tow.
 
Big T said:
What are you referring to as core support? Radiator core? If so, we can cut that out as the vehicle hull is being scrapped.
Click to expand...
Yes, rad core support. Sawsall will have it out of the way in 2 minutes
 
When I moved my engine and trans from my old extra cab and put in the crew cab, I took the whole radiator support out. Engine and trans at the same time. As heavy as that was I didn't want that much weight high enough to go over the support. I also drained all the fluids first. It sheds a little weight, but more so prevents a huge mess.
 
750lbs unless hang-ons are there, the 840 lbs is listed weight for the 6.5.
540lbs for the 7.4 gasser loaded.
Add 250-270lbs for the 4l80e

That's why it says to do it that way, liability based on the p.o.s. hoist by kent moore the mfr mandates be in every dealership.

What is your lift capable of?
 
This seems obvious, but the most importand weight capacity is the one at full extention. That # is usually a big lie, as in it will hold that weight, but is usualyl unstable and makes one worry. My next 6.5 engine removal, if I am unable to use chainfall in barn, I will go out and buy an expensive hoist. I was lucky last time when I went to HF and bought their stand and appropriate hoist. I learned my lesson when not to cheap out.
 
FatFut said:
When I moved my engine and trans from my old extra cab and put in the crew cab, I also drained all the fluids first. It sheds a little weight, but more so prevents a huge mess.
Click to expand...

Unless you have the bolt on yoke witch come to think about it I think they all do?? if yes I wouldn't drain it IMO.
 
Don't forget the crossmember that's in the way - not the one that supports the torsion bars. I have pulled the entire powertrain with the transfer case. Removed front clip to do so. On the wreck you can remove the fenders. On a truck to put back together the front clip removal is harder and causes more trouble than just splitting the engine/trans.

An engine leveler helps, but, I used a come a long to hold up the trans instead. I forget where I attached it other than on the engine lift.
 
First time I yanked a engine/trans together in the ford dealership with the come along to the trans, the guys around me were laughing. When I beat book time with 2/3 time left, the shut up quick.
 
Will L. said:
First time I yanked a engine/trans together in the ford dealership with the come along to the trans, the guys around me were laughing. When I beat book time with 2/3 time left, the shut up quick.
Click to expand...

Explain this come along use on the transmission.
 
On your engine there should already be 2 lifting lugs mounted on the heads, on opposite corners. Hooking a chain from these 2 points will lift the engine fairly level, but without the ability to change the angle of it. When you lift with the trans attached, it will sag the rear of the engine quite a bit, and you will have the need to change the angle of the engine transmission combo to finagle it out and back in again later.

If you attach the cable end of the come along at the rear of the trans in a loop around the rear of the tail stock, and the cable will basically follow the top of the trans up over the rear of the engine then hook the body side of the come along at the hooking point of the hoist. It Is important to hook the top of the come along in a place where you can operate the handle and release mechanism, as well as attach it to something other than the lifting chain that is holding the engine so you can adjust the pitch or tilt of the assembly. By loosening or tightening the come along you can change the pitch of the engine transmission combo as needed to remove it. This will also take up some of the weight of the engine lifting chain when you need to carry it straight. You do not need a big come along for this, 300lbs load max, so the smaller the better for being in the tight area.

One creative cat actually welded a mount plate for a little cheap 4 wheeler winch on top of his lifting arm to use as a counter balance cable. Worked great, called it his micro crane.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top