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6.5 dies out

L

lil_kurtz

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Location
Lowell Indiana
Hi guys, i have a 98 chevy k2500 f vin. i drove my truck this morning and it was running fine. i was sitting at school idling and it died out. i had my ecm-b fuse pop about two weeks ago and replaced it. i don't know why it does it. i keep checking the fuse and its fine. i don't know why it keeps dying out. it does it every once in a while. thanks for your help.
 
When it does run does it lack of power? if yes its probably fuel delivery. If no probably the PMD. Check my site when you get a minute.

Welcome to TTS.
 
OPS usually won't kill the engine.
Where is PMD mounted? Its on a heat sink?
 
lil_kurtz said:
What is ops? And the pmd is located on top of the intake and it has a cooler not the heat sinc
Click to expand...

OPS = Oil Pressure Sensor.
Your new PMD could be damaged already. What you are calling is a cooler is a heat sink. Its the aluminium thing the PMD is mounted to. Mounting it ontop of the engine is the worst place to put it.
Do you have a spare to try? If not you should carry a spare in these trucks at all times.
Did you move the ground wire to the heat sink also? if yes put it back on the IP.
Do you have a short extension harness to the PMD? If yes temp remove it and see if problem go's away.
Where did you buy PMD? What brand?
As you can tell I am leaning very heavy that the PMD is the problem with the info presented so far.
 
I'm casting my bet on lift pump. As mine started to go, it blew the ECM-B fuse and turned the truck off. As the lift pump starts to die, it'll draw more current and pop the fuse.

If you don't have gauges, I'd suggest 'em. Don't buy the GlowShift Direct fuel pressure gauge, though. My EGT and Boost gauges are fine, but I'm on my second dead fuel pressure sending unit and have to return it for a third.
 
He said it runs strong any other time though. Bad LP will run slugish. I agree fuel psi gauge is important. We would have the answer if there was one.
 
the pmd that is on there was there when i got the truck back in september. i did ground in to the heat sync. i bought the extension harness and a number 9 resistor and never put the harness on.
 
Burning oil said:
He said it runs strong any other time though. Bad LP will run slugish. I agree fuel psi gauge is important. We would have the answer if there was one.
Click to expand...

Agreed. However, mine seemed to run perfectly fine while the pump was running. It would just pop the fuse and shut off. I didn't realize how sluggish it was till I got the new one from you, Leroy. Kind of a "frog in the frying pan" situation. I did notice my mileage going down, though.

Any change in your mileage recently?
 
Dunedain15 said:
Agreed. However, mine seemed to run perfectly fine while the pump was running. It would just pop the fuse and shut off. I didn't realize how sluggish it was till I got the new one from you, Leroy. Kind of a "frog in the frying pan" situation. I did notice my mileage going down, though.

Any change in your mileage recently?
Click to expand...

Its very important to run a relay especialy with an aftermarket pump. I'd go so far as to say it should be required for warranty and should eliminate blowing the fuse.
The stock harness is what! 18ga wire?
I make a relay harness now if anyone needs it $120 (not on my site yet)
Thank you for your purchase BTW :thumbsup:
 
Which is better the BWD switch, or the ACDelco? I did my research and I'm going to buy a new ops switch later on today. How long does it take to change out the sensor. I know that it is located under the fuel filter assembly. If everything goes right when switching it out how long do you guys think like possible 2 hours?
 
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