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6.5 belt tensioner

Turbine Doc

Just Another Diesel Guy
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Gautier, Ms./Anywhere Southern USA
Much discussion of late on belt tensioners and belt lengths so I wanted to put out a summary & pics from archived photos. For the 98 model truck & burb, standard belt length is 101", p/n's in part point http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?t=629 when removing tha vac pump general consensus is run a 1" shorter belt, for me the I required a 1.5" shorter belt as after a week of running my belt depending on mfr of the belt it is too long and out of range for the proper tensioning see pics.
 

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Now when a belt is too long it can cause a high pitched squeal making you think bearings in alt are bad, or the tensioner itself is bad, if you replace the belt and tensioner is truly bad here, it rather easy to replace it, single bolt in center of the tensioner 3/8" square drive in the end of the tensioner, apply torque to move the tensioner off the belt, remove bolt in center, depending on year may be a torx head, or 6 point bolt in center. Some slight variation to theme in a earlier model truck with a/c on passenger, alt on driver side vehicle. Tq for center bolt is 37 lb-ft

Disclaimer this is for a single aleternator setup, I've been told dual alternators have a different length belt.

Goodyear Gatorback

Part # Metric part # #Ribs Effective length Outside length

4061187 6PK3015 6 118.75 119.5


There weren't many choices for this length and 6 rib. I'm not really thrilled with it but the next shorter won't fit. Need to try the pulling an alt and putting the belt on trick.

After being on for about a month the tensioner shifts to the indicator being maxed out. No squeeling or erratic pumping.
 

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I had to replace the serp belt on my Cummins dodge a month or so ago. What a biotch...had to loosen the tensioner to slip the belt behind it. I expected to do the belt on the side of the highway should need arise. I am glad I did it in the garage. I luv my Burb...
 
never saw my 6.5 intact b4 i baught it but i think i have it assembled right, however the damn belt will not stay on!!!!! been through 4 autozone tensioners not even sure i guessed rite on the alt but it sure is frustrating!!!!!!! any help would be real welcome
 
Something has to be on an angle, Todd... you need to fill out your signature so swe know what year and model of truck you have - they're all different geometry up front.

Click on the link in my signature to get there.
 
My wife helped me re-install the serpentine belt today after installing the CPS. The tensioner with the new belt installed is at position "A"; she is at.....oh forget it.):h
 
Since his is a '95, If he's running a vac pump I'm hoping he's runnin a 102.5" belt... thats what mine called for anyways. Then without the vac pump I run 101.5" I think and no problems yet :). Then again, depending on how old the belt he installed... it may have stretched out.
 
1995 model :
Alternator, tensioner -> driver side
AC -> passenger side


later models after with the dual t-stats have the tensioner on the passenger side.

Alternator + tensioner -> passenger side
AC -> driver side


HOPE THIS HELPS :


960228TC01-023.gif


EXC C60 -> Without AC
C60 -> WITH AC
KXB - WITH DUAL ALTERNATORS
 
My 1993 6.5 tensioner won't go far enough to get belt off. My 18mm pipe wrench slips over the nut when I try to move the tensioner more. I'm turning the nut clockwise. Is that right?
 
Try a 6 point socket

yep my neighbor had one. piece of cake. Now how about that water pump mounting bracket that needs to come off the stud? Not to mention the a/c bracket that must come off those two studs. I'm doing the water pump 1993 6.5 turbo d.
 
I use 15 mm 6 point deep sockets on these nuts and use a slim 15 mm open end wrench to hold the stud behind the brackets to prevent the stud from turning.
 
The part #s at beginning of thread are for wrong application. Those are 119 inches. The one Bill Heath sold me was an inch long(k061000). I went to napa and ended up with k060994 which is 99 and 3/4 ish. This puts the tension on the last acceptable mark and didn't dare go smaller as I am using the truck to commute in an out of Cambridge and my back won't tolerate a roadside repair at night. I got rid of the bad deflection between crank and alt pulleys. This has been a good thread in that I went and looked at the tension marks and saw a problem. It also taught me to verify parts are correct. I am lucky I did not throw the belt as the tension was bottomed out. Sometime your better off lucky than smart.
 
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