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6.5 “pops” & blows black smoke intermittently

Leroy’s comes with either a #5 or #9 resistor. I think the #9 is the most preferred.
 
A friend said he might have a spare pmd when he swapped his blown 6.5 for a gasser a few years ago. I got the one one from Leroy’s but I can always return it for another part that I will sure need, like lift pump. I took the truck to AutoZone, but there were no codes. I drove it 30 minutes out and then another minutes back, but it didn’t do the “backfiring”.
 
Did you get the heatsink and Made in USA extension cable? Even in days I eat beans that was worth the extra money. I didn't have PMD trouble with the MADE IN USA setup and I manage to break or defective out near everything...
 
I have to buy the one from my buddy because it’s his dad’s, but I am getting a good deal and get to test it first. It doesn’t have sticker but comes mounted on a heat sink (gold in color) and has a pretty long cable. It does say it’s made in the USA and has a resistor inside.
 
Lost out on the used 1, so I will be putting Leroy’s 1 in this weekend. Are people actually installing them in the front bumper, or behind it in the chassis by the radiator?
 
Ray2377 said:
Are people actually installing them in the front bumper, or behind it in the chassis by the radiator?
Click to expand...

A place where it gets airflow is best.

Had one from Heath mounted on a skid plate which lasted 40K miles before it started to fail. Its replacement was mounted inside the bumper hole and upstream of the cooling stack.

Have seen where some mount the FSD to a brush guard.
 
The FSD unit itself is sealed rather well which leaves the only point for moisture exposure at the plug.

The plug (on the male side) should have what looks like silicon ribs to keep water out of the connection. If you want, just add some grease (example: dielectric) for an extra layer of protection on the female (FSD) side.

Many run with the FSD completely exposed to the elements and I do not recall any notations of failure from a good plug setup.

As mentioned, I got 40K out of my FSD which was exposed to the elements. It failed internally and the cure to making the truck work normal again was simply to swing the plug over to a new FSD. I did not use grease on that connection.
 
OK. The wiring harness from the pump has he pink wire broke at the connector, so it’s butt-spliced to the connector to the old pmd. The old pmd has no resistor and a small amount of corrosion on the connector terminals. I plugged the new one in and idle tested it. Both seemed to run the same while accelerating at idle.
 
There is also a black wire that comes up from the IP in the connector bundle that goes back in towards the engine and locks down tight somewhere. Maybe it’s a ground?
 
There are 4 grounds that bolt to the passenger side head where the trans dipstick bolts to. It’s possibly going there if it’s a ground.

It’s a good idea to take all the grounds off and clean them from time to time to help keeping electrical gremlins away.
 
On the factory harness right at the IP, on Mt truck, there was a short grounding wire with a loop terminal on the end of it. The wire had broke so I added on a longer length the same gauge and grounded it on a bolt/stud that holds on the intake manifold.
 
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