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6.2 Swap Into A Gas Truck.

DZZ71 said:
truck007.jpg


Look what we found today......
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The mythical "boat anchor".

Still, probably lots of parts you can sell off for some good bucks.....
 
It probably had straight water or the coolant was too thing and it cracked over the winter. I had a parts block do the same thing recently that now sits atop the pile at the local scrap yard. 6.2 blocks should be cheap where ever you find them. They aren't always as easy to find as you would think though.
 
randomid25 said:
It probably had straight water or the coolant was too thing and it cracked over the winter. I had a parts block do the same thing recently that now sits atop the pile at the local scrap yard. 6.2 blocks should be cheap where ever you find them. They aren't always as easy to find as you would think though.
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No quite lol. I can almost guarentee u it was from the crash that ripped it out. But I think I'm gonna glue it back in and use the engine on an airboat
 
Helps if you remove the bolt from the engine mount before lifting the engine out... ):h

Wow! Poor thing took a hit!
 
God I hope this guy is kidding!!!! I mean you know it's just the block I guess you the thingy that holds the pistons and crank and oil and fuel and air in and heads on and the compression in. I guess really you could prolly through some duct tape on there and give her hell for about .00000000000000000000000000000000000000000012 seconds before it pops again.
 
big block 88 said:
God I hope this guy is kidding!!!! I mean you know it's just the block I guess you the thingy that holds the pistons and crank and oil and fuel and air in and heads on and the compression in. I guess really you could prolly through some duct tape on there and give her hell for about .00000000000000000000000000000000000000000012 seconds before it pops again.
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Piston Wall is fine? All the outer block wall does is holds coolant does it not? I have glued together radiators and they held fine I don't see what the big deal is if I just try it. And if it doesent work oh well. My heavy duty mechanic buddy just told me about some really tough to part epoxy glue. I got nothing to lose trying it.
 
DZZ71 said:
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Piston Wall is fine? All the outer block wall does is holds coolant does it not? I have glued together radiators and they held fine I don't see what the big deal is if I just try it. And if it doesent work oh well. My heavy duty mechanic buddy just told me about some really tough to part epoxy glue. I got nothing to lose trying it.
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The area ripped out is the engine mount pad.

Epoxy in that area would be futile. It would either rip out when the torque came on or fly apart on the first heat cycle.

At best, you may be able to have it welded....but I wouldn't.

Personally, I'd take it apart and transplant the rotating components into a good block or sell them. You can get decent coin for that stuff if it's in good shape, which it should be if it was recently rebuilt before it was wrecked.

Your choice...
 
DZZ71 said:
I got nothing to lose trying it.
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True enough... aside from the time it takes to put everything together correctly, get it installed, running, and tuned. Only to do it all over again if (when) it fails.

Might be a good candidate for some block cement before the epoxy as long as you're at it... might reduce the stresses on the epoxy joints, who knows?
 
I really hope you are joking thinking that epoxy would fix that. The only thing that block is good for is a mooring. The ONLY way it could even possibly be attempted to fix would be welding it and that it exremly difficult, requires special rod, heat and someone who really knows WTF they are doing and the cost of all that would far outweigh the value of that block not to mention as has been said, it's the spot where all the torque is. Blocks are generally only welded in non stressed areas with small cracks, not what you have. Believe me, if fixing a block were that easy, there would be ALOT of happy cummins "53" block owners.
 
Acesneights1 said:
I really hope you are joking thinking that epoxy would fix that. The only thing that block is good for is a mooring. The ONLY way it could even possibly be attempted to fix would be welding it and that it exremly difficult, requires special rod, heat and someone who really knows WTF they are doing and the cost of all that would far outweigh the value of that block not to mention as has been said, it's the spot where all the torque is. Blocks are generally only welded in non stressed areas with small cracks, not what you have. Believe me, if fixing a block were that easy, there would be ALOT of happy cummins "53" block owners.
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Lol I never said it would work. My buddy told me to try it for shitts and giggles . The engine is not even gonna be going into a truck so all the glue will half to do is hold that piece in there. If it doesent work oh well I guess you guys are right. Might as well close down this thread it's pointless now considering I'm not going to put it in a truck anymore........
 
I have a repaired blocks looking far worse than that in my old job running the locomotive Diesel repair shop the last 2 years using metal stitch, but in this case its not economically feasible, but it could maybe repaired with http://www.belzona.com/engines_casings.aspx to make a good engine repaired for a mobile generator set were it not in where the engine mount has to go to be installed in a truck I'd give it a shot to try to repair it, heck the price was rite.
 
Turbine Doc said:
I have a repaired blocks looking far worse than that in my old job running the locomotive Diesel repair shop the last 2 years using metal stitch, but in this case its not economically feasible, but it could maybe repaired with http://www.belzona.com/engines_casings.aspx to make a good engine repaired for a mobile generator set were it not in where the engine mount has to go to be installed in a truck I'd give it a shot to try to repair it, heck the price was rite.
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Hey thanks for the link! From what I have read they said it's better then epoxy and has been proven to work. And yeah the price was right on the free engine. Whitch is why I don't really want to take it apart since it's olny got about 4 months of use on a complete rebuild. And if it doesent work oh well looks like i'm out a few hours of tinkering around and the cost of glue.
 
Belzona is JB Weld on steroids, some of it is so hard it takes a diamond tool to cut it, we used it in the USN, and I introduced it to the rail-road saved a $320K engine removal vs $1000 repair when I left the RR shop this past March that locomotive was still pulling freight nearly a year after the Belzona block repair.

It might be worthwhile contacting the Belzona rep in your area to see what they say; my only concern would be the stresses involved that area for the engine mount,

Possibly Belzona has a formulation that would work with maybe some stiffener metal bonded in with the piece you are trying to save bridging the crack, price of the Belzona kits isn't cheap but far less than a o/h is
 
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