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6.2 rebuild

juanfo

juanfo

New Member
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Location
costa rica
Hi everyone. I am a true beginner at fixing cars. I am trying to get this truck back on the road. A little history. Symptoms are smokes too much on cold start ups and smokes even harder under heavy load. Thick blue smoke all the time. Have to glow forever every start even hot. No cutouts or fishbiting. Power level ok. Started fine everytime with glow cycle. It would run good on flat ground but as soon as I would try to drive it up a long hill or idle in traffic the coolant temp would soar.
Tried first without a tstat and then with a new one. New radiator. New fan clutch. New temp sender. Nothing worked. Overheated every time so that ruled out the easier exterior parts.
Burns oil like a chainsaw. I was using about 1qt for every 4 gallons of diesel.
Bearings worn down to copper. The timing chain has enough slack to skip a tooth. So I took the leap and naively pulled the engine. The HG's had zero leaks. The coolant passages were clogged though. That could explain the overheating. Now I know I should have compression tested the cylinders before removing the heads but oh well too late for that now.
So that's where it's at right now. Engine on an old tire with the heads on a table. This is all first time experience. I am going by what I've learned empirically online. My question is what do I do now? Any advice, questions help, comments, criticism are all welcome and greatly appreciated. Thank you very much.20150921_074808.jpg 20151226_160548.jpg
 
Nice looking truck!

Spend 20 hours Reading here- it will save you HUGE $ and aggravation.

Head bolts are 1 time use only. Arp or new tty headbolts - your call.
Felpro or victor reinz gaskets only.
Check the block for cracks before putting any work into it. Check bore, if both ok then great. Invest in gapless rings if possible. 60 degree crosshatch cylinder walls is crucial.

Remember new cam bearings! Also new rocker arm buttons. Permatex "the right stuff" silicone. New harmonic balancer every 100,000 miles- exception is lifetime fluid damper.

Post pics of everything tore down- guys here catch a lot.
 
Thanks Will I am a "search" true believer. I hope I don't have to get new pistons. I am waiting on an engine stand possibly by the end of the month or sooner if I get lucky so anything lower end is on hold for a couple weeks.
 
I have cast rockers. Bores have no visible crosshatching anymore. Cylinder 3 has marks on the bore surface. Number two piston is all chewed up like someone went at it with an ice pick.
The bores are starting to rust out. Is this bad? Anything I can do about it? Would dabbing motor oil with a rag help?
 
Need to measure the cylinder, see if you have to bore it out. How hard is it to find another block there?
 
There are blocks available. I know of at least 3. One is a complete with serpentine and accesories, DB2, exhaust manifolds and open plenum intake. Owner claims it's from a low miles 92 3500 that got parted out. It's $1000. It even has the engine mounts on it and they are whole as in NO chipped, cracked or dry rotted rubber.
 
Good. That's a just in case question. A lot of times it's cheaper to swap a block than bore and buy new Pistons.

Wet the cylinders with honing oil on a rag, you'll be using it later anyways. How long has it been apart that there is rust in there? You need to check the block for cracks/ damage and measure cylinders to determine if that block is worth proceeding with it.
 
It's been apart since late last year. I oiled the bores and the rust went away. Looked at a couple of blocks and they were worse than mine. All cracked. My block has zero cracks. What if I just put in new bearings and rings with worn out pistons and bores?
 
Worn out Pistons probably not a concern. If the cylinder walls are beyond limits to the point they should be bored with oversized Pistons and you DONT do it, the result will be loss of compression as if the rings are worn out way before they actually are.

Where you are at and being harder to get another good block, and if it is slightly out of tolerance, I would be inclined to run it. What was the reason you pulled it apart- did it have a lot of blow by or bad compression?
 
IIRC he said his cylinder walls didn't have any crosshatch left so chances are they are fairly worn. Even with that might be able to regime and buy some time. Depends on how much time and money he wants to spend for what the end result would be
 
The cylinders on my last block were still in specs. with the cross hatch mostly gone. Hopefully his is still serviceable.
 
In my experience, the cross hatching is never deeper than .0001. And that is somebody that gets carried away. Fingers crossed...
 
I took it apart without measuring compression. Now I know better. Truck was burning through a quart of oil per tank. Smoking heavy thick blue smoke. Would only start with glows even hot. Overheating. Timing chain and gears worn out. Main bearings worn down to copper.
 
Whatsup bros. I took the block to the machine shop. Person there measured the bores with a micrometer and told me to get 40 over pistons and rings.
 
Another choice is getting the block sleeved and use my old pistons with new rings. 3 pistons are -4/1000". 2 pistons are -5/1000". 2 pistons are -8/1000 and one piston is -10/1000". Tell me what you think about sleeves. Thanks for the replys.
 
Nah the machining isn't free. New pistons aren't cheap either down here with cost of shipping. If I could get away with the sleeves and old pistons that would be perfect.
 
I would do what is most cost effective for you.

In Canada, I sometimes have to order a kit with parts I don't need. If I order them as I need them, shipping kills me.
 
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