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6.2 build up recomendations

big block 88

Big Block 88
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Hey guys and gals, I made a thread a few months ago about a couple 6.2's I have sitting around.

I am ready to pull the heads and get some machine work done, I looked and couldn't find a thread on a 6.2 build so i am wanting to know what all of you 6.2/6.5 experts have to say on a build up. I'm getting the bores honed should I overbore? Head work? turbo options? head/main studs? flywheel, balance? oiling upgrades?

I just know very little about these motors and I am pretty dang excited about makeing a nice little highway cruiser, it will never tow anything and never used as a hot rod. I just want good power and excellent mileage in a small half ton z71. I figure I can't find a truck I might aswell start slowly plugging away on the motor build.

Any and all info you have prices, option, opinions let me know, I am knowledge hungry for sure I've learned the d-Max now I am ready to learn about it's grandfather
 
I built a 6.2, 6.5 Clearwater heads, fresh rebuild standard Bosch injectors, A Team Turbo, standard 6.5 head gaskets, ARP Headstuds, KOJO tune, didn't overbore, just honed the cylinders and replaced the bearings in the bottom, fresh timing set and voila, I'm getting almost 18 mpg in a Burb with 4.10's.

I think a well done, fresh 6.2 in a z71 1/2 ton would be magical.
 
Hmm... being partway through paddling the same boat as you're getting into, here are a couple of thoughts:

I'm getting the bores honed should I overbore?

Not if you can help it. You want keep all the meat you can in the block. Not to mention that oversize pistons will set you back 4 bills, and then you'll need some anodizing or ceramic coating done if you see a turbo in your future. Count on another 1-3 bills for that work, depending on how closely you want to replicate the factory 6.5TD piston prep. Std bore 6.2 pistons can be had for shockingly reasonable prices on eBay.


Head work?

At the very least, have everything gone through. Most places will sleeve the crack-prone cooling passages with valve guide inserts. Probably good insurance. Even my brand new Clearwater heads had some serious issues that required a going-over by the machine shop. Glad I had them checked.

turbo options?

Depends on the vehicle, but start I'd start monitoring Craigslist for a Banks system (or at least a pass side exhaust manifold) if you have an older body style truck. Sounds like the ATT or HX35 is the collective choice for upgrades, but I have no experience with it.


head/main studs?

More cheap insurance. Read all the threads about sealing the head studs before installing them. Since the studs are reusuable, they'll pay for themselves the first time you pull the heads. And if they save you a head gasket or cooling system leak even once, they've just SAVED you money. I know that Heath doesn't bother with a girdle, but hell... if you're putting in main studs, why not tie the webs together while you're at it?


> flywheel,

Flex plates are cheap. I've noticed that DD and some other outfits automatically replace them with new on all rebuilds. If you're using a manual trans, just have the flywheel resurfaced, they'll tell you if it needs to be replaced.


> balance?

ABSOLUTELY POSITIVELY. Do NOT skip this step.


> Oiling upgrades?

Hmm... such as ? Aside from using the high volume pump, or adding capacity in the form of more/larger filters or pan, I'm not sure what else one might do there. Unless you're thinking about bypass or centrifugal filtration systems, perhaps? Obviously, the oil cooler lines should be checked carefully and replaced if necessary.


I just know very little about these motors and I am pretty dang excited about makeing a nice little highway cruiser, it will never tow anything and never used as a hot rod. I just want good power and excellent mileage in a small half ton z71. I figure I can't find a truck I might aswell start slowly plugging away on the motor build.

Any and all info you have prices, option, opinions let me know, I am knowledge hungry for sure I've learned the d-Max now I am ready to learn about it's grandfather

Start with a good block and crank. In fact, if I had it to do over again, I'd wait for an affordable late model AMG block to begin with. They're out there. But assuming that's not in your plans, just have your block and crank magnafluxed very carefully, and make sure your crank can get by with polishing alone.
 
Biigy issue with either a 6.2/6.5 is the main webs. Check the center main webs for cracks in and around the outer bolt holes.

The nasty little vermin can be found at times right in the center of the outside bolt hole or slightly off center.

The other spot for cracks is the register fit area where the main cap sits in the block.

A crack in the register fit is a death knell.

Check the number 8 cylinder for cracks too in and around the 8 oclock spot with the block upright and looking in from that side. (RH REAR HOLE)

Be sure to check the cylinder decks for errosion aroun d the fire ring area on all cylinders. 1-2 are the worst for having errosion.

More than a slight etching (if any groove is found) and have the decks cut.

Always use a Felpro 6.5 head gasket on the 6.2. These are stronger and have the updates not found on the 6.2 gasket.

Keep in mind that the head bolts are a one time use item.
The Pushrods always go in with the copper colored ball to the rocker. (the ball will be marked, though it may be faded)

Use a standard 6.2/6.5 oil pump in the non oil squirter blocks. Use of the late oil pump will give you horrendous oil pressure.

If your 6.2 will be going in a GMT400 truck, you need to be sure that you keep the proper injector lines and such along with the heads and injectors.

Using heads for a 6.5 are good as along as the injector lines and injectors are used that work with the combination.

Older 6.2 heads had the injector tipped out more at the top and the later ones are straight with the exhaust flange on the head.

Late 6.2 engines used the same stuff as the 6.5

A set of fresh Cleawater heads is a very good and inexpensive way to go.

The standard 6.5 (pickup style) heads will fit perfect.

Timing sprockets wear very little in these engines and usually just a chain is all thats needed.

If the old engine had a Bazzzzzzilllion miles on it, a fresh set of rocker arm buttons would be a great thing.

Any 6.2 block can be used. The early ones have a two piece rear main and the later ones of late 91 on had a one piece just as the 6.5 does.

Pans are available that will allow any combination to be installed in the truck.

Have fun and keep us posted

Missy
 
Thanks all, we got the motor out of the back of the duece and a half now just having to build a HD engine stand. The motor SEEMS to be in good shape pulled the valve covers and it is spot less in there, so all looks good. All the injector lines were cut off so I'll need new ones, figure new new glow plugs and injectors are a must. I will need a new glow plug controler also.

Thanks for all the help and bare with me I know very little about IDI engines.
 
So i just picked up a rough old 91 Z71 getting ready to start body here this month, I'll get pics posted up pretty quick.

I have the 6.2 long block sitting in the shop, I need to know where to go to get parts for this hoss. I know I need injectors, injector lines, glow plug controller and glow plugs, head gaskets, intake gaskets, bearings, turbo and ???? I'm sure other stuff, I've checked Heath's site but he doesn't have much info on there. I need prices and info

I want absolute reliablity here so I need to replace the injection pump, what else should be changed? I apologize for needing this spelled out likes this but I am clueless with this motor any and all help is greatly appreciated
 
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