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506 build up arp head studs, .010 thicker gasket, main girdle........ Pre cup questio

vegtech

vegtech

WVO Enthusiast
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Tilton, NH
IMAG0127.jpgso the Yukon broke the block and I bought a low miles hummer take out from Ted's, per advice from you peaple. Teds is verry nice to deal with by the way. I plan to remove the heads to use my arp studs from my 929 block. while apart i will install .010 thicker gaskets. I'm sure it wont drop the CR to 18:1 but at least some. I also plan to install the main studs and girdle. this should make it pretty bullet proof for what i put it through.
I also plan to rebuild my injectors with the 40hp nozzels. I am wondering if anyone has played around with the pre cups, machining them out larger. I know people desire the larger cups but has anyone taken what they have and made it larger?
 
I'm not sold on lowering the CR myself, unless running 25+ psi with a different turbo or sustained 15+ boost from your GM one no need to mess with CR, several guys running larger cups one I know of is running huge precups still in R&D mode on that one, too large a cup and you'll probaly need to tweak the program to match the precup flow.

You mention main girdle what are your thoughts on that, the flat bar kite that "tie" mains together aren't worth the $$$, 40 Hp injectors without a reflash asking for extra fuel aren't worth much either.
 
i am running Heath's GL4 chip so that should be good with the 40's right?

i dont think .010 will do much and i forgot to mention i am also doing the HX35 too.

i am not sure on the girdles that just tie the outerd together either but something is better then nothing and thats all i can find.
 
was is just the cooling set up in the hummer, cause the 506 block is used in 97 up trucks too.
 
I wouldnt mess with the cups if its already got the diamonds installed. A little larger might be beneficial if you really are going for crazy power, but to do it right is more cost and time.

I recommend taking the CR down to about 20:1 like you will be doing with a +.01 gasket, especially with the head studs and the GL4 and marine injectors. Where are you getting the injectors? Marine injectors will increase output at any rate, but the more its programmed to output the more benefit it provides. Plus its probably better to have the larger orifice for use with higher viscosity veggie oil, which degrades its atomization ability so I also recommend having those injectors pop pressure increased 100-200psi over stock which is 2200psi for marine injectors.

I believe that that front to back stress on the main webs will be reduced with the girdle, one like turbonator(s) make for theirs is better for rigidity, and likely better spent money to have a machine shop make over the DSG kind.
 
H2's used to crack the #8 cylinder just below the deck. They were also supposedly subject to the same crank, head and block issues as the 97-2000 506 blocks in the truck line.

"Redesign" after mid 2000 is reported to have resolved that issue.

Although, I've seen a post 2000 block "up the road" with a circumferential crack in the #8 cylinder just below the fire deck...

P400 is the real solution to the 6.5 structural issues......at least they are so far.......:rolleyes5:
 
p400?

i bought the herzogs from diesel care (ebay) for $76. i do plan to bump the pop to about 2300
 
i thought the cracks in the main webs where fixed by using 10mm main studs vers the 12mm leaving more meat on the block
 
I would only use the Bosch Germany marine nozzles, not sure on quality of the knockoffs. Although if you start noticing effects after 10,000 miles or so you can always rebuild them.
 
i read alot of good things about the herzog's pensacole sells them and said they have great results. Herzog is a german company as well and the most all geman stuff seems quality
 
oh.... the ad says German made. oh well its cheep monet and only a few hours to rebuild them again. its worth a try.
 
vegtech said:
i am running Heath's GL4 chip so that should be good with the 40's right?

i dont think .010 will do much and i forgot to mention i am also doing the HX35 too.

i am not sure on the girdles that just tie the outerd together either but something is better then nothing and thats all i can find.
Click to expand...

If you are putting on an HX35 lower the compression. I had one on my other truck and pushed out a head gasket in 4 months. It even had ARP head studs. Im in the process of rebuilding the engine right now.

So what gave way on the engine? Crank snap and took the mains with it? or just cracked and let loose?
 
great white said:
Nope. But it was a first attempt at a resolution.

The optimizer is essentially a "refined" production 6.5, but still the original design.

P400 is a different beast all together.

Good thread on a P400 install:

http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/showthread.php?t=31870
Click to expand...

we are curious as well to see what these navi cast blocks are going to yield for us brand-new-used guys...LOL and as for the 10 mm bolts on the early 506 blocks, its a joke and a poor attempt by GM to try to appease people by giving them something different.....
the main caps were not even changed from 12mm to 10 mm and they just used inserts in the blocks.... imagine all the main caps floppin around all loose with 10 mm bolts in 12mm holes...
its no wonder the 506 cast blocks are all full of cracks....
 
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