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4x4 Chevy 6.5 turbo diesel van project.

No idea for li-on source. I like them because they are light years beyond all other batteries BUT, fireproof cabinet- 1/16" (16 gauge) steel wall enclosure. Only buys you 1 minute to escape- it will burn right through it. Look up fire proof safes as example.

If it is a sealed unit after the fire starts and burns the thermal link used to keep ventilation doors open so they shut automatically when fire starts then you might get away with something that thin. On break at work now, I can try to find video showing enclosures tonight if you want.

Nothing is dangerous when built properly.
 
yeah the build has all kinds of options. For instance you can use fireproof insulation on the top and sides of the enclosure as well. you can double layer the top and sides too. though I am suspicious that their burn is a chemical reaction that does not need oxygen. If that is the case you need vents to, well, vent the explosion. I haven't heard of a tesla wall catching fire though. I have heard of some cars, very few, catching fire. Some of those had sustained damage prior to the fire. Those batteries have lots of protections built in so I would think malfunctions would be pretty rare.
 
Yeah I heard about those but I believe they are made somewhat differently then vehicle and other batteries. Same material but perhaps no the same safety measures.
 
First- I am a fan of Tesla cars and when the waiting list goes away would buy one of the model 3 units in a heartbeat if they would improve the firewall like they are talking about. But Oh yeah- them suckers burn to the ground with a quickess.


http://www.nbcnews.com/business/autos/tesla-under-fire-after-explosive-crash-n722541

https://www.usatoday.com/story/mone...sion-fire-were-factors-crash-deaths/97641474/

I could spend all day posting links. On the tesla forum I followed for a couple months they put the number over 100. They go up so fast, some even without a wreck, just like a fluke and WHAMO!!! You are engulfed. Faster than gasoline drenched interior. If you find the one vide where the guy is doing a burnout on the Las Vegas Strip in front of the MGM, I am the guy that sprayed down the driver with the fire extinguisher in that. No time to escape- that guy swore he will never again wear a seatbelt.

Believe me when I say you need a fireproof box that once the fire starts it seals air tight to starve the oxygen. Li-on does not generate its own oxygen. It will arc flash, and the molten metal ignites anything around it. Rethink your insulation- i worked with furnaces with the highest rated insulation made- an arc flash will ignite it.
 
Thin fire brick. :)
They definitly need to fix that problem. I thought it was caused by heat buildup and they had little fuses for each battery to prevent it. Perhaps the battery compartment needs sealed with water cooling and co2 as the gas inside.
 
I believe if any car company solves it, tesla will br the one. It isn't just them, all the electric cars are having the issues.

As for what to use, just the steel. There is nothing you can do at this point to stop the fires once they get going, it is about buying time to stop the car and get out before being injured or killled.
 
From what limited knowledge I have about lithium batteries . . IIRC, there are actually different chemistries to them even though all of them get the generic label as lithium. Some chemistry combinations will burn when they fail and some have a low likelihood of a burning (where the only real risk is if something arcs to the battery which is no different than any other electric storage element). Another focus area of lithium storage (all chemistries) is capping the charge to something like 80% of its capacity as taking it above that can lead to issues (example: the hoverboards).

One thing the lithium battery is not good at is producing current when cold (IIRC 20F and lower). Learned this when I looked into converting the Burb over to lithium batteries.

Only real down-side to lithium I am seeing at the moment is the thin market due to up-front cost. Really would prove nice if lithium got wider adoption so that the marketplace starts offering turn-key solutions rather than having to figure out all the necessary parts by way of hobby forums.
 
Will L. said:
I believe if any car company solves it, tesla will br the one. It isn't just them, all the electric cars are having the issues.
As for what to use, just the steel. There is nothing you can do at this point to stop the fires once they get going, it is about buying time to stop the car and get out before being injured or killled.
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Like the old magnesium wheels. Once those got going there was no stopping them. Saw a collision once involving a sports car with magnesium wheels. I was about 9 years old. It was on some foggy pass and both cars were mashed together somehow because there was just one big pile of ash with an axle sticking out here and there. And 3 bodies covered in white sheets on the ground. My dad figured one of the cars based on something he saw. Burned fiberglass that still held some of its shape no doubt. I never forgot that. Before airbags of course.

Tesla is an awesome company and I believe they can do anything if they try. They sure shook up the auto industry in this country.
 
consaka said:
Tesla is an awesome company and I believe they can do anything if they try. They sure shook up the auto industry in this country.
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Not convinced that they are playing by the regulations that the rest of the auto industry has a requirement to follow. So, it is easy to shake things up when deciding not to follow the rules. Just say-in ;)

Do agree that they have a lot of promise :)
 
You should check Go Lithium batteries out . Different design and light weight . 8 lbs for a race car . 16 volts .
 
How aggravating is waiting? :banghead: I'm almost out of time and just got informed that my injection pump from the east coast won't be here till the 15th. rats. deep breath. guess I'll just work on shimming some new injector nozzles. Turbonator brothers say 2400 psi. That means I should do 2500 right? lol You know for the springs to relax some.
 
2400 was their happy spot? Makes me fel good about mine at 2350 as my target. That was our happiest range. I always balance to with 25 psi of each other- so I would do 2350 to 2375. Always kinda wished I could get a digital gauge and a way to get exact.
 
It is very time consuming. My unit is a manual cheapy I got somewhere. It is impossible to read as fine as you got. I think each mark is 100 with 2000 and 3000 being the numbered ones. Ideally my gauge would read from 1500 to 3000 full sweep. I also could use some .05 shims but .1 is my smallest and I think those are in mm.
I test the old injectors first and find it amazing the different ranges and how most of them are pissing a little stream out sideways. In all of the old injectors the pintles are stuck tight and it amazes me they squirt at all.
I think if you did this enough you could get it down to two tries.
One thing I notice with the marine nozzles is how much easier it seems to be to pull the handle. Even at higher pop pressures. Just seems to work easier.
So I notice that pressure will build to a point and then drop off as the injector injects. which point do you set for? The opening point or the spray point? If it cracks at 2500 I notice it generally sprays at 23 or 24. Hard to tell because of the chatter but its in there somewhere. Maybe I need a glycerin gauge.
 
consaka said:
How aggravating is waiting? :banghead: I'm almost out of time and just got informed that my injection pump from the east coast won't be here till the 15th. rats. deep breath. guess I'll just work on shimming some new injector nozzles. Turbonator brothers say 2400 psi. That means I should do 2500 right? lol You know for the springs to relax some.
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Are you going to be running a DB2 or a DS4 pump?
 
n8in8or said:
Are you going to be running a DB2 or a DS4 pump?
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It will be a db2 moose pump. If I don't like it I will just swap the one out of my current engine. It is a DB4 pump and I really like the way it has run. Might turn it up a bit if I do that. Though those pumps are more of a pain to turn up. I really like the Schweitzer turbo too but can't find one i'd swear was the same. It has no wastegate which is important for it to fit.
 
consaka said:
It will be a db2 moose pump. If I don't like it I will just swap the one out of my current engine. It is a DB4 pump and I really like the way it has run. Might turn it up a bit if I do that. Though those pumps are more of a pain to turn up. I really like the Schweitzer turbo too but can't find one i'd swear was the same. It has no wastegate which is important for it to fit.
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Ok. My injectors were popped to 2500 and I had some hot start problems with my Moose that weren't there with my DS4. I brainstormed with Conestoga and came up to the conclusion that it was the high pop pressure. I just recently dropped my pop pressure to 1800 (yes 1800). I am still compiling my data so I can do a thorough comparison, but I can tell you there pretty much isn't a difference on the dyno between 1800 and 2500. I have yet to have a day hot enough to see if it took care of the hot start problem though. I think I would go a touch lower than 2400 if I were you, but I don't know how low, sorry. 2200? 2100? 2300? Dunno. Sorry that's all the help I can be, but hot start issues are no fun and I'd rather not see you struggle with that and have to pull your injectors and have them repopped. I will post my data once it's compiled - hopefully a week or so. I hope that helps.
 
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