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4x4 ABS

Sunshine

Sunshine

Northern Lights
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Oslo-Norway
Hi... could someone tell me the proper method to bleed the brakes with a ABS system...thanks for your help....

/Paul
 
Have someone pump the pedal a few times and hold it down while someone else opens the bleeder. repeat until you don't get any air..
 
Yep, with a Tech-2 Scanner. Sorry, couldn't resist, but had the same problem, so went to a shop (which I trust) and had it done there.

Cu,
Sven
2
 
DEERE3594 said:
Have someone pump the pedal a few times and hold it down while someone else opens the bleeder. repeat until you don't get any air..
Click to expand...


thats how i did it when i had to replace my rear brake line. worked fine for me. the hardest part was getting the bleeders to cooperate but they did.
 
DEERE3594 said:
Have someone pump the pedal a few times and hold it down while someone else opens the bleeder. repeat until you don't get any air..
Click to expand...

``That`s smart so you don`t do any thing your self.... sorry Justin i just saw the funny side of it....

/Paul
 
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Thank`s for all the ad-vice...spoke to Todd at Bill H`s once he said "the ABS are very delicate & when you change the pads i was best to open the bleeder instead of pushing in the brake calliper as done in the old days"

/Paul

PS..sounds like my first date to me...
 
Kartoon said:
mityvac handheld bleeder works wonders. and very affordable!
Click to expand...

That is same one I'm talking about, part stores have them, Sears has em, Harbor Freight has knock off copies of em, open bleeder at each wheel cylinder or caliper attach hose, pull vac fluid & air pulled & captured in the resevoir on the vac pump,pulls old fluid as well so you have clean fresh through out the system,
 
Dieseldad97 said:
Can one not open all bleeders and just let er drip till there is no air left in the system?
Click to expand...
May still be a pocket of air depending where the bleeder screw is, mity vac et als is best way IMO, or 2 guys doing pump & bleed way that has been around forever, can take a LONG time to pump & bleed, if system was totally dry, also if the master cyl went dry, not a bad idea to remove it & bench bleed it.
 
Thanks TD & Kartoon... if i can`t get one here i`ll see if i can get one sent over....
Have a nice summer all & take care....

/Paul
 
Common knowledge, but thought I might remind, start bleeding with the caliper(or wheel cylinder) furthest from the master cylinder. Right rear on ours I believe.
 
The Mity-Vac works okay (I used one for years), but you have to put grease on the bleeder threads, and even then you might be pulling air bubbles past the threads, making it hard to determine if you have all the air out of the system.

It's much easier with the Motive power bleeder ( http://www.motiveproducts.com/ ). Plus with this set-up, you don't have to keep stopping to add fluid to the master - you put a bottle or two into the power bleeder, pressurize, and it automatically adds fluid to the master as you're bleeding - truely a one-man operation.
 
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