4L80E trans question

[Paul McDaniel]

Howdy folks, I've seen some posts pertaining to this transmission, and mine is acting strangely, consequently, I have some questions for anyone that can offer some advice/wisdom.

Here are the particulars of the vehicle:

- 1993 22' Class C RV on Chevy G30 one ton van chassis; fully loaded weight is approximately 9,000-10,000 lbs.
- Original 350 ci motor that was replaced approximately three years ago with a remanufactured 350 motor built with some moderate performance upgrades.
- 4L80E automatic trans. Trans has main D selection, then three lower drive gears that can be manually shifted into from the column.
- This vehicle was purchased new by my father in early 1994; the transmission has been regularly serviced over the years, and this is the first issue of any kind I've had with it; it was handed down to me in 2007. A total replacement with a remanufactured trans appears to be in the 4,000-$5,000 range.

Transmission issue occurring:

- Trans intermittently will not automatically shift past the first Drive gear while in "D."
- When this occurs, I can stop the vehicle, shift into Park, turn off the engine for a few minutes, restart the engine, put the vehicle in D, and away I go, the trans working perfectly. I drove the vehicle to Daytona a few weeks ago for the Daytona 500 and this issue occurred twice on the trip, but it made it back to Texas fine, but is doing the same thing again now.......again intermittently. A "check engine" light also comes on intermittently, but not necessarily when the transmission isn't functioning properly.
- I've taken the vehicle to two different trans shops here in Austin, Texas, and both believe it is not a mechanical trans problem.
- Both shops computer checked and the codes that come up include:

82, Quad drive module, "A" SSA 1-2;
81, Quad drive module, "B" SSB 2-3;
32, EGR;
43, ESC module

And, one of the computer checks indicated there may be a wiring issue.

- Where are the two trans modules located and can a severe novice like me replace these?
- How much, generally speaking, do these modules cost?
- I'm not sure if the vehicle has a trans cooler. Would you recommend one for a vehicle of this weight?

Thanks for any input, I appreciate it!

Paul

 

[MrMarty51]

Welcome to the forum Paul.
I know nothing about transmissions, I do know that bad or poor ground connections can cause lots of problems. It did on My truck.
On the pickup style of vehicles, there is three ground wires nutted down to the back of the right side cylinder head. They most likely might be attached to the same area on the van too.
Look for those ground wires, after You find them, remove the bolt or nut holding them down, shine them to a state of being bright and shiny then attach them back down after shining up the stud and the nut, then see how it performs.

 

[Paul McDaniel]

Marty, I appreciate the quick response. Very helpful and certainly worth a look and a try. Anything beginning with “free” is a great first option. I’ll keep you posted as to the result of this attempt.
Make it a great weekend!
Paul

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

Howdy folks, I've seen some posts pertaining to this transmission, and mine is acting strangely, consequently, I have some questions for anyone that can offer some advice/wisdom.

Here are the particulars of the vehicle:

- 1993 22' Class C RV on Chevy G30 one ton van chassis; fully loaded weight is approximately 9,000-10,000 lbs.
- Original 350 ci motor that was replaced approximately three years ago with a remanufactured 350 motor built with some moderate performance upgrades.
- 4L80E automatic trans. Trans has main D selection, then three lower drive gears that can be manually shifted into from the column.
- This vehicle was purchased new by my father in early 1994; the transmission has been regularly serviced over the years, and this is the first issue of any kind I've had with it; it was handed down to me in 2007. A total replacement with a remanufactured trans appears to be in the 4,000-$5,000 range.

Transmission issue occurring:

- Trans intermittently will not automatically shift past the first Drive gear while in "D."
- When this occurs, I can stop the vehicle, shift into Park, turn off the engine for a few minutes, restart the engine, put the vehicle in D, and away I go, the trans working perfectly. I drove the vehicle to Daytona a few weeks ago for the Daytona 500 and this issue occurred twice on the trip, but it made it back to Texas fine, but is doing the same thing again now.......again intermittently. A "check engine" light also comes on intermittently, but not necessarily when the transmission isn't functioning properly.
- I've taken the vehicle to two different trans shops here in Austin, Texas, and both believe it is not a mechanical trans problem.
- Both shops computer checked and the codes that come up include:

82, Quad drive module, "A" SSA 1-2;
81, Quad drive module, "B" SSB 2-3;
32, EGR;
43, ESC module

And, one of the computer checks indicated there may be a wiring issue.

- Where are the two trans modules located and can a severe novice like me replace these?
- How much, generally speaking, do these modules cost?
- I'm not sure if the vehicle has a trans cooler. Would you recommend one for a vehicle of this weight?

Thanks for any input, I appreciate it!

Paul

Ok, lets start by getting the correct codes listed.
Code 32 is for EGR system failure which means the ECM has detected a problem in the EGR wiring circuit.
Code 43 is for your knock sensor. I don't recall if 93 had a electronic spark control(ESC) module or if it ran straight to the ECM, but code 43 is set if there is a knock sensor problem, or if equipped, an ESC problem.
Code 81 is for your transmission, 2-3/B shift solenoid circuit error.
Code 82 is also for your transmission, 1-2/A shift solenoid circuit error.

This will probably sound weird, but check ALL of your ECM grounds, but setting both shift solenoid codes is normally a sign of a failing ignition switch, or loss of power to the transmission. And the EGR and ESC codes could also be from a loss of keyed 12 volts power.

 

[Paul McDaniel]

Very helpful Sir, and I really appreciate your time with such a great response! I'm having a bit of a hard time finding a mechanic that wants to deal with these issues, but one will make themselves known soon I'm sure of it.

Best regards,

Paul

 

[MrMarty51]

Very helpful Sir, and I really appreciate your time with such a great response! I'm having a bit of a hard time finding a mechanic that wants to deal with these issues, but one will make themselves known soon I'm sure of it.

Best regards,

Paul

Thats one reason most of us has taken to repairing our own vehicles.
If You want to fire the parts cannon at it, use the ignition switch as the first shot. The Ferm is usually quite accurate with His diagnosis.

Installing a new ignition switch is not a terrible job, having a book to fall back onto is the best money spent.

Next best money spent is with getting A/C Delco parts.

 

[Paul McDaniel]

Marty, I love getting my hands dirty when I think I can reasonably complete the task. I’m handy, but certainly no mechanic. However, I do not have a shop manual for a 1993 Chevy G30 van. That’s going to be my first “investment” later this week. Once again, I really appreciate everyones responses. This is a great forum. I already understand much more than I did a week ago.

Paul

 

[dbrannon79]

Welcome to the forum Paul. sounds like your in my neck of the woods, not too far from my little town!

the ignition switch will be located on the top side down on the column with a rod that goes up to the key cylinder at the steering wheel. most newer vehicles have them combined where the key is at. it's just a matter of pulling the lower panel under the column, then there are two bug nuts up in there from the bottom side holding the column into the dash. pull those and the column will drop where you can see and access the switch. on some occasions the switch screws are slotted and sometimes come loose where the switch starts sliding around. iirc there is also a dimmer switch for the headlights there as well with another rod. it will need to be adjusted on the slots the screws are in once loosened.

 

[Paul McDaniel]

D, this is helpful as well, very helpful, and I appreciate it. I think I'll certainly start with the ignition switch and see what happens.

I've got in-laws that live between New Berlin and La Vernia, so I know your area.

Best,

Paul

 

[Husker6.5]

@Paul McDaniel You don't need any sort of special manual, just the Chilton/Haynes manual for that model year series of Chevy van will cover everything you need to know to do just about everything to it.

 

[Paul McDaniel]

Thanks Husker, I was just able to pick up a used manual on EBay for $20.00. It covers the G30 van from 1968 to 1995; mines a 1993 G30 chassis. Given the difficulty I've had in finding someone willing to work on a small RV, it's clear that I'm going to have to start doing some of the simpler items myself. Best regards and thanks very much for your advise, I really appreciate it. Paul

 

[MrMarty51]

Thanks Husker, I was just able to pick up a used manual on EBay for $20.00. It covers the G30 van from 1968 to 1995; mines a 1993 G30 chassis. Given the difficulty I've had in finding someone willing to work on a small RV, it's clear that I'm going to have to start doing some of the simpler items myself. Best regards and thanks very much for your advise, I really appreciate it. Paul

As You go along, You will find that even some of the more difficult mechanical tasks will become easier.
For each item needing attention, read the pertinent section thoroughly all the way through, until You fully understand what the book is telling You that needs to be done, then start the procedure, one step atta time.
It will get easier.

 

[Husker6.5]

@Paul McDaniel you can also ask us, some of the members on here had 6.2/6.5 powered vans. I owned an '84 G20 conversion van that I yanked the wheezing 130 HP 5.0 gasser out of and dropped a built 327 large journal 4-bolt main that I built for it, that put out an easy 300-310 HP and made the van a FAR more drivable Interstate cruiser and trailer hauler with the 700R4 in it.

 

[Paul McDaniel]

Husker, I replaced the original 350 ci about 3-4 years ago. That motor had about 93,000 miles on it, and although ran fine, was just flat tired and had maybe 200-225 horses; big hills were a big problem. Those 1993 heads were just horrible.
It was a two bolt main motor with throttle body injection. The new motor is also a 350, four bolt main, with an upgraded RV cam, flat top pistons and better heads. The original intake manifold was left in the new motor, and the original TBI was honed out. The new motor is running somewhere around 300 horses. However, it still isn't enough power for mountain travel. I'm ultimately going to LS swap it as I plan to keep the vehicle for a long time. Since it was a hand-me-down from my parents, the upgrade costs have been reasonable, and I was able to remodel the interior myself; I also did the exterior bedliner. Lots of folks think it's an urban assault vehicle.

 

[dbrannon79]

Lots of folks think it's an urban assault vehicle.

Down here in south Texas, it fits right in. I wish I would see more vehicles like this out n about along with some more humvees. I have only seen one older camo green military hummer that occasionally runs around town. lol I have seen idiots driving near it on the road scramble to get out of it's way too! it's a wide body that takes up almost all of it's lane

 

[Husker6.5]

@Paul McDaniel I took my upgraded motor -- 1971 4-bolt main 350 truck block, .030 over, single hump heads, 307 crank to destroke it to a 327, .030 over TRW 9.5:1 forged 327 pistons, H-beam rods, Erson TQ-20H torque cam, Manley hi-flo stainless valves, springs and retainers reworked Q-Jet on an Edelbrock Performer manifold, 14"x3" tall K&N air filter in a pickup truck filter housing with a modified (enlarged) snorkle with a modified warm air butterfly (enlarged) connected by 4" flexduct to a custom ram air scoop I made cut into the leading edge of the hood above the grille for a ram-air effect at driving speed and cold air intake instead of from under the doghouse like stock. Pertronix 50K volt distributor, Accel shorty header U-gap plugs and Accel wires and a set of Hedman headers dumping into dual 2¼" in/out Flomasters and side dumping behind each rear tire -- and drove it up the highest paved road in North America, Colorado Hwy 5, to the parking lot at 14,100', just below the 14,265' summit of Mt. Evans. The steep part of the ascent, mainly from approximately 13,000' to the summit parking lot, was mostly in second gear of the 700R4 and around 3800 rpm, dropping down to 1st when negotiating the hairpins. Pulled like a mofo up to the parking lot with a slight blackish haze from the exhausts! Now, when I got out with the kids, I DID notice liquid dripping from the exhaust tips and my nose told me it was unburned gasoline - the jets and metering rods were maximized for my home altitude of about 1,200' for power on WOT and economy Interstate cruising at 75 in OD. My '84 G20 Conversion van (it had a rear 6 person U dinette that made into a Queen bed and two midships Captain swivel chairs) had a 3.07 Posi rear-end and ran 235/75-15 XL tires on it.

 

[Paul McDaniel]

Sounds like meanness in a small engine package!

 

[Paul McDaniel]

PS: can anyone recommend an automatic transmission, besides the 4L80E, that is affordable, very heavy duty, reliable, and suitable for a class C RV that weighs about 10,000 pounds fully loaded? It could be connected to my current Chevy 350 motor, or an LS motor in the future.

 

[MrMarty51]

PS: can anyone recommend an automatic transmission, besides the 4L80E, that is affordable, very heavy duty, reliable, and suitable for a class C RV that weighs about 10,000 pounds fully loaded? It could be connected to my current Chevy 350 motor, or an LS motor in the future.

I think Quad Star Tuning was working on a auto transmission, something like a 6L90E or some such. I think it is a six speed and I believe He has a controller of some kind to back it up.
He put it together to mate to the 6.5 TD engine.

 

[dbrannon79]

if not the 6l90e, since going with a LS motor, you'll be using a newer obd2 ecm to control it. @THEFERMANATOR can tell you best, but I believe I have heard others running an Allison tranny but you'll need to have someone like Quadstar to tune the ecm to control the tranny.