• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

4L80E interchange,2000 into 2002?

Welcome to the forum @Reacher120 iirc the 2000 and 02 should be the same. only thing you'll have to watch for is the tail shaft housing length. make sure that is the same so you don't need to swap out driveshafts. also be careful that one isn't a 4l85e or 90e trans. the 4l85's were more common in the newer rigs and both physically look the same. run the vin number with a GM dealer parts house to verify the RPO codes for the trans.
 
I think that @THEFERMANATOR stopped coming in because He seemed to be called on a lot about transmission innerchange and whut fitz whut. Dang I miss seeing that guy post and his knowledge and wisdom on such matters.

Welcome to the Forum 120 and there is still a lot of knowledge in this forum about transmission interchange, what fits what and what has to be done to make the different transmissions fit into what types of units.
 
Thanks for the welcome. Looks like this forum is geared toward Diesel owners, many seem to have the 4L80e Transmissions.
Please forgive this long post.
My transmission knowledge is limited, replacing filters and fluids, and pull and replace. Looking at a vehicle that had fluids and filter changed, was shifting fine, has now sat for 3 years. Starting up after almost 3 years, shifts are soft, feels like slippage into top 2 gear ranges; worst of all, making a "noise" like something rubbing on the drive line under acceleration. Gets up to Highway speed, no noises at cruising, good solid shifts manually in low/2, 3 seems slow.
Can just sitting gum up the works to cause these problems?
Gummed up Torque Converter?
Curious side symptoms:
Gear Indicator on dash is not working/illuminated
Previously working ( according to previous owner) Alternator not charging,was working prior to sitting.
My suspicion is that a jumper was hooked up backwards after sitting to start, and blew diodes in the alternator.
Is it possible (if that happened) it could have damaged some shift solenoid or something else in the trans?

I have a known good 4L80e trans available to swap from a 2000 Express 3500, but "someone" said a 2002 year Express 3500
is somehow all by itself. ??
If tail shafts are different, how big a job to swap?
Have my serial numbers of the 2002, going this morning to get numbers from 2000.
Who other than Forum members can verify this interchange?

Every Rebuilder I've contacted just wants to sell me a rebuilt unit (Spendy, can't blame them).
I've rebuilt many engines since 1970, never messed with AT's.
Now on SS, tying to save a buck. Hoping for a "Hail Mary" with either a flush/fluid/filter change, or used swap if it will fit.

Any insights would be appreciated!
Thanks,
Paul
 
dbrannon79 said:
Welcome to the forum @Reacher120 iirc the 2000 and 02 should be the same. only thing you'll have to watch for is the tail shaft housing length. make sure that is the same so you don't need to swap out driveshafts. also be careful that one isn't a 4l85e or 90e trans. the 4l85's were more common in the newer rigs and both physically look the same. run the vin number with a GM dealer parts house to verify the RPO codes for the trans.
Click to expand...
Possible 2000 donor is a slightly shorter delivery rig with a much larger diameter DL, mine has a 2 piece (15 passenger van).
I had a DL modified years ago on a different 1ton,that might be cheaper/easier than trying to swap the tailpiece??
Thoughts?
 
Reacher120 said:
Thanks for the welcome. Looks like this forum is geared toward Diesel owners, many seem to have the 4L80e Transmissions.
Please forgive this long post.
My transmission knowledge is limited, replacing filters and fluids, and pull and replace. Looking at a vehicle that had fluids and filter changed, was shifting fine, has now sat for 3 years. Starting up after almost 3 years, shifts are soft, feels like slippage into top 2 gear ranges; worst of all, making a "noise" like something rubbing on the drive line under acceleration. Gets up to Highway speed, no noises at cruising, good solid shifts manually in low/2, 3 seems slow.
Can just sitting gum up the works to cause these problems?
Gummed up Torque Converter?
Curious side symptoms:
Gear Indicator on dash is not working/illuminated
Previously working ( according to previous owner) Alternator not charging,was working prior to sitting.
My suspicion is that a jumper was hooked up backwards after sitting to start, and blew diodes in the alternator.
Is it possible (if that happened) it could have damaged some shift solenoid or something else in the trans?

I have a known good 4L80e trans available to swap from a 2000 Express 3500, but "someone" said a 2002 year Express 3500
is somehow all by itself. ??
If tail shafts are different, how big a job to swap?
Have my serial numbers of the 2002, going this morning to get numbers from 2000.
Who other than Forum members can verify this interchange?

Every Rebuilder I've contacted just wants to sell me a rebuilt unit (Spendy, can't blame them).
I've rebuilt many engines since 1970, never messed with AT's.
Now on SS, tying to save a buck. Hoping for a "Hail Mary" with either a flush/fluid/filter change, or used swap if it will fit.

Any insights would be appreciated!
Thanks,
Paul
Click to expand...
My friend over in Elko has a 2012 or so Dodge, cummins and auto trans.
He was working on the AC unit and disconnected the one battery, protected the cable end from shorting. Finished the task and then the transmission throwing all sorts of codes, dash lights not functioning, everything electrical screwing up. It might, or might not, start, might shift okay then seem to go into a limp mode.
He called a transmission shop in Salt Lake City, yup, bad transmission all righty, get it right in and we will fix you right up.
He telling me all this, going to rent a big uhaul to haul it over there on his trailer.
I told him, you go through every electrical circuit with a fine tooth comb. Bad grounds and bad power connections can do weird things. His reply went something like blah blah blah blah etc.
Three times on three different calls told him the same thing with the same results.
Finally he has an electrical genius friend that went over with his multimeter, started the diagnostic procedures.
Steve calls me yesterday.
You will never believe what I found, told him yes I will believe You found a faulty electrical connector. You are right. The nut in the stud of the main wire going into the underhood fuse box was loose. With that we also found a couple other loose connections. I think someone sabatogued my truck. The fuse for the antilock brake system had also been removed. Thats very possible I replied. The sodium delivery yard where he used to work was loaded with vengeful people, especially towards people like steve that takes no crap from no one, and, he was a delivery OTR driver and a part time mechanic for them.
His transmission now shifts perfectly, and his antilock brake system woke up.
So, check each and every electrical connection under the hood and within the cab. Positives and grounds and You just might not need a transmission.
Oh yeah, this incident I’m talking of has been in going for about a week. It was yesterday He called with the good news that his transmission was not the fault.
YUP, shove that new transmission in there, then spend a fortune at that shop while they research the real problem why the transmission does not function as it should.
 
Great advice @MrMarty51 bad grounds and faulty connections can cause a multitude of oddities even in older rigs. Just a suggestion @Reacher120 while checking all the electrical system, get you a good multi-meter and a GM service manual with diagrams for your rig. Measuring in milli-volt and impedance between connections is a good way to locate faulty grounds and connections.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Great advice @MrMarty51 bad grounds and faulty connections can cause a multitude of oddities even in older rigs. Just a suggestion @Reacher120 while checking all the electrical system, get you a good multi-meter and a GM service manual with diagrams for your rig. Measuring in milli-volt and impedance between connections is a good way to locate faulty grounds and connections.
Click to expand...
And that was how Steve over in Elko was able to find His faulty connections.
He has that mechanic friend that really knows his way around using a multimeter and understands the readings and signals.
If I have such a problem it is mostly by accident that I find the fault. For some reason I have never been able to figure out what the multimeter is telling Me unless it is a dead short or a broke wire.
 
using a multi-meter it's fairly simple to do measuring a voltage drop over a wire from the main connection to the next connection. you can test with no power by reading in the resistance mode or when power is on, using the milli-volt setting. one probe at the main contact and the other probe on the other end of the same wire wherever it goes to.

there is a chart to go off from on wire size and length to the acceptable resistance value, but on things like battery cables and heavier wires I go looking for anything over 0.00 resistance reading as a problem.

When the power is on, sometimes looking for a difference in voltage from one point to another can be an indication. on the voltage setting with one lead on the main contact, the other on a ground (or hot if testing a ground wire) take not of the reading, then move the probe that's on the main contact to the next contact where that wire ends and take note of the reading, subtract to get the diference. this method really only works when there is a load on the wire though. an example is checking the output on the alternator. testing voltage at the back of the alt, then taking another reading at the main contact to the fuse box. if there is more than 2 volts difference, then there is an issue. can be too small of a wire or a bad connection.

using the milli-volt setting you can test the same way as testing for resistance with the power on. the lower the reading the better same as reading resistance but using voltage in the .000 range. I think there is a guide for what you should see for sizes of wire and distances with this method too.
 
If both the 2000 and 2002 both use the same style output yoke(bolt on or slip) then you're good to go. The only difference between a mid 99 to 02 behind a 5.7l is the style output yoke it used, but iirc vans mostly all came with the slip yoke. The kicker part is both style shafts have the same stickout and are both drilled & threaded, but the splines and step are different.
 
Thanks for all the replies!
2000 donor 4L80e was a successful install, 30 test miles so far.
In checking Trans fluid level, It seems the dipstick is "bottoming out' about 1, 1-1/2" before red locking tab is seated.
I tried a Chevy dealer (giving last 8#'s of the VIN), but all they can tell me is the "package length" of a OEM replacement,
They can't verify dipstick length. $56 and two week delivery time.
Any one out there with a 2002 12 passenger Express with a 5.7 liter, that could verify the exposed metal length or overall
dimensions?
That would be very helpful!
I think the Trans was overfilled when we purchased.
Side note: I've seen some pretty nasty/ burnt AT fluid over the years, but It sure looked like the teen aged sons who were working on the PO van had added regular engine oil to the trans. during a filter change not long before we purchased.
We drove it about 20 miles home; Shifting got progressively worse as we went.
When we swapped, I pulled the pan on the original; very clean inside, no visible "pieces" or meta fragments in the pan or on the magnet, But fluid looked like dirty engine oil and did not smell like straight Trans fluid.
Engine oil and filter had just been changed.

Thoughts?
Is it possible the original Trans may be Salvageable if that was the case?
Thanks in advance!








"
"
"
 
a buddy of mine has a 03 3500 express van with a 6.0. we possibly may be parting it out. if I get a chance I will go out there and measure the dipstick length.

I know this might be a pain in the arse but you could possibly get a tube and stick from a pickup out if the pick a part yard, pull the dog house in the van and install the pickup's tube. check and verify the level is at the full mark. then put back the van tube and see where the level shows. then take a scribe and mark that stick on the back side where the level should be, cut the end off so the stick will go in all the way.

what I am thinking is if you swapped in another trans. the pan on the van unit was deeper and why the stick is bottoming out too soon.
 
Thanks for the reply.
The pans are identical.
I picked up a dipstick from a 2000 with a 6.0l and the same trans. it is slightly shorter but still feels like it is bottoming out.
The only way I'm going to be certain is order a new one from the dealer for $56 using the last 8 numbers of the VIN, unless I can find someone with the same year (and 5.7l) in an Express or Savannah that can measure for me!
I hate driving it with a possible incorrect fluid level.
2 weeks out from the dealer!

On a separate note, I am not finding much info on Front seat interchanges or compatible interior swaps.
The pedestals are surely taller, but there must be others seats that will bolt on!
 
Reacher120 said:
Thanks for the reply.
The pans are identical.
I picked up a dipstick from a 2000 with a 6.0l and the same trans. it is slightly shorter but still feels like it is bottoming out.
The only way I'm going to be certain is order a new one from the dealer for $56 using the last 8 numbers of the VIN, unless I can find someone with the same year (and 5.7l) in an Express or Savannah that can measure for me!
I hate driving it with a possible incorrect fluid level.
2 weeks out from the dealer!

On a separate note, I am not finding much info on Front seat interchanges or compatible interior swaps.
The pedestals are surely taller, but there must be others seats that will bolt on!
Click to expand...
Do you have the part number to search with?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top